Car wont start just an electrical click push start works though
Car wont start just an electrical click push start works though
Drove to the gym fine went to the store parked. Came out to start the car and its just an electrical click. I usually get the loud click and eventually start but it was different this time. Could it be my starter?
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 88
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From: Pensacola Florida
Easiest way to test is to find the signal wire to the starter from the ignition and see if it is getting power while the key is in the start position. If you have power to the start and signal to the starter, the starter is bad, if you are getting power and not getting signal then you either have a short in the wire, or the ignition switch went out.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 827
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From: new zealand
Hate to be that guy but Did you check your battery and alternator to see if its charging properly? And that the battery is correct for the car ie has a good enough cca rating? And check as above if all is well
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Sent from my GT-I9100 using RX7Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Check the battery post connections first.
Then start moving inward to your fuse box,and your starter connection and the ground at the engine.
..just to "show you" how important battery connections are,I was lazy..I put the battery in,put cables on,not tight..and can start the car.
Then 10 minutes later..CLICK,Click....Then starts up after about 10 clicks..Finally kicked in what I had done.
So,I know loose connection,NO Start..SO I Take the connections off,clean the posts,and connectors,put back on and TIGHTEN..starts EVERY TIME.
The starter is drawing alot of power so it needs Good contact,not just "half assed tight"..
Then start moving inward to your fuse box,and your starter connection and the ground at the engine.
..just to "show you" how important battery connections are,I was lazy..I put the battery in,put cables on,not tight..and can start the car.
Then 10 minutes later..CLICK,Click....Then starts up after about 10 clicks..Finally kicked in what I had done.
So,I know loose connection,NO Start..SO I Take the connections off,clean the posts,and connectors,put back on and TIGHTEN..starts EVERY TIME.
The starter is drawing alot of power so it needs Good contact,not just "half assed tight"..
It could be an intermittent failure of the starter, if it's not the obvious battery and cable issues.
Have someone continually tap the starter with a mallet (CAREFULLY) while you hit the key.
Have someone continually tap the starter with a mallet (CAREFULLY) while you hit the key.
Same issues ... COMPLETELY different replies.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...issue-1030865/
Here, everyone says starter and battery...my thread, everyone attacks the anti-theft.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...issue-1030865/
Here, everyone says starter and battery...my thread, everyone attacks the anti-theft.
Trending Topics
4 - clean connections
3 - sticky starter relay (anti-theft, blue plug, etc, it's all the same fix)
2 - clutch interlock switch
1 - starter brushes
1 - starter solenoid
0 - battery
0 - starter unit
Here (5 different posters):
3 - starter unit
2 - clean connections
1 - battery
0 - sticky starter
0 - clutch interlock switch
0 - starter brushes
0 - starter solenoid
You'd imagine two threads with at least 3 people exhibiting the same symptoms, would show more consistency in the diagnosis and possible causes.
Furthermore, instead of attacking my post, maybe you should recognize that it was a link for the OP to see that there's more/different diagnoses than those being posted here. smh
Last edited by Jet-Lee; Apr 3, 2013 at 05:07 PM.
This fixed my problem. S4 w/ Anti-theft is similar. Instead of the black/white wire on S4, it is Black/Green on S5. Here you go!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-896013/page5/
Specific HAILERS post.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post10714622
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-896013/page5/
Specific HAILERS post.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post10714622
Did you try to rewire the power to the solenoid as outlined in the thread I linked to? This solved my 'click,click,click,click' starter issue as well as others.
Dave007 actually made complete jumper wire. I just tied into the jumper on Blue plug in the engine bay on the drivers side near the firewall.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post10970520
I'm not saying it can't be the starter, but my starter would spin fine once it started turning, after rewiring it, starts every time.
Dave007 actually made complete jumper wire. I just tied into the jumper on Blue plug in the engine bay on the drivers side near the firewall.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post10970520
I'm not saying it can't be the starter, but my starter would spin fine once it started turning, after rewiring it, starts every time.
Originally Posted by HAILERS2
Car starts each and every time with no click, click, click....start deal.
So what I've done is remove the Radio Shack relay that I had installed previously to *fix* this problem.
Doing this I've bypassed the B/W wire from the starter cut relays plug to the connector called FE-05 in the 88 diagrams and also bypassed the B/W wire b/t the FE-05 to the starter solenoid.
I've no real idea why this works for ME. The plug called FE-05 (located below the brake master cylinder area) looks just fine and is a weather proof connector. And the B/W wire leaving it to the starter solenoid looks normal to me.
FE-05 on non turbo cars is a black ROUND shaped plug with six sockeets and on 87 turbo cars its a single wire round plug with one black/white wire in it.
So if one does not wanna buy a relay and splice in more than one wire..............give this a try 'cause it takes but one new wire and ..........a female terminal on one end and the other end just spliced into the jumper wire at the starter cut relays plug or if you have factory theft you can splice into the G/B wire in that plug.
By leaving the original starter solenoid trigger wire uncut and original...........you avoid having problems with the ECU and Circuit Opening Relay not getting the start signal.
What I wrote just above actually makes sense to me...........maybe not others. I've been using a Radio Shack relay and jumper wires for about four yrs to overcome this click, click problem......but no 'mo.
The BLUE jumper plug is shown in the attachment in stk condition prior to me cutting it in two and splicing in the NEW wire I mentioned above. BLUE jumper plug exists on cars without factory theft protection. Cars WITH factory theft have no blue jumper but have the elect plug that connects to the starter cut relay and the large green/black wire in that connector can be spliced into or the B/W wire in that plug and you get the same results.
So what I've done is remove the Radio Shack relay that I had installed previously to *fix* this problem.
Doing this I've bypassed the B/W wire from the starter cut relays plug to the connector called FE-05 in the 88 diagrams and also bypassed the B/W wire b/t the FE-05 to the starter solenoid.
I've no real idea why this works for ME. The plug called FE-05 (located below the brake master cylinder area) looks just fine and is a weather proof connector. And the B/W wire leaving it to the starter solenoid looks normal to me.
FE-05 on non turbo cars is a black ROUND shaped plug with six sockeets and on 87 turbo cars its a single wire round plug with one black/white wire in it.
So if one does not wanna buy a relay and splice in more than one wire..............give this a try 'cause it takes but one new wire and ..........a female terminal on one end and the other end just spliced into the jumper wire at the starter cut relays plug or if you have factory theft you can splice into the G/B wire in that plug.
By leaving the original starter solenoid trigger wire uncut and original...........you avoid having problems with the ECU and Circuit Opening Relay not getting the start signal.
What I wrote just above actually makes sense to me...........maybe not others. I've been using a Radio Shack relay and jumper wires for about four yrs to overcome this click, click problem......but no 'mo.
The BLUE jumper plug is shown in the attachment in stk condition prior to me cutting it in two and splicing in the NEW wire I mentioned above. BLUE jumper plug exists on cars without factory theft protection. Cars WITH factory theft have no blue jumper but have the elect plug that connects to the starter cut relay and the large green/black wire in that connector can be spliced into or the B/W wire in that plug and you get the same results.
Alright guys. I took my starter to get tested and it was said to be good. When I turn the key to start I hear the fuel pumping. I tried to hook up a push start button no good. I have a month old optima. Also has an s5 alternator. I did get the starter to work a couple times.
Lol yes more amps to produce
more volts.
I do not have any sort of anti theft although I did get an alarm installed that has a starter disabler when it is armed. But I haven't use the alarm in about a year since I lost the remotes.
more volts.
I do not have any sort of anti theft although I did get an alarm installed that has a starter disabler when it is armed. But I haven't use the alarm in about a year since I lost the remotes.
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