2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car dies at 1500rpms

Old Oct 18, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #51  
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put a vice grip on the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, remove the spark plugs and place them in the wires and lay them on the strut tower, crank the engine and watch.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #52  
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I'll try that. Can I also disconnect my fuel pump at the trunk to be extra safe?
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by zoneman2
I'll try that. Can I also disconnect my fuel pump at the trunk to be extra safe?
Yes.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #54  
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ok All 4 spark plugs spark. So IDK what the issue is. I have spark and fuel
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #55  
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You might want to try deflooding the car using a procedure that has some teeth to it. Start off by disconnecting the electrical plug to the fuel pump and then spray some starter fluid into the air intake and use just a couple of seconds of spray if that and then try to start the car. Do this three times over and then reconnect the pump back up and try to start it normally. And you mentioned the BAC had a leak. Is this a thing of the past, as it's already been addressed, or it still has a leak?
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by satch
You might want to try deflooding the car using a procedure that has some teeth to it. Start off by disconnecting the electrical plug to the fuel pump and then spray some starter fluid into the air intake and use just a couple of seconds of spray if that and then try to start the car. Do this three times over and then reconnect the pump back up and try to start it normally. And you mentioned the BAC had a leak. Is this a thing of the past, as it's already been addressed, or it still has a leak?
BAC is a thing of the past. I used a block off plate. Because it was never in use. Ok ill try that. Now when the spark plug was "supposed to spark" is there a blue arc supposed to come off or just a small spark?
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #57  
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A blue spark is a sign of a strong spark while orange would be indicative of a weak spark.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #58  
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well I didnt wish to hold the spark plug, Neither did the person with me so I just let it rest on the car. and it had bits of blue n orange. But it wasn't coming from the tip more like the side
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by satch
A blue spark is a sign of a strong spark while orange would be indicative of a weak spark.
How would I fix a weak spark?
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 04:52 PM
  #60  
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Ok I just got a weird issue when I tired to start it Heres the link


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLhk0RelGYo OOOO PLAY THE VIDEO ON MUTE OR LOWERED VOLUME. ITS VERY LOUD.


I dont have my foot on the accelerator, The throttle cable isnt too tight. I capped off some vacuum ports. Blocked off the BAC and OMP. And added my premix.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #61  
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If the car has cruise control then that cable might be causing the high rev.

Are you pressing on the accelerator to start the car though?

Do the throttle plates look to be in the proper position if you look at them w/the intake tube removed from the throttle body? If they do then manually press down on the throttle linkage and see if the plates move back into the proper position or not.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #62  
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What happens if the accelerator pedal is stepped on a bit when it idles at 5000 rpm? Do things stay the same or not.

How long does the very high idle last? More than 17 seconds. I ask because perhaps the AWS is at play here, but probably not though. The AWS has two wires and one is Brown/Yellow. When the solenoid is activated this wire has a ground on it. You can jumper a wire in place into the back of the two wire plug going to the solenoid and supply voltage to the Br/Y wire which will prevent it from coming on and would perhaps help to rule out this item from the equation.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by satch
If the car has cruise control then that cable might be causing the high rev.

Are you pressing on the accelerator to start the car though?

Do the throttle plates look to be in the proper position if you look at them w/the intake tube removed from the throttle body? If they do then manually press down on the throttle linkage and see if the plates move back into the proper position or not.
No CC. Not pressing accelerator. I'll have to check the throttle plates. I did spray starter fluid in there a few times to deflood the car.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:45 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by satch
What happens if the accelerator pedal is stepped on a bit when it idles at 5000 rpm? Do things stay the same or not.

How long does the very high idle last? More than 17 seconds. I ask because perhaps the AWS is at play here, but probably not though. The AWS has two wires and one is Brown/Yellow. When the solenoid is activated this wire has a ground on it. You can jumper a wire in place into the back of the two wire plug going to the solenoid and supply voltage to the Br/Y wire which will prevent it from coming on and would perhaps help to rule out this item from the equation.
I shut it off after a few seconds it freaked me out. I didnt wanna ruin anything internally since its a rebuild. I heard if you start the car ingear it disables the AWS. How true is that?
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:52 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by zoneman2
I shut it off after a few seconds it freaked me out. I didnt wanna ruin anything internally since its a rebuild. I heard if you start the car ingear it disables the AWS. How true is that?
Or tapping the pedal but it "might" not be responding properly but this is a very, very longshot and was mentioned to just list the "possibilities."
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #66  
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I fixed that issue. It wa something soo stupid. A metal tab was keeping the throttle opened ever soo slightly Now I have a issue of it bogging. I'll post up a video when I do some editing on it.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #67  
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ok heres the video its LOUD. I might of mixed up some clips while editing


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpDm0meQCL0
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:29 PM
  #68  
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The most obvious issue you need to take care of first and foremost is the throttle cable. Once that is addessed "then" you could proceed on to other aspects possibly affecting your car.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
The most obvious issue you need to take care of first and foremost is the throttle cable. Once that is addessed "then" you could proceed on to other aspects possibly affecting your car.
ya the throttle cable issue is fixed
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by zoneman2
ya the throttle cable issue is fixed
Then what does the car idle at when completely warmed up?
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Then what does the car idle at when completely warmed up?
Its always been around 1k-1200 even before the rebuild. Now mater what I did it was always that high. Idk what it is at now because I didnt let it warm up fully.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #72  
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Once you do get around to warming it up fully and are able to get the idle below 1100 rpm then you can address setting the G/R TPS wire to 1 volt w/key to on.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by satch
Once you do get around to warming it up fully and are able to get the idle below 1100 rpm then you can address setting the G/R TPS wire to 1 volt w/key to on.
Well to get it fully warmed I need to fix a few things. is it ok if it ildes like that tho to get it fully warmed
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by zoneman2
Well to get it fully warmed I need to fix a few things. is it ok if it ildes like that tho to get it fully warmed
It shouldn't make a difference. If you set the TPS w/the engine off then it doesn't need to idle below 1100 before turning the car off, but if you set the TPS while it's above that level while running you won't accurately set the TPS.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:39 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by zoneman2
Well to get it fully warmed I need to fix a few things. is it ok if it ildes like that tho to get it fully warmed
It shouldn't make a difference. If you set the TPS w/the engine off then it doesn't need to idle below 1100 before turning the car off as long as the primary plates return to a normal position, but if you set the TPS while it's above that level while running you won't accurately set the TPS.
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