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Can an offset brake rotor.....

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Old 03-31-04, 06:18 PM
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Can an offset brake rotor.....

I replaced both my front brake rotors a few months ago. Let me say, not a fun or easy task as I'm sure most of us are accustomed to. The little buggers over years of neglect and "Florida", decided to become one with the hub units. I took the two screws holding the rotors onto the hubs out and put backer bolts in to try and knock the rotors lose.....no luck. Took various diff mallets and tried that as well, nothing. So I said okay, time for a little shot of PB Blaster.....no budge! I ended up having to take the rotor and wheel hub off as one unit. So my only other option was to put the badly warped rotors in a vice. I used a combination of banging on the backing bolts and using a mallet to carefully tap around the inner ring of the hub while in the vice. Oh yeah, and of course the help of the infamous PB Blaster penetrant.

So I finally got them off, one a bit easier than the other. Talk about a mess, both inner rotor housings were practically welded onto the outer lip of the hub. Got new rotors, cleaned up the outer edges of the hubs best I could and started my install. Driver side, good to go, fit like a glove, repacked wheel bearings. Pass side, not so fast! nope gotta problem.

So here is where my Dilemma begins. What I should have done, but didn't have the cash to fork out was buy new hubs as well.
The pass side rotor didn't want to slide onto the hub all the way down. I got her down as far as I could tell. Put both retaining screws back in, but I knew she wasn't quite flush all the way, maybe cocked a bit. Keep in mind though, I had all five studs acting as obstructions while trying to seat the rotor with a mallet. Now, the probable cause is because of the possible deformation of the outer area of the hub that had bonded with the old rotors. I cleaned them up as best I could without ruining the hubs. So needless to say, got her down as far as I could but wasn't 100% certain. (was getting way too cold outside at the time).

So my question comes down to this. Can that in any way cause my rim to become bent? Might be a silly question, but can't think of anything else that would be the culprit. I have been noticing more vibration and even got my tires rebalanced. Saw first hand that my pass front rim was wobbly and bent.

So any input? Yes, a new rim is on my agenda, but am I going to have to fork out bookoo dough on a set of new hubs and rotors. Or, I'm open to any other advice.

Drive it to and from work with the occasional zoom zoom for the ladies No potholes and no "oops I hit a curb". (Aluminum rims/ 88 N/A GTU)
Old 03-31-04, 06:32 PM
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I'm sorry... I really couldn't read all that. If the issue is that the rotor won't draw up tightto the hub while the tire is off, its normal. When you put the tire on and torque the lug nuts, it draws the rotor up tight.

Try taking the tire off and see if the rotor is seated all the way. May take a couple days of heat + road dust to mount it in where it will stay when you remove the tire.

Anyhow.. I don't think it shoudl have any affect might have some nasty vibrations if it didn't seat right though.
Old 03-31-04, 06:34 PM
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New hubs are usually less than $50... it might have been easier just to replace the rotors and hubs, rather than trying to pull the old ones apart.

And yes, if the hub is damaged, it will feel like that wheel is un-balanced, but you probably wouldnt actually bend a wheel, unless it was torqued on wrong.
Old 03-31-04, 06:53 PM
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Icemark,

I think you just hit it on the money! Knowing I didn't seat the rotor on with 100% complete contact to the hub, Myself and a buddy of mine took turns cranking down on the lug nuts. That and the fact that my lugs weren't fully in place, I think the local tire joint cranked down on them as well. I feel like a complete idiot lol. Completely overlooked it! That would explain the bent rim. I mean it was torqued!

New rim plus hubs and rotors now? Where can I get them for 50? Thanks guys
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