Camberrrrrr!?!?!?!
01-12-08, 09:21 PM
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? /\ drive your Car over a Curb?..Holy ****...anyhow..Front camber can be Adjusted with Camber plates.The Rear camber can be adjust with Camber links..here is How to Install them(from www.mazdatrix.com ) http://www.mazdatrix.com/instruction...inkinstall.htm
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01-12-08, 11:39 PM
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Eccentric bolts, or crash bolts will work on the front, but to gain camber you'll be reducing wheel and tire clearance to the suspension. They are also known to slip over time, especially with aggressive driving and grippy tires. Camber plates are better for the front, but don't work with stock type springs, you need coilovers.
For the rear you can replace the center subframe link with an adjustable one and that's the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Those individual links are good to adjust out the uneven camber that exists on almost all cars, especially when using the central adjustment, but don't think that you can use only them. They cause the bushings to be twisted which will cause binding and might potentially be damaging, especially if you have harder than stock bushings. You can get some spherical bearings to eliminate this problem, but unless you do they really should only be used to even out the camber after setting it to the desired amount with the central link (adjust each one the same amount in opposite directions).
Next time do a search, it's been covered many, many, many times.
For the rear you can replace the center subframe link with an adjustable one and that's the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Those individual links are good to adjust out the uneven camber that exists on almost all cars, especially when using the central adjustment, but don't think that you can use only them. They cause the bushings to be twisted which will cause binding and might potentially be damaging, especially if you have harder than stock bushings. You can get some spherical bearings to eliminate this problem, but unless you do they really should only be used to even out the camber after setting it to the desired amount with the central link (adjust each one the same amount in opposite directions).
Next time do a search, it's been covered many, many, many times.
01-13-08, 04:09 PM
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I bought a set of Tein camber plates from Rishie at Auto RnD. They work perfectly with my Tokico HPs and standard strut-type springs (Eibach progressives), so they would also work perfectly with any stock-type springs. They allow up to about 1.8 deg neg camber up front with no slotting of mounting holes. It looks like the full-width springs would hit the strut tower before going much further. Maybe you could get 2.2-2.5 deg?
With the .75 drop from the springs, I have about 1.5 deg in the rear. With the 17x9 wheels I'm running shod with Falken Azenis RT-615s in 255-40/17 all around, my tire temps ran ~20 degrees higher inside than outside, indicating a need for less camber, not more. I think about 1.5 front/1.0 rear should be about right.
One thought I had is that maybe an eccentric bolt could be used to remove a little camber, while increasing wheel-to-strut clearance. (Is it possible to get them to stop shifting with Loc-tite or other threadlocker? ) Currently, I'm running a +15 offset in the front for safe strut clearance and it makes things pretty exciting when braking at speed...
With the .75 drop from the springs, I have about 1.5 deg in the rear. With the 17x9 wheels I'm running shod with Falken Azenis RT-615s in 255-40/17 all around, my tire temps ran ~20 degrees higher inside than outside, indicating a need for less camber, not more. I think about 1.5 front/1.0 rear should be about right.
One thought I had is that maybe an eccentric bolt could be used to remove a little camber, while increasing wheel-to-strut clearance. (Is it possible to get them to stop shifting with Loc-tite or other threadlocker? ) Currently, I'm running a +15 offset in the front for safe strut clearance and it makes things pretty exciting when braking at speed...
