HAILERS

Another clue that the Main Fuse is busted OR the feedline from it to the ignition switch is open, is to put the key to On and turn the turn signals left or right. They won't work if the Main Fuse or it's feed to the ignition switch is open.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

yeah hailers my signals don't work... okay iv'e found the line with the single black connector, and i told RRTEC that the conection to one side is bad i.e. frayed and what not... then lower it splits into to wires... can you tell me more about this?

HAILERS

That wire ties into the large wire on the alternator also. But actually, what you need to do is get a meter out and put it on that wire, OR put the meter on the large wire on the alternator. Same wire really. It should have batt voltage on it at either place.

If not, then the Main fuse is blown or the wire is *open* b/t the Main fuse and where your testing. Also the ignition switch has several connectors to it. Their about a half foot from the switch itself. One of those connectors has a pure black wire. It comes from the wires you've been looking at . It should have BATT voltage. If not, then that black wire is either open b/t the switch and the Main Fuse or the Main Fuse is blown. Main fuse is held in with two 10mm wrench size bolts.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

okay sweet, i couldn't figure why the connector was bad because it looked fine... but i knew something was wrong because i couldn't get the thing apart, so i just decided to break it apart and found out that it was super brittle... obviously in the past something must have grounded out and the main fuse didn't break... that single pin connector got fried and the liquid plastic saturated the pins ruining the connection. so i cut it out and just splice the wires together and it fired right up...

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

new problem though. After taking the car out for a bit it died... it seems like the alternator isn't charging the battery because when it died and i tried to restart it all the lights dimmed and it cranked slow and what not... what should i look for... could this have been caused from removing the single pin connector? i don't think the alt is bad because i've never had problems with it before... but i did install new pullies, and the alt had been sitting a while.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

geez, I am glad that it was temporarily fixed...lol. Check your connections to the alternator/wiring all the way there.. You are almost there..

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

okay so someone told me that sometime when you first install optima batteries they don't like to take the charge from the car... anyone heard of this

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I have run Yellow top Optima batteries.. Never had that issue.. Will the car run if it is jumped?

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

ha ha yeah man it was great for the 3 plus hours it ran!!!
how is the alternator supposed to be connected? obviously on the alt, but then where does it go? when i relocated the battery i didn't change anything with that so maybe my problem is there?

HAILERS

The alternators large output wire goes to the engine bay fuse box to feed the Main Fuse.

That same wire is spliced into the wire you just fixed.

I'd guess the battery got it's cable attached wrong for a moment and did in the alternator and the single black connector.

The only way I know of how to treat this, is to take a digital volt meter and with the key out of the ignition, see if there's batt voltage on the alternators output wire. If there is, then most likely that cable is good.

If that was good, I'd backprobe the small connector on the alternator. One wire should have batt voltage on it (key out of the ignition). Check the other wire with the key to ON, engine off, and it should have one to three volts on it.

IF both wires read right, the alternator should work. If there is no three volts DC, on that one wire, then the alternators regulator is kaput (gotta have the batt voltage on the other wire for this to be true).

What's your volt gauge in the cluster read when the engine is running?