Well let us know how it goes!

 

Your engine sounds like it has no compression. I have never seen one turn over that fast unless the plugs were out.

 

Could someone tell me what "MMO" is so I could go buy some ASAP.

 

marvel mystery oil

 

Alright, so I removed the leading plugs and EGI fuse, then cranked it over. Put plugs/EGI back in and tried again and absolutely nothing changed. Is smoke supposed to come out of the spark plug holes? Smelled like oil, I'm assuming from the OMP? Anyway. I guess my next shot would be MMO and could I do a compression test even if the engine isn't warmed up (considering I can't warm it up...).

Here's what the plugs looked like


And this was attached to the engine and went around the front spark plugs. It wasn't connected to anything though.

 

that's a funky contraption i have never seen before...

 

Eeewwww. Clean those spark plugs up! Are they even making spark?

 

If I didn't know better I would say it's from a lava lamp.

 

Just to make sure, does it matter which spark plug wire goes with which plug? I'm not talking about putting a leading wire on a trailing plug since the tops are blue and bottoms are black. I'm talking mixing up the two trailing or two leading with eachother,

 

a real lava lamp or some sort of spark induction RPM light?


leading it does not matter if they get mixed up, trailing is very important they get put in the proper location.

 

The plug wires are labeled on each coil, if your caps are not broken. If you are standing along you left front fender looking at you leading coil the close one to you is L2 and the fare one is L1. Now for the trailing, the left one is T1 and the right one is T2. Anyone correct me if my trailing is wrong. I hope this helps.
Justin

 

I seen the T1/T2 and L1/L2, which is closest to the firewall? 2 or 1?

T1 and L1 go towards the front of the car and T2 and L2 go towards the firewall, correct?

 

1 is at the front of the car, 2 is at the rear by the firewall.

 

think of T as "top" and L as "lower"... 1 is front and 2 is rear.

 

Done everything other than the MMO trick and putting 2 stroke oil into the plug holes. Nothing has changed so far, it does the exact same thing as the video. Just going to bring the car to a shop tomorrow.

Has anyone had bad experiences bringing their rotarys to regular shops? I don't want to bring it to Mazda and then have to pay a **** ton more.

 

If you bring it to a shop that specializes in rotaries then you have a fighting chance. Take it to some other place and it will be both a waste of time and money.

 

If MMO doesn't work, maybe try Automatic Transmission Fluid? The potential damage would probably be equal to that a regular mechanic would do for sure (at least on your pocket book.) Definitely try MMO first.

 

Thats a block heater. Only way to run an engine in Canada.

Might be to much, but doing a compression test would give a better understanding of the engine's condition.

 

There are no shops within a 5 hour drive that specialize in rotaries. My dad has the mentality that a car is a car and anyone could work on this car if they're a mechanic. Since he's paying to get it fixed (I'm in college and have no money) he'll have to pay for the repairs it'll need afterwards. Just like he wanted to trust a car audio place that I didn't and they ended up breaking multiple interior plastics and vents.

I'm sure the are rotary specialists in Michigan and I'm only 5 minutes from the bridge, but I don't have a passport and the car doesn't run... So how would I even get there.

EDIT: Oddly, that's the first thing that came to mind. I will be driving this car through the winter so many I should piece together the rest of it, aha.

 

a car is a car but an engine isn't just an engine when you are talking about a rotary. a regular shop will just take your money and make a list of parts, likely including a new engine.

worst case, before wasting your time and money at some joe schmoe auto shop, get a tow rope and pull start the bitch with another car/truck. then seriously consider what i said about premixing and/or decarbonizing the engine.

 

You Don't need to go out and Buy any MMO..it is S***,just spelled differently.
Deflood the car as usual but put in a squirt of regular oil,roll the engine over for about 5 seconds,plugs out and then replace plugs,egi fuse and start it up with no foot on the gas.
Your plugs are due to be changed.The electrodes are rounded out.Plus they are dirty.

 

I was going to take it to Mazda tomorrow. Closest thing to someone who knows anything about rotaries around here. I also don't know anyone around here... My girlfriend will laugh is I ask her to tow/pull start my car.

By premixing, do you mean removing the OMP or just premixing to rid the carbon build up? I don't know of a store around here that would sell MMO. I'll check NAPA tomorrow.


I was going to order plugs once Paypal finishes taking 10 years to transfer my funds. I can't wait 2+ weeks to have a car again. So just to get this right. Remove leading plugs and EGI fuse, put a shirt of oil in the plug hole? then do I roll the engine over with the gas pedal to the floor for 5 seconds? Then I put the plugs back in, EGI back in and start it up normally?

I've spent all day repeating these processes and nothing has changed. I have one person saying to try the MMO, one person saying 2 stroke oil in the plug holes and one person saying regular oil. Should I try doing a compression test as well? I'm getting tired of this car, I'm clearly not mechanically inclined enough to own an rx7.

 

you can still premix with an OMP, just run about .5oz per gallon of fuel. it won't get rid of much carbon if at all but it will keep the internal somewhat lubricated compared to the factory injection system.

 

I filled up with gas the day before this happened and driven 4kms since. How am I supposed to put some 2 stroke oil now. Just put 9 ounces into my gas tank?

Would this help at all knowing the T2 plug was wet and all the others were dry? I cleaned them up after this.

 

My god those are bad. Carb cleaner and a wire brush should help though. And I'll tell you a little story: I sold my last 7 because it was doing the same exact thing yours was and I couldn't get it to start. My buddy I sold it to had it started in a few days. How, might you ask? Poured two stroke oil into the combustion chamber, let it sit for like six hours, cranked it, repeat for a few days. End result: he bought my rx7 that I dumped way more into it than I sold it for, and had it running shortly after. And it still runs.

The only thing I'm happy about is I moved to an S5 rather than the S4, but I miss my LSD and exhaust and the perfect body. What I don't miss, are all the problems associated with S4's and the extra 40k mi on the chassis.