Car won't start (searched)
#1
Sit and Spin
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Car won't start (searched)
Well, I searched for awhile and couldn't come up with anything relevant.
Here is my situation:
I just completed my s4 TII swap into a 87 GXL. The first time I tried to start the car, I had my throttle cable kinked and the car started and went to like 4000 rpm immediately. I shut the car right away!
I try the car again and it is flooded. I unflood the car by pulling the Fuel pump relay under the dash. THe car starts and dies from lack of fuel. I try this a few more times, each time when I get the relay connector re-connected, it fies immediately.
TO me it seems like as soon as the fuel pump starts pumping, the car dies.
If I try to start the car with the fuel pump relay connected, it rumbles quickly like it almost starts, then immediately floods.
Any ideas? I am thinking I either have my fuel lines connected wrong, or my injectors wired wrong.
I am going to check on these things. but if anybody has any other ideas, I would appreciate it!
Thanks!
Rob
Here is my situation:
I just completed my s4 TII swap into a 87 GXL. The first time I tried to start the car, I had my throttle cable kinked and the car started and went to like 4000 rpm immediately. I shut the car right away!
I try the car again and it is flooded. I unflood the car by pulling the Fuel pump relay under the dash. THe car starts and dies from lack of fuel. I try this a few more times, each time when I get the relay connector re-connected, it fies immediately.
TO me it seems like as soon as the fuel pump starts pumping, the car dies.
If I try to start the car with the fuel pump relay connected, it rumbles quickly like it almost starts, then immediately floods.
Any ideas? I am thinking I either have my fuel lines connected wrong, or my injectors wired wrong.
I am going to check on these things. but if anybody has any other ideas, I would appreciate it!
Thanks!
Rob
#2
drift city
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sounds like you are ontop of the solution maybe. Check your fuses and EGI relays (under the hood). Also do a full deflood...dont just pull the fuse, crank and call it good. Once you get that thing started dont let it die...it it still wont go its you fuel line. You might pull everything out and check for continunity
#3
Sit and Spin
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Checked everything and it appears that everything checks out.
I am starting to think I have too much fuel pressure. I can start the car with the fuel pump off, and then turn the fuel pump on and catch it. It will not start with the fuel pump running.
I am going to get a fuel pressure guage in-line and check my pressure. If it is too high, I think I am going to get a aftermarket FPR.
I am running a walbro with the N/A wiring in my TII swap.
P.S. I guess the motor is in pretty good shape, 110 psi all faces of the rotors, and it pulls about 25 mmHg vacuum when I rev it and let off.
I am starting to think I have too much fuel pressure. I can start the car with the fuel pump off, and then turn the fuel pump on and catch it. It will not start with the fuel pump running.
I am going to get a fuel pressure guage in-line and check my pressure. If it is too high, I think I am going to get a aftermarket FPR.
I am running a walbro with the N/A wiring in my TII swap.
P.S. I guess the motor is in pretty good shape, 110 psi all faces of the rotors, and it pulls about 25 mmHg vacuum when I rev it and let off.
#4
Sit and Spin
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One more thing
The alarm buzzer is Buzzing. It takes about 10 to 15 seconds after turning the key, and then it starts a steady buzz. None of the idiot lights are on, and all the guages look okay!
Anybody have a suggestion as to why it is buzzing? I didn't even know it worked!
Thanks!
Rob
Anybody have a suggestion as to why it is buzzing? I didn't even know it worked!
Thanks!
Rob
#5
Wiring Nightmare
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The alarm buzzer is Buzzing. It takes about 10 to 15 seconds after turning the key, and then it starts a steady buzz. None of the idiot lights are on, and all the guages look okay!
Anybody have a suggestion as to why it is buzzing? I didn't even know it worked!
Thanks!
Rob
Anybody have a suggestion as to why it is buzzing? I didn't even know it worked!
Thanks!
Rob
The sensor right on top of the radiator.
It either isnt connected or it is bad or something else in the system is bad. If you dont need it you can just ground the wire coming off the sensor and the buzzer will go away, but you will have to make sure to check your coolant level regularly.
#7
Sit and Spin
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Some fixes
Well, I tried a different upper intake manifold and throttle body, just to see if that made a difference. The car started right up with the fuel pump!!!!
Now I just have to do some final adjustments to the TPS, Timing, idle fuel mixture, and idle speed.
ANybody have a good idea on what step to complete first? It seems like when you mess with one of these items it effects the others.
As far as the buzzer goes, I tried grounding it and it still buzzes. I think I am going to remove the buzzer!
Would the buzzer go off due to removing the power steering?
Thanks!
Rob
Now I just have to do some final adjustments to the TPS, Timing, idle fuel mixture, and idle speed.
ANybody have a good idea on what step to complete first? It seems like when you mess with one of these items it effects the others.
As far as the buzzer goes, I tried grounding it and it still buzzes. I think I am going to remove the buzzer!
Would the buzzer go off due to removing the power steering?
Thanks!
Rob
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#10
I had the same buzz happen to me the other day. Come to find out my thermostat was stuck closed. I just removed it and am running around without one until I get money. I made sure my car has enough coolant and everything and it just went away.
And are your still having starting issues? Or are you fine with keeping the current upper intake and throttle body?
And idk if this would be anything, but the N/A wiring with the TII engine? Could you might have the wrong sensor hooked up? I have no clue so take my words lightly.
And are your still having starting issues? Or are you fine with keeping the current upper intake and throttle body?
And idk if this would be anything, but the N/A wiring with the TII engine? Could you might have the wrong sensor hooked up? I have no clue so take my words lightly.
#11
Sit and Spin
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Actually using the NA EM harness is MUCH easier than trying to re-wire the car for a TII harness.
There was not one wire I had to change that I can remember, except for lengthening a few!
I am not running any emissions equipment, or A/C, or power steering. I am also not using the twin scroll at this time.
So, with all of that, the only sensors that need hooked up are the same sensors as the NA. (I also don't have my knock sensor hooked up.)
There was not one wire I had to change that I can remember, except for lengthening a few!
I am not running any emissions equipment, or A/C, or power steering. I am also not using the twin scroll at this time.
So, with all of that, the only sensors that need hooked up are the same sensors as the NA. (I also don't have my knock sensor hooked up.)
#12
Wiring Nightmare
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if you grounded the wire that goes to the coolant level sensor and it still doesn't stop buzzing there must be a short in the wire somewhere.
As far as the other things you need to do are concerned, I don't think you need to do them in any specific order, but I would do them all right away.
As far as the other things you need to do are concerned, I don't think you need to do them in any specific order, but I would do them all right away.
#13
Sit and Spin
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More progress!
For the record, I am not driving the car right now. I have an Rx-8 as my DD.
I tried to set the idle on the car last night and got it to idle at a rock-steady 900 rpm. I set the timing. The timing on the leading plug was spot on! I check the timing on the trailing # 1 plug, and nothing!!!! The #1 trailing plug is not firing. I tried a different plug and wire, and it is still not firing! I guess I need to replace the coil.
Next, I was resetting the TPS (with a DMM) and realized that no matter what I did, it wouldn't adjust to the correct specs. I checked the various readings and found that it was bad.
I had already set the idle and timing when I realized this!
I changed out the TPS and adjusted it. I started the car and now it won't hold idle and does not react to the gas pedal very well (didn't before either).
DO I need to readjust everything because of the new TPS? I was thinking that if I had a bad TPS, it could have messed with my idle, but timing should stay the same.
Any ideas?
I tried to set the idle on the car last night and got it to idle at a rock-steady 900 rpm. I set the timing. The timing on the leading plug was spot on! I check the timing on the trailing # 1 plug, and nothing!!!! The #1 trailing plug is not firing. I tried a different plug and wire, and it is still not firing! I guess I need to replace the coil.
Next, I was resetting the TPS (with a DMM) and realized that no matter what I did, it wouldn't adjust to the correct specs. I checked the various readings and found that it was bad.
I had already set the idle and timing when I realized this!
I changed out the TPS and adjusted it. I started the car and now it won't hold idle and does not react to the gas pedal very well (didn't before either).
DO I need to readjust everything because of the new TPS? I was thinking that if I had a bad TPS, it could have messed with my idle, but timing should stay the same.
Any ideas?
#14
drift city
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one time I put "new" coils in and they looked cherry! I check continuity and it all was great. Popped it in and it messed my car up. It would idle at 500 and then die sometimes. Remember when doing something to your car you need to do one thing at a time and check if its making your car better or worse...if you pull off and replace 3 things your going to have a headache if one of them dont work...just a suggestion
#15
Sit and Spin
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Thanks. Those are good words of advice!
I am wondering if the coil is causing some of my problems. I am going to change it out and see what happens.
THanks again!
Rob
I am wondering if the coil is causing some of my problems. I am going to change it out and see what happens.
THanks again!
Rob
#16
Sit and Spin
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More:
Well, I have the TPS set to specs, and teh timing is dead nuts on! I have yet to replace the trailing # 1 coil.
I realized yesterday afternoon that the throttle plates are sticking slightly (alot!!!!). I am going to take the throttle body off and clean it up and see if that helps. I am wondering if this is part of my problem!
THe car idles great at 900 rpm. Everything is checking out okay, but when you hit the gas, it sputters and bogs and doesn't rev very well. I am going to see if it has something to do with the throttle plates.
I still haven't solved the buzzer problem!
Well, I have the TPS set to specs, and teh timing is dead nuts on! I have yet to replace the trailing # 1 coil.
I realized yesterday afternoon that the throttle plates are sticking slightly (alot!!!!). I am going to take the throttle body off and clean it up and see if that helps. I am wondering if this is part of my problem!
THe car idles great at 900 rpm. Everything is checking out okay, but when you hit the gas, it sputters and bogs and doesn't rev very well. I am going to see if it has something to do with the throttle plates.
I still haven't solved the buzzer problem!
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