newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

There is a single green connector by the battery, find an old speaker wire or some electrical wire to shove in the single green connector and than ground the other end to the negative battery terminal. Turn the key to on and the CEL should start blinking if there any codes stored in the ECU. This is of course if you have a s5 setup the s4 ecu you have to use a LED light.

satch

iTrader: (1)

At what rpm does the car stutter? The secondary injectors begin to work at 3800 rpm.

Checking S4 error codes: http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

The stutter is random sometimes. Not at certain rpm every time. It'll sound like its choking mostly in low rpms and I'll hit the gas and it'll work it's way thru the stutter and then it will rev fine. All the way to red line. I'll start driving fine in first and shift to second and it'll stutter again (low rpms). If it doesn't stutter in 2nd and I get on it w wot it'll feel like its losing power around 4-5k. In gears 2-5 while driving if I hit the gas in a low rpm it will bog or choke out, stutter, whatever we wanna call it...def seems to be worse when car is warm. Ugh this is so hard to explain.

Anyway...I did check cel codes today and I got about 10 different ones. My buddy thinks its a boost/vac leak. I'm gonna look into making a boost leak tester.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Well mine ended up being compression...got 85 psi all around on the front and 60 all around on the back. So my seals are shot.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to hear that man, that's unfortunate. I've checked my compression multiple times, I've been pretty paranoid about that w 109k on my motor running 10psi. Anyway gonna change plugs tomorrow. I've ruled out many things and i hope its that simple lol.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Yeah man best of luck to you on this problem! I can't really think of anything else for you check

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

Nickedsly: A favor to ask. When you finally solve the problem, post the solution here in this thread. Sounds like ther are others who would like to hear, too.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

No problem.

I changed out the plugs and wires today and its still doin it. Gonna check for boost leaks today. I'm noticing this happening under load the most. If you just rev it stillin still it's fine...but sometimes when I do rev it sitting still it'll pop/sputter and if i can get it up to redline (or near) when the revs come back down ill hit the gas to get them to go back up and the revs continue to drop as if I didn't even hit the gas. After this happens its hard to get car started...after a coup tries I can get it running and idling fine but you can't rev it, its doin what i showed that vid and Ive noticed black smoke(too much fuel) when trying to get it back started. This is so weird.

If no boost leak then what? Could it be the injectors? Coil packs? Afm? And these are all expensive parts which is just spectacular but if I'm positive of what it is ill replace it. Anyone have some stuff I can borrow? Lol. And I haven't check pinout values on ecu cause I don't understand why a sensor would make this happen(or really how to do it lol). Oh and I've ruled out the fuel pump/filters, fuel pressure, plugs, wires. The tps is fine, the alternator is fine, compression is fine. Car has never flooded or anything. Help...please!!!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Primary injectors are responsible for reving while in neutral and no load. W/load on the car and rpm over 3800 then the secondary injectors assist in providing fuel to the engine. If you unplug the TPS and the vacuum hose to the Boost Sensor it will trick the ECU into thinking it is under load so if you rev the car in neutral in excesss of 3800 rpm the secondaries will be active. If you notice the difference between your previous reving and no problem w/the reving and under load while in neutral then perhaps you have a secondary injector issue.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

Ill try this...and I edited last post to add more if you wanna re read. Thx.

satch

iTrader: (1)

As stated earlier, a clogged cat can create such symptoms, but it's not limited to just this. If in doubt you could temporarily remove the Oxygen Sensor, although it is rather hard to remove, and this will provide another gateway for the exhaust to travel. If you notice a night and day difference then it would point you to a clogged cat.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

I don't have a cat. More like a resonator. I checked it tho nothing's wrong w it.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

Didn't notice anything different:/

satch

iTrader: (1)

How about sharing w/us what error codes you pulled the other day.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

these are all the codes I got 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 31, 32, 33, 38, 42, 43, thats what I wrote down then my battery died. I can recheck codes tomorrow cause I reset it the day battery died.

satch

iTrader: (1)

This ought to keep you busy.

RX7 FD & Series 5 Error Codes

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

8, 10, 18, 25, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 38, 42 these are the codes I got this am. I had my afm unplugged so that's part if it and I did that trick you said where I unplugged the tps and unhooked boost sensor vac line. Idk man.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You should have everything hooked up before pulling codes. Next thing is you said you reved the car in neutral and then while tricking the car into thinking it was under load. Did the car behave properly under both conditions or not.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

Everything was hooked up. I figure when they were unhooked is why the codes came up. And the car acts up either way...but seemed like it was in higher rpms during the trick. It's hard to say. But what's weird is how ill rev up into high rpms an when they start drop and I hit the gas and the rpms keep goin down. I didn't notice this when I did the trick.

satch

iTrader: (1)

8, 10, 18, 25, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 38, 42 these are the codes I got this am. I had my afm unplugged so that's part if it

Tell us how someone would think you had everything hooked up? Which is it?

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

I meant it had been unplugged prior to checking the codes. I tried to start the car yesterday w it unplugged by accident and figured thats why code came up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you rev the engine but very slowly let off the gas does it still behave problematically? And when I say slowly I mean really slowly. Or does the problem manifest itself if the foot is quickly pulled off of the throttle?

satch

iTrader: (1)

And focus on #11, #13 and #15 error codes especially #11. Make sure these items are plugged in.

nickedsly

iTrader: (6)

I don't think it makes a difference...when its not revving back up after I let off and get back on its when im quickly pulling off throttle. Haven't tried to lightly let off.

Today i warmed it up and went down the street about 100yds I'm noticing that when you lightly get on the gas while driving it does better but no mater what right around 3k it starts gettin jerky and stutters (Its like you can drive it normal as long as youre gentle on throttle and don't go above 3k), and most of the time after that happens the car dies. It'll start right back up and idle other times it won't even stay running. This only happens when you drive the car. If its parked its like nothing is wrong. You can rev it to redline and it idles an everything. The only thing that's weird is that the revs break up in high rpms sometimes when I get aggressive w the throttle.

Ugh this is so annoying trying to explain. I'm about to take it to a mechanic even tho I don't want to. I wish I could just diagnose this issue and be done w it.

cr7684

iTrader: (42)

How about about doing a compression test, the codes should be looked at for sure. But sounds mechanical like a side seal good luck.