Tips on removing turbo

Follow the removal info found here http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...&threadid=8341

1. remove all hoses and check for cracks or replace . becareful since the hoses may be old and brittle and break when moved/flexed.

2. always use crush washers (16mm) on coolant bonjo bolts in to turbo.

3. once turbo is re-installed fit coolant lines on and fill coolant before you proceed to fit the ACV and air pump. and check for leaks.... if you have leak you may have to remove the turbo again jsut to get to engine coolant banjo bolt..if it is the source..

4.Prim the oil system , remove EGI fuse and turn over engine before you start it since the turbo will be dry..

5. cover up.. cover up any holes (turbo inlet/outlet,manfold etc. )

6. use anti seize on high heat bolts and nuts.

7. thread nuts/bolts till finger tight and then use a criss cross method for tighting.(this will help evenly apply pressure to surfaces and stop leaks and cracking)

8.remeber to note vacume lines and air return lines and check valve positions/locations.

Add to this list if you feel fit to.

Primary socket sizes used
10mm (ACV,Split pipe,Coolant 2 LIM,wireharness)
12mm (oil lines into/out of turbo & return ,Air pump)
14mm (manifold,downpipe)
17mm (oil line top)
21mm (Coolant Banjo bolt, o2 sensor)

 

And if you throw the heatshields in the garbage, it makes removal tiwce as fast the second time

 

yep, if you get rid of all that crap you dont need, you can R&R the turbo in under an hour like me haha.