Picture links below of flywheel, pressure plate and main bearing, in that order. The flywheel has been resurfaced once already and displays small heat cracks (I know they are hard to see in the pic). The pressure plate looks good to me, but what the hell do I know. 3rd, what do you think of this main bearing? The other bearing is about the same.

Are there any tests, measurements I can do on the flywheel and pressure plate to see if they are within specs? I haven't micked the bearing yet.

Flywheel
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...o/flywheel.jpg

Pressure Plate 1
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...re_plate_1.jpg

Pressure Plate 2
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...re_plate_2.jpg

Main Bearing
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...in_bearing.jpg



thanks for your input

 

wow, those pics compressed badly. sorry about that. The heat cracks on the flywheel are centered in the picture.

 

Looks like your P/plate ate some rivets...Wouldn't reuse that...

Bearing looks good from here, but that doesn't mean much...

Flywheel hard to tell...

 

Flywheel--judgement call. I don't like to used ones with even small cracks, but they'll usually be okay. IT WILL chew up a clutch disk much faster though, and it will likely chatter on engagement. IF you have or find something better, go with that. IF not, you can use whatcha got, but it's not the best idea. Unless you're running a metallic clutch disc, in which case it really doesnt matter :-)

Pressureplate...1 is normal throwout bearing wear, 2 looks pretty rough. I'd replace it if I could, but if you're using a metal disc then it wouldn't hurt to use it. OR, if you get an organic disc cheap and you don't care to replace it in 20-40k miles, go ahead.

Bearing...looks decent, hard to see. The wear on the seam is 100% normal.

 

Bearing: No clue

Pressure Plate: Looks nasty on the engagement surface, replace if possible.
Flywheel: That thing is fugly and heat cracks are something you want to stay away from, so if at all possible go get a replacement. Frankly that thing looks worse than the one in my 218,000 mile RX.

Hey if you have $150 in your budjet I suggest getting a clutch kit from Gripforce.com they basiclly have the OEM one for $150. The in-house one is cheaper but not by much.

 

Well, I might just go stock with the clutch disc and pressure plate. As for the flywheel I'm not sure. I can't go stock with it because they are way too expensive. Can anyone suggest some good flywheel deals? I saw a 14 pounder at fc3s.ord for pretty cheap, but I don't think I want to go that light. Is it really hard to drive a car with a 14 pound flywheel? I imagine dead starts might need some reving.

thanks for the input.

 

i have a exedy clutch and pressure plate for sale and a 2 stock flywheels in better condition than the one pictured. pm if intreseted or email mr23sgte@hotmail.com

 

I sent you a PM

 

Bearing - make sure you mic it, however, as Kevin points out its really normal wear. I am a proponent of measuring everything.

PP plate - toss and replace I use http://clutchexpress.com on a frequent basis. Dan, who owns the place will take the time to talk on the phone!

Flywheel - find one without cracks - not worth the hassle if its out already.

 

I am already replacing the rotor bearings, so I think I am going to replace the main while I'm at it. I'm actually having a lot of trouble getting one of the bearings out (I got the other out by pounding on it). Will a large vice do the trick or do I need a press. Has anyone ever made a rig job piece to push out bearings?

 

A LARGE vice is fine if you're careful. I like to use the big flywheel nut socket to press out the rotor bearings.

Press is always ideal though. You can actually make a cheap press with a bottle jack and some scrap metal...

 

I'm no expert on flywheels, but isnt a flywheel with cracks in it extremely dangerous?

-Joe

 

If they're only surface cracks they're usually fine.