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I did a search for "Pressed in engine block coolant bungs" and got nothing.
i did a Google search and just swapped out "bungs" for "nipple" and i found that there is such a thing as a pipe/nipple extractor. i saw on a Mustang forum where someone use it to remove one from an engine block.
I did a search for "Pressed in engine block coolant bungs" and got nothing.
They're metric, I've pulled them out and re-installed them. You can tap the hole after removal for a thread in bung.
I noticed that they are available from Mazda for the RX8:
04-11 RX8 Rear Cast Iron Heater Outlet Coolant Pipe (N3H1-10-C71)
There are also a few posts on this heater outlet pipe on the RX8Club.com forum.
It's been a couple productive days in the shop. Received the new bearing plate from Atkins on Monday just as they had predicted. On Tuesday, installed the new bearing plate and new Torrington bearings with the original "Y" spacer. The "Y" spacer thickness is 8.04mm or 0.3165". Using dial indicator the end play was one-thousandth of an inch, if even that. Spec is 0.0015-0.0028 inch. Not knowing what spacer was in my engine, I had bought a couple different thickness spacers, just in case. According to past posts, most 13B engines had commonly used a "V" spacer. This time, I replaced my "Y" spacer with a "K" spacer as well as replaced the thrust plate and washer next to the counterweight, since I had already bought these items. The "K" spacer thickness is 8.06mm or 0.3173". Dial indicator reading were as follows:
So, we are slightly under two-thousandths inch. Now, we are within the spec, which is 0.0015-0.0028 inch. Now we can install the oil pump sprocket and chain, o-ring with Teflon backup washer and then the front cover. Finally, we check the e-shaft protrusion to insure that a Torrington bearing hadn't slipped off the spacer.
We are under 2 mm, which is good. Spec for e-shaft protrusion is 2.44 mm or 0.0961" maximum. So, we can install the front hub and torque her down to spec, which is 80-98 lb-ft.
So, now we are on the road to wrapping up this job. Still need to reinstall the water pump assembly, oil pan and all the remaining accessories. Still a lot of work remains, but the end of forest is in sight. Hopefully, another couple to few days and we will try bringing this rotary back to life.
Made some good progress in the shop today. Installed a new oil pan that I bought several years ago.
Used Toyota Seal Packing 103 as a sealant for the pan. The Toyota Seal had excellent reviews on the web. It turns into a pliable rubber after it cures.
Also, installed a new Mazda water pump that I bought several years ago.
Piecing it together, my rotary is starting to look like an engine again.
Will begin installing the accessories tomorrow. Hopefully, will try to fire her up by this weekend or early next week at the latest.
Attempted to crank the engine to build build oil pressure after removing the leading plugs and EGI fuse. Battery was dead after sitting nearly 8 months. So, needed a booster battery to crank her. After about a minute, the oil pressure gauge was reading about 30 psi. So, we're good to go. Reinstalled the plugs, EGI fuse and cranked her over. She started right up. I let her run awhile until the thermostat opened and topped off the radiator. After reaching normal operating temperature, I saw some coolant dripping from the bottom of engine. After inspecting, I noticed one of the new Mazda spring radiator hose clamps (like the one at thermostat housing in photo) at water pump housing did not seat properly. Re-positioned clamp and leak stopped.
Readjusted the timing. On reinstall, the timing was retarded to somewhere between the red and yellow marks. Set timing to yellow mark, but need to reposition CAS by one tooth as it is at the end of adjustment slot.
Let engine run for about 30 minutes, than changed oil and filter again to purge any remaining muck (i.e., oil + water emulsion) out of the crankcase. Any suggestions on when would be best for my next oil change?
Let her run for about an hour or so to burn as much as possible of that 8 month old fuel.
Shop is closed tomorrow and Monday. Will be back Tuesday to wrap-up remaining loose ends. Expect delivery of set of plugs and fuel filter from RockAuto on Monday. Will install on Tuesday.
There's still some muck floating in the cooling system. Temperature gauge was reading normal. Any suggestions on when would be best for my next coolant change?
My air pump's (AP) bearings are very noisy. Not sure if AP is putting out as required. Maybe that's why my exhaust has been stinky. Not an urgent issue as I'm no longer required to do emissions inspections, but would like to get it fixed. Any suggestions on where I can get a used AP or are the bearings replaceable?
Other than that, will let her run as long as possible to burn up that old gas and hopefully will have her back on the road on Wednesday.
Let engine run for about 30 minutes, than changed oil and filter again to purge any remaining muck (i.e., oil + water emulsion) out of the crankcase. Any suggestions on when would be best for my next oil change?
i would keep an eye on it. i would expect the water to make lots of "lung butter" and really goop up the oil filler cap as it gets heated up. but who knows.
i'd do the same for the coolant, maybe plan on changing it, or drain and refill before winter?
Attempted to crank the engine to build build oil pressure after removing the leading plugs and EGI fuse. Battery was dead after sitting nearly 8 months. So, needed a booster battery to crank her. After about a minute, the oil pressure gauge was reading about 30 psi. So, we're good to go. Reinstalled the plugs, EGI fuse and cranked her over. She started right up. I let her run awhile until the thermostat opened and topped off the radiator. After reaching normal operating temperature, I saw some coolant dripping from the bottom of engine. After inspecting, I noticed one of the new Mazda spring radiator hose clamps (like the one at thermostat housing in photo) at water pump housing did not seat properly. Re-positioned clamp and leak stopped.
Readjusted the timing. On reinstall, the timing was retarded to somewhere between the red and yellow marks. Set timing to yellow mark, but need to reposition CAS by one tooth as it is at the end of adjustment slot.
Let engine run for about 30 minutes, than changed oil and filter again to purge any remaining muck (i.e., oil + water emulsion) out of the crankcase. Any suggestions on when would be best for my next oil change?
Let her run for about an hour or so to burn as much as possible of that 8 month old fuel.
Shop is closed tomorrow and Monday. Will be back Tuesday to wrap-up remaining loose ends. Expect delivery of set of plugs and fuel filter from RockAuto on Monday. Will install on Tuesday.
There's still some muck floating in the cooling system. Temperature gauge was reading normal. Any suggestions on when would be best for my next coolant change?
My air pump's (AP) bearings are very noisy. Not sure if AP is putting out as required. Maybe that's why my exhaust has been stinky. Not an urgent issue as I'm no longer required to do emissions inspections, but would like to get it fixed. Any suggestions on where I can get a used AP or are the bearings replaceable?
Other than that, will let her run as long as possible to burn up that old gas and hopefully will have her back on the road on Wednesday.
i would keep an eye on it. i would expect the water to make lots of "lung butter" and really goop up the oil filler cap as it gets heated up. but who knows.
i'd do the same for the coolant, maybe plan on changing it, or drain and refill before winter?
That first oil change after 30 minute run time didn't seem a clean to me as I was expecting. I think the lube system is pretty much cleared out now, but we'll see. I've been usually doing oil changes at about 2500 miles. I might shorten the next oil change interval and send a sample to Blackstone Labs to see what they have to say. The cooling system contamination is less critical, but I might wait until Fall to replace the coolant. Thanks for your advice and have a great weekend!
Yeah, I ordered a new battery today from NAPA. For the last several years, I've been buying Interstate batteries from my local NTW dealer. Had the last one replaced under warranty due to a leak at the post. I stopped by NTW today inquiring about exchanging my dead battery, which is still under warranty. Didn't like the dude's rude response. After all, I've been a good paying customer. I'm done with Interstate. Interstate batteries used to be made by Johnson Controls, but now they are made Exide, which is in India. Their quality has apparently gone down hill as can be seen by their poor reviews. The battery that I ordered from NAPA is made by East Penn, which has generally very good reviews. Beware when buying a new battery.
Yeah, I ordered a new battery today from NAPA. For the last several years, I've been buying Interstate batteries from my local NTW dealer. Had the last one replaced under warranty due to a leak at the post. I stopped by NTW today inquiring about exchanging my dead battery, which is still under warranty. Didn't like the dude's rude response. After all, I've been a good paying customer. I'm done with Interstate. Interstate batteries used to be made by Johnson Controls, but now they are made Exide, which is in India. Their quality has apparently gone down hill as can be seen by their poor reviews. The battery that I ordered from NAPA is made by East Penn, which has generally very good reviews. Beware when buying a new battery.
yeah there are only like 3-4 places that make batteries in the US, they are expensive to ship.
and these days an AGM or other is not more money, so there are options
If you can put up with the car being down again, I believe that Air Pump might be serviceable. Most bearings have a number on them, if not, just hunt for ones with the same dimensions. I might have an extra buried in the basement.
If you can put up with the car being down again, I believe that Air Pump might be serviceable. Most bearings have a number on them, if not, just hunt for ones with the same dimensions. I might have an extra buried in the basement.
The car is driveable with the air pump (A/P) on it, but the A/P is a little noisy. Also, not sure it's putting out the required air volume either as my exhaust has been stinky. The A/P that's now on the car is a replacement for the original. I too still have the original A/P somewhere, if I can find it. Years ago, the bolt snapped in my A/P where the adjustment arm attaches. So, I just went on Ebay and bought a used pump. Nowadays, the S5 non-turbo A/P's are nowhere to be found. When I find my old A/P, I was planning on trying to remove the broken bolt using an extractor then installing the pump on the car, assuming it's still usable. If you can find your old one and willing to give it up, than I'd might be be tempted to take it off your hands.
The manual says 1.7 psi, I meant to service it you would have to take it off and take it apart, there's nothing in the manual about servicing them though. I will add digging through the basement for the air pump on my list, lol.
Seriously, I'll give a look for them (I think I have two).
Edit: If you can find the original one, try taking it apart and try to find the bearings, can't hurt.
The manual says 1.7 psi, I meant to service it you would have to take it off and take it apart, there's nothing in the manual about servicing them though. I will add digging through the basement for the air pump on my list, lol.
Seriously, I'll give a look for them (I think I have two).
Edit: If you can find the original one, try taking it apart and try to find the bearings, can't hurt.
The manual says 1.7 psi, I meant to service it you would have to take it off and take it apart, there's nothing in the manual about servicing them though. I will add digging through the basement for the air pump on my list, lol.
Seriously, I'll give a look for them (I think I have two).
Edit: If you can find the original one, try taking it apart and try to find the bearings, can't hurt.
I found my original air pump -- the one with the sheared off bolt. It was buried in my hatch -- exactly where I left it in Dec 2014. LOL
since its an S5, you can tee a pressure gauge into the ACV fitting and see what pressure you get.
the air pumps are all really similar 81-91, big difference are the inlet and outlet fittings, which come off
The S5 air pumps used to be a dime a dozen on Ebay, now they're nowhere to be found. Yeah, I noticed that the inlet/outlet fittings varied among different series cars. It also looks like the mounting points were different among different series cars.
Finished her up today. Installed the new NAPA battery, anti-sway bar, belly pan, etc. Had car running in shop for probably about an hour to attain normal operating temperature and to burn-off some of that old gas from last October. Set the timing, idle and TPS. Now, that I repainted the timing marks was able to set the leading timing dead-on. Trailing timing was however a a few degrees advanced. TPS was apparently off. Reset it and my stinky exhaust has seemed to have improved. Oil on dipstick look pristine. Coolant however still had some muck floating around in it when I removed the radiator cap. Guess that stands to reason since that oil muck will float to the top. Drove car locally for several for several miles. Initial drive went fine. Will drive it home tomorrow as the shop is over 35 miles from my house.
06-04-23, 09:11 PM
