Just got this car and it has no spark. This is my 3rd FC. I looked under the dash and found the previous owner had a 2 prong connector jumpered. I pulled out the jumper knowing this isnt normal, then the car wouldnt crank. I plugged the jumper back in and the car cranked again but still no spark. Im thinking this has something to do with the security? Is there a wire off the ECU, or the harness that I can cut to get my spark back and leave the connector jumpered? It sounds odd, but Ive had this problem on other vehicles and gotten around it.

Im assuming the starter not working is directly related to the starter cut relay, and this has to do with why Im not getting spark. The connector being jumpered is triggering the starter, but not giving me spark. I need to know how to disable the security crap or get around it so I can get spark back.

 

Pics, I think, are in order.

 

S4 or S5?

 

can you crank the car without the clutch depressed?

 

Its a S4. I can crank the car without the clutch depressed, but only when the connector under the dash is jumpered. When its not jumpered the starter does nothing. This and the car has no spark.

Let me get a pic of what is jumpered.

 

The starter turning over is independent of the car having spark. Go to the leading coil w/key to on and disconnect the two wire white plug and see if the Black/Yellow wire has battery voltage on it as it should.

 

Here is the connector that needs jumpered to get the car to crank. Its the connector with the Black/red stripe wire and the Black/green striped wire

 

Im gonna go try it right now

 

This is the jumper you need. It came in non-alarm S4's. I had the same "no crank" issue. Post an ad in the classifieds. I got mine for free from an awesome Rx7club member.

 

O nevermind. I thought you were jumping the conn. under the hood. That looks like the interlock switch.

 

Car key ON, no voltage at all off of the Black/yellow striped wire on the Leading coil.

 

If the Black/Green wire is jumpered to the Black/Red wire then that means the clutch does not have to be depressed to get the starter to turn over. Thus, if the wire jumper is removed then the clutch does need to be depressed. The exception is if the item being jumpered is either not mounted properly or is faulty. Normally, if you have an interlock switch mounted on the top of the clutch pedal then the clutch needs to be depressed to get the voltage on the B/R wire to pass onto the B/G wire so the starting circuit could work.

 

Check the interior fuse box and focus on the 15 amp Engine fuse. It's best to use a continuity test on the fuse to see if it is good or not rather than a visual check. Replace if necessary and check the B/Y wire once again w/key to on.

 

Satch, I understand that if the clutch switch is altered the clutch doesnt have to be pressed in to start it. Yes, when this is jumpered the car will crank without the clutch in, but when it is not jumpered on my car the car wont start at all.

 

Let me run out to the garage and test it, I did check all the fuses, but I know what you mean. Ill replace it with a new one and test the leading coil again. You think I should just leave the clutch switch jumpered then, like you said, something is just faulty with it? Gonna do the fuse check real quick

 

The switch on the clutch is the lest of your problems right now.

 

Thats the clutch interlock switch and is independent of spark functions...

Leave it jumpered if you like.

 

Tested the fuse, it was good. Retested coil, nothing. Replaced with a new fuse, tested coil, still nothing. This doesnt look like its leading anywhere good, Satch.

 

The switch that is jumpered is part of the starting circuit and works to get the starter to turn over but it has nothing to do with there being spark or not. If the starter does turn over your car still won't start because of the absence of spark which is part ofa different circuit.

 

This is a one step at a time process. Have patience, please. I know a little something about the wiring systems on these cars. With that being said, the problem appears to be related to the Main relay. Now when the key is turned to on does the Main relay click or not? The Main relay receives voltage from three wires over all. The B/W wire that is in the two plug wire helps to power it up and the other two wires come from the engine fuse box so the voltage on these two wires could be relayed to the coils,injectors,sensors,emission solenoids and the ECU. If the Main relay is not powered up or not working properly or not grounded properly or not receiving voltage on the B/G wire then your coils are not going to have voltage. Comprende? And w/o out voltage at the coils the car ain't going to start.

B/G and W/L at the engine fuse box needs to have constant voltage on them. No key necessary, so these two wires need to be checked.

At the Main relay the B/W wire that is in a two wire plug needs to have voltage on it w/key to on so this needs to be checked as well. If it clicks then this B/W has voltage. Removing the two wire plug w/key to on will cause the relay to click as will reconnecting the plug to the relay

 

I agree, screw the switch right now. Are you thinking I have a break somewhere in the wire to the coil? Is this as easy as running a new power wire to the coil off of an eligible socket in the fuse box?

 

I have plenty of patience Satch, I apologize, we are getting each others messages at screwed up rates

 

Im gonna check this out right now, right now I dont remember hearing the relay click, but Im going out the the garage to investigate it and test the wires.

 

I must be an idiot. What I think is the main relay was located by the trailing coil between the firewall and DS shock tower. This relay is a 6 prong plug, and you told me to test the 2 prong connector on it with the B/W wire. So Im guessing I have found the wrong relay.

 

I'll with hold judgement for now. The main relay is located near the firewall and mounted to the driver's side fender. If you have the starter cut relay it will be located next to it. The Main relay has two plugs. One plug has a B/W wire and a solid Black wire. The other plug has four wires and they are White/Blue, Black/Green, Black/Yellow and Black/White. So again, check B/W in the two wire plug for voltage w/key to on. Also, check B/G and W/L in the four wire plug for voltage (no key necessary for this as they are constant voltage (24/7). Check for clicking as suggested previously.