Car won't start after engine swap, Fuel related problem
04-30-07, 11:00 PM
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Car won't start after engine swap, Fuel related problem
I've got an 89 Turbo II that I've been rebuilding for the past year and a half. I ordered a JSPEC engine and when it finally arrived 3 months later it was from an S4. I left the mechanical style OMP and the S4 fuel system intact. I've since replaced the injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel tank, as well as several other parts such as exhaust, flywheel, clutch etc. I swapped the s5 turbo system over.
The car is finally done, yet it won't start. The spark plugs are new and are producing spark. The fuel is making it all the way to the fuel injectors but not actually spraying into the engine. I can tell because the spark plugs are not wet at all when i remove them after cranking the engine.
I found out that in order to use the low impedence injectors with my s5 wiring harness that I need to splice 10ohm/10watt resistors into the injector clips. I did that and replaced the injectors w/ brand new Venom injectors. The problem still persisted.
I guess what I'm wondering is, is there some reason why the injectors aren't spraying? Is there some sort of fuel cutoff if the ECU detects something is wrong? When I tried to doing a diagnostic check on the ECU all of my warning lights stay on. Aren't they supposed to shut off after the key is in the ON position for more than a minute or so?
I'm really out of ideas as to how to get the car started. If anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. Or if anyone lives around Western Wisconsin and wouldn't mind helping me I'd appreciate it.
The car is finally done, yet it won't start. The spark plugs are new and are producing spark. The fuel is making it all the way to the fuel injectors but not actually spraying into the engine. I can tell because the spark plugs are not wet at all when i remove them after cranking the engine.
I found out that in order to use the low impedence injectors with my s5 wiring harness that I need to splice 10ohm/10watt resistors into the injector clips. I did that and replaced the injectors w/ brand new Venom injectors. The problem still persisted.
I guess what I'm wondering is, is there some reason why the injectors aren't spraying? Is there some sort of fuel cutoff if the ECU detects something is wrong? When I tried to doing a diagnostic check on the ECU all of my warning lights stay on. Aren't they supposed to shut off after the key is in the ON position for more than a minute or so?
I'm really out of ideas as to how to get the car started. If anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. Or if anyone lives around Western Wisconsin and wouldn't mind helping me I'd appreciate it.
05-01-07, 06:47 AM
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I have a similar problem with JDM S5 T2 motor. There's spark and fuel is making it to the rails, but no spray/start? I'm using the whole uncut JDM harness (the car's a S5 Right Hand Drive). Sorry for the thread jack...
05-01-07, 06:54 AM
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go to autozone and get a $10 injector testing kit. It is a led kit that plugs into the wiring harness. It will tell you if the cas is firing the injectors everytime It lights up. if that doesn't work check for power at the fuel pump. I believe that the prime system is a completely different system from the actual fuel pump power system. So the car can still prime but it won't inject fuel while trying to start it up. Last thing to think about is there fuel pressure in the rail?
05-01-07, 08:57 AM
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Make sure your fuel lines aren't hooked up backwards, JSPEC engine hook up opporsit to ASEC engines. I had the same problem when I frist put my engine in.
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05-01-07, 09:02 AM
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backwards like from the filter to the secondary rail first? and then from the primary rail back to the firewall? I removed all the rat's nest **** btw.
When I tested the old injectors they weren't working, but I don't think I tested them w/ a test light again after splicing the resistors into the clips. I'll have to test them again. If the tester still doesn't light up, what could be the reason for that? The EGI fuse is fine. As far as I know the wire harness isn't damaged...
When I tested the old injectors they weren't working, but I don't think I tested them w/ a test light again after splicing the resistors into the clips. I'll have to test them again. If the tester still doesn't light up, what could be the reason for that? The EGI fuse is fine. As far as I know the wire harness isn't damaged...
05-01-07, 09:18 PM
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Isn't there some way to trick the ECU into thinking the electrical OMP is in place and working? How do all those people block it off and run premix on S5 ECUs? Or do they all go standalone?
05-02-07, 01:34 PM
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Oh yeah, I saw this funny clip on the Colbert Report a few days back about Guam. Here's a link to the vid. You might have to scroll down to find it.
http://www.comedycentral.com/motherl...&is_large=true
http://www.comedycentral.com/motherl...&is_large=true
05-03-07, 08:43 AM
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I'm going to try that again this afternoon. Even if there is, I still have to swap over the OMP and front cover I guess... I wish the ****** I bought the new motor from would have sent me the right one.
05-04-07, 07:54 AM
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i also did a j-spec TII swap and it didnt start, it turned out that the fuel regulator was locked shut and broke, look into geting a aftermarket one.
05-04-07, 12:09 PM
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Hey V8slayer, you're from Eau Claire? I'm in La Crosse. If you got any free time and wouldn't mind helping me out a little I could prolly throw you some beer for the effort!
Otherwise we should meet up when I get my car running at least. Did you just do a S4 swap into an S4 chassis?
Otherwise we should meet up when I get my car running at least. Did you just do a S4 swap into an S4 chassis?
06-25-07, 08:58 AM
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A bad electric OMP will not keep a car from starting. Forget that idea.
What you need to do, is jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the key to ON. Then listen for the CONSTANT running of the fuel pump. Listen back at the fuel tank. The fuel should continuously flow. IF not, then swap the fuel lines at the engine and listen again.
Since you have spark, you know the cas is good and it also implys that the fuel injector drivers should be able to pulse a injector. Personally I'd buy a cheap, DIGITAL mulitmeter. Then pull the plug off the ECU that has the fuel injector wires coming to it. Turn the key to ON. Then see if you have 12vdc on the Primary injector wires. It's as simple as putting the positive lead of the meter on the injector wire in the plug and touching the negative terminal to a good ground, like the bracket that holds the ECU in place.
Test lights have their place. It isn't on a car. A simple digital meter can be had for twenty bucks, I think.
Personally I think just moving the fuel lines will do the trick. Guessing.
What you need to do, is jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the key to ON. Then listen for the CONSTANT running of the fuel pump. Listen back at the fuel tank. The fuel should continuously flow. IF not, then swap the fuel lines at the engine and listen again.
Since you have spark, you know the cas is good and it also implys that the fuel injector drivers should be able to pulse a injector. Personally I'd buy a cheap, DIGITAL mulitmeter. Then pull the plug off the ECU that has the fuel injector wires coming to it. Turn the key to ON. Then see if you have 12vdc on the Primary injector wires. It's as simple as putting the positive lead of the meter on the injector wire in the plug and touching the negative terminal to a good ground, like the bracket that holds the ECU in place.
Test lights have their place. It isn't on a car. A simple digital meter can be had for twenty bucks, I think.
Personally I think just moving the fuel lines will do the trick. Guessing.