2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car Dies When Initial Set Connector Jumpered.

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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 08:12 AM
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Car Dies When Initial Set Connector Jumpered.

I have a BAC valve measuring 14.5 Ohm when hot, so I wanted to raise my idle until I could find a new one. I jumpered the connector and the car promptly died. Any ideas? It does it almost every time (when at operating temp.)
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 09:50 PM
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Any ideas? The car will not hold a hot idle, period.
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 10:01 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
try raising the idle speed (turn the screw out more)

mike
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 08:48 AM
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
try raising the idle speed (turn the screw out more)

mike
It has no effect...
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 01:56 PM
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Thats bizarre...

Lets check the obvious. You have the CORRECT connector jumpered, right?

Jarrett
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Old Apr 17, 2003 | 08:06 AM
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Yes. Basically, here is my problem. I start the car up, sometimes it goes into 3k warm-up, sometimes not. Idle then drops to about 1100 RPM. As the car warms up, the idle continues to drop until it can no longer sustain an idle. I was originally thinking BAC valve since it goes from a cold reading of 12.4 Ohms to a hot reading of 14.5. However, the car should run without the BAC valve, so that cannot be the root of my problem. TPS is adjusted, and I was going to set my idle, but I cannot set it hot since it won't idle. This weekend, I am going to try and pick up a BAC valve and check the pin-outs on my ECU to make sure my ECU is ok. I was more just curious to see if anyone else has had this problem, and if they have, how did they remody the problem. And if they just got rid of it, that will not happen with me
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