Car overheated...What did I do internally?
Car overheated...What did I do internally?
Well the engine on my new turbo car was already blowing smoke at idle only...What exactly does that mean.. Wich sealz are gone for it to blow smoke at idle only???
Another ? is My cars temp gauge went all the way to the H and beyond...I drove home like this at night on the freeway for 20 minz... Car still ran fine and didnt show any power loss signs or overheating... (except on gauge) When I turned the car off it started smoking everywere around the engine and intercooler. Smelt like oil too. Lots of crackling sounds and whatever... Thier was coolant and oil leeking underneath the car. Mabey a square foot puddle of both after 5 minz.
What exact damage did I do and what can be reusable in a rebuild??? please anything will help my future decisions on what to do with the car.
Also the fan and coolant lite were on but the coolant was adequate and I dont know what the fan lite meanz.
Another ? is My cars temp gauge went all the way to the H and beyond...I drove home like this at night on the freeway for 20 minz... Car still ran fine and didnt show any power loss signs or overheating... (except on gauge) When I turned the car off it started smoking everywere around the engine and intercooler. Smelt like oil too. Lots of crackling sounds and whatever... Thier was coolant and oil leeking underneath the car. Mabey a square foot puddle of both after 5 minz.
What exact damage did I do and what can be reusable in a rebuild??? please anything will help my future decisions on what to do with the car.
Also the fan and coolant lite were on but the coolant was adequate and I dont know what the fan lite meanz.
Re: Car overheated...What did I do internally?
Originally posted by von
Well the engine on my new turbo car was already blowing smoke at idle only...What exactly does that mean.. Wich sealz are gone for it to blow smoke at idle only???
Another ? is My cars temp gauge went all the way to the H and beyond...I drove home like this at night on the freeway for 20 minz... Car still ran fine and didnt show any power loss signs or overheating... (except on gauge) When I turned the car off it started smoking everywere around the engine and intercooler. Smelt like oil too. Lots of crackling sounds and whatever... Thier was coolant and oil leeking underneath the car. Mabey a square foot puddle of both after 5 minz.
What exact damage did I do and what can be reusable in a rebuild??? please anything will help my future decisions on what to do with the car.
Also the fan and coolant lite were on but the coolant was adequate and I dont know what the fan lite meanz.
Well the engine on my new turbo car was already blowing smoke at idle only...What exactly does that mean.. Wich sealz are gone for it to blow smoke at idle only???
Another ? is My cars temp gauge went all the way to the H and beyond...I drove home like this at night on the freeway for 20 minz... Car still ran fine and didnt show any power loss signs or overheating... (except on gauge) When I turned the car off it started smoking everywere around the engine and intercooler. Smelt like oil too. Lots of crackling sounds and whatever... Thier was coolant and oil leeking underneath the car. Mabey a square foot puddle of both after 5 minz.
What exact damage did I do and what can be reusable in a rebuild??? please anything will help my future decisions on what to do with the car.
Also the fan and coolant lite were on but the coolant was adequate and I dont know what the fan lite meanz.

j/k
Overheating (on the gauge) means that the coolant is boiling, overflowing and spitting out of the overflow bottle (that was some of the smoke you saw). I bet you your car -or what's left of it
- that if you had an oil temp gauge, it would also show overheating. Generally you overheated your engine
You could have overheated various hoses in the engine bay, causing them to over-expand. You may need new hoses for coolant and oil. I dont think that the various seals can take damage from heat, only from pressure or corrosion (except of course the apex seals).If it still starts, then you are in luck....
Originally posted by CrackHeadMel
you drove on that for 20 min?
Omg, if mine even gets close to H i shut her down, highway, back road nomater what
you drove on that for 20 min?
Omg, if mine even gets close to H i shut her down, highway, back road nomater what
I almost wet my pants
Pull over immediately, coasted for a while, let it cool down, drove back to my house to check. Nothing wrong, thank you very much 
........he's probably joking anyway....
20 minutes is a LONG time.  If you don't see obvious signs of a coolant leak, you might see it later down the road.  Excess heat overly stresses EVERYTHING inside the engine.  Most likely you'd done irreversible damage to the inner water jacket o-rings/grooves and the oil control o-rings.  These "soft" seals are the most prone to damage from excessive heat in the engine.  Failure of the water jacket o-ring will cause lower compression and coolant to leak into the combustion chamber.  Failing oil control o-rings (sounds like you already got them) will cause excessive smoking through the exhaust.
-Ted
-Ted
oh thnx guys...
Yes the car was already blown and I had to get it out of the parking space of this guys house...Another thing is the previous owner helped me start it in wich if I stall it WILL NOT start again until I jump the car with a BIG battery and do the complex unflooding procedure. Now im going to rebuild the engine and drop in a jspec in the meantime. Hopfully somethings salvagable because the car ran surprisingly fine for a blown engine. In fact mabey the engine was fine this whole time and just a bad oil seal or something. All well.
Yes the car was already blown and I had to get it out of the parking space of this guys house...Another thing is the previous owner helped me start it in wich if I stall it WILL NOT start again until I jump the car with a BIG battery and do the complex unflooding procedure. Now im going to rebuild the engine and drop in a jspec in the meantime. Hopfully somethings salvagable because the car ran surprisingly fine for a blown engine. In fact mabey the engine was fine this whole time and just a bad oil seal or something. All well.
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brap brap
Joined: May 2002
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From: Migrated back to Gulf Breeze, FL
Why would you drive it even when it's on the H?
I'm really surprised your car is still alive, and you didn't blow the engine. What mind were you in to drive it for 20mins while it was still hot?
I'm really surprised your car is still alive, and you didn't blow the engine. What mind were you in to drive it for 20mins while it was still hot?
NO...It was overheating the whole time a.s.s. h.o.l.e.s holes...LOOK..The car needed to get out of this parking lot or else! So when we started it after 30 minutes and the complex unflooding procedure I DID NOT WANT TO TURN IT OFF ESPECIALLY WHEN IM IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWWERE NEAR HOME!!!....THE ENGINE IS ALREADY BLOWN LIKE I SAID^ Just not that bad.
im going to try and start it again with oil and water this time...
? what does the fan light mean in the cluster. And how low does the coolant have to be in order to turn on?
? what does the fan light mean in the cluster. And how low does the coolant have to be in order to turn on?
Originally posted by von
im going to try and start it again with oil and water this time...
? what does the fan light mean in the cluster. And how low does the coolant have to be in order to turn on?
im going to try and start it again with oil and water this time...
? what does the fan light mean in the cluster. And how low does the coolant have to be in order to turn on?

"Turn on" ? What ? The fan ? Or the light in the cluster ? The fan light means that no juice goes to the fan (fuse, wiring or motor....I think). The coolant light means low pressure, which means either loss of coolant, problem in water pump, leak, or air in the system (all of them bad
)
Like Ted said the water seals are toast. From now on that engine will be hard starting(probably why it was to begin with, PO overheated it real good) and useless to drive, it will overheat eavh and every time you do drive it, probably within 10 minutes of starting.
FOr rebuilding, most of the stuff is probably gonna be ok. However, if it has been overheated that bad(you can bet if it did it to you on your first night with it, it's had a history) some of the irons might be cracked, as was the case with a overheater I just rebuilt...the front iron was BROKE and junked out.Sometimes the crack/break causes the overheating, sometimes the overheating causes the crack, but either way it's junk. IF you take it apart just inspect the parts for scarring, heated metal(blotchy colorations), warpage(straightedge in 4 directions on each housing) and crackign along all teh wter jacket grooves. If it passes all these tests, I say use them. IF you have a choice between using a overheated engine or parts, or using a regular blown core, well then use the good core, but, overheated parts are generally ok.
FOr rebuilding, most of the stuff is probably gonna be ok. However, if it has been overheated that bad(you can bet if it did it to you on your first night with it, it's had a history) some of the irons might be cracked, as was the case with a overheater I just rebuilt...the front iron was BROKE and junked out.Sometimes the crack/break causes the overheating, sometimes the overheating causes the crack, but either way it's junk. IF you take it apart just inspect the parts for scarring, heated metal(blotchy colorations), warpage(straightedge in 4 directions on each housing) and crackign along all teh wter jacket grooves. If it passes all these tests, I say use them. IF you have a choice between using a overheated engine or parts, or using a regular blown core, well then use the good core, but, overheated parts are generally ok.
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To see how bad your internals are, take off the radiator cap and crank the engine. If coolant shoots out like a geiser, the engine is dead. You'll do more damage by trying to drive the car *IF* it starts. If you let it sit over night, it will not start as coolant will seep into the combustion chambers. Your worse scenario will be warped rotor housings. Be ready to buy a pair. The side housings should be good. You'll need a rebuild kit as well since EVERYTHING will be pulled apart.
cool that was one of my main concerns was the side housings...As long as I can salvage something... Oh and what about the front cover plate? Is that good?
ROTORS? They still good?
ROTORS? They still good?
Originally posted by von
cool that was one of my main concerns was the side housings...As long as I can salvage something... Oh and what about the front cover plate? Is that good?
ROTORS? They still good?
cool that was one of my main concerns was the side housings...As long as I can salvage something... Oh and what about the front cover plate? Is that good?
ROTORS? They still good?
You can forget your seals though...
Originally posted by von
NO...It was overheating the whole time a.s.s. h.o.l.e.s holes...LOOK..The car needed to get out of this parking lot or else! So when we started it after 30 minutes and the complex unflooding procedure I DID NOT WANT TO TURN IT OFF ESPECIALLY WHEN IM IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWWERE NEAR HOME!!!....THE ENGINE IS ALREADY BLOWN LIKE I SAID^ Just not that bad.
NO...It was overheating the whole time a.s.s. h.o.l.e.s holes...LOOK..The car needed to get out of this parking lot or else! So when we started it after 30 minutes and the complex unflooding procedure I DID NOT WANT TO TURN IT OFF ESPECIALLY WHEN IM IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWWERE NEAR HOME!!!....THE ENGINE IS ALREADY BLOWN LIKE I SAID^ Just not that bad.
Since you obviously didn't give a **** about the engine, why are you asking about it now?
Mine overheated once. I was making a high speed run(120) on a road clost to my house. And all of a sudden I smelt anitfreeze buring. So I pulled over walked to my house(about 2 miles away) and got a old two liter full of water walked back. The heater hose that is connected to the motor had split off. Took out my poket knife cut hose to a good spot(cut about2 inches off). Went to pepboys bought new one and antifreeze put it on and no proplem. Sorry so long.
kleach
kleach
I do care about the engine but I didnt have tow money. And felix...just because I didnt care about the engine DOES NOT mean that Im not going to ask whats salvagable. Im droping another 89 Jspec in it wile I learn about how to rebuild this blown engine. Im sure I needed new rotor housings anywayz because it was boosted to 16psi and pinged hard by the previous owner. He got a 13.1 on stock engine that day with just a gutted cat and filter, tb mod , boost control and AFC THATS IT.
von: man, thats kinda cool... i want to kill a motor too...
(seriously) Just not my motor, my friends, before we swap a B16 into his CRX we are going to drain the oil and coolant and go run it till it dies!!
(seriously) Just not my motor, my friends, before we swap a B16 into his CRX we are going to drain the oil and coolant and go run it till it dies!!


