converted

the autometer electircal temp gauge?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I am. So I don't see why you can't. Which model Autometer?

Scott 89t2

there is no way it'll give correct readings...

NZConvertible

The sensor has to match the gauge or it'll read wrong. The chances of the Autometer gauge's calibration matching the stock temp sender are slim to none.

silverrotor, I wouldn't trust that gauge until you get the right sender.

BobbyRX

They are absolutely correct. On some gauges you shouldn't even cut or splice the signal wires. This is a "thermocouple" device. It uses voltage instead of resistance to measure temp through a bi-metalic strip.

If you change any one thing in the system it should be calibrated using a pan of water, or hot oil comparing to a alcohol or mecury thermometer reading.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I find that the AM Gauge, In contrast or even correlation with the stock Water Temp Gauge remain consistent all the time. This Is with all new Cooling Sensors but the Water Temp Sender Unit In particular aswell as my Autometer Phantom Water Temp Gauge.

I know of AM's rep as being anything less than perfect, as compared to Defi, Greddy etc, but when the stock gauge Is In a given postion, my AM's numbers are too. Everytime.

The one thing that concerns me Is the relatively slower response AM's give me.

88IntegraLS

Off topic, but to activate a Fiero electric fan would you attach a relay to the water temp sensor? Or is there a temperature switch somewhere in the FC cooling system set at 170ish degrees f? Using only the water temp sensor would require some kind of voltage switch set to match the WTS voltage output at 170 . . .

NZConvertible

Buy an adjustable temp switch and use it to trigger a relay that feeds the fan directly from the battery via a fuse. That's the only way to wire an aftermarket electric fan.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

what about the stock electric fan? Doesn't it come on when coolant reaches like 165 or something? What are the conditions for it to turn on?

NZConvertible

It comes on at 207degF and switches off once it's dropped to 194degF, and runs also whenever the A/C's on. I'd rather leave the auxillary fan as just that. Extra cooling when required and as a boost for the A/C. An adjustable temp switch for the main fan keeps the two fans seperate to do their different jobs.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

it's that hot! woah, holy ****.

mine runs like ALL the time and my rad surface temps are never over 160 deg F

I think there's another condition or two that cause it to come on, as I've noticed that if the EGI fuses are pulled it turns on....

converted

silverrotor: I got a pro-comp electric water temp 2 1/16 gauge.

So everyone is saying that I cannot use the stock sensor?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Oops!!! I need to back up here. You want to use the stock Water Temp Gauge. Not the sensor that comes with It. I was reading your thread all wrong.

How come? You fell short of the Sensor when you picked up the Gauge?

Yes, using the stocker, In conjunction to the AM's Gauge will give you erroneous readings. Not to mention You ECU Is dependant of the Water Temperture Sender Unit, along with a few other sensors, without being "tampered" with.

Again, my apoligies on misreading your thread. You need to find a sensor for that particular Gauge!

NZConvertible

Yeah, it's there in case things get too much for the main fan to handle. Apart from when the A/C is on, it should barely be used. If your fan runs all the time I'd say something is broken. You should check the control box, relay and temp switch as per the instructions in the Cooling chapter of the FSM.

NZConvertible

The water temp gauge and the ECU use different temp sensors. So even if you use the stock gauge sensor for the Autometer Gauge (which will give false readings) the ECU will still be seeing the correct signal, as long as you haven't tampered with that sensor too...

SaabGuy

You can make the aux electric fan come on and stay on with the ignition by pulling the single green wire off the top of the thermostat housing.