What are some ways i can adjust the chamber on my fc? any help plz....

 

other than buying camber kits, notching is the only way i know if you have already adjusted to the max of factory tolerances.

 

why do you want to adjust the camber?

 

go drive into a curb a couple times.

 

? /\ drive your Car over a Curb?..Holy ****...anyhow..Front camber can be Adjusted with Camber plates.The Rear camber can be adjust with Camber links..here is How to Install them(from www.mazdatrix.com ) http://www.mazdatrix.com/instruction...inkinstall.htm

 

heres the ultimate and sure fire way to get the best camber adjustment possible without shelling out ANY money.............................









im being nice


peace

 

Buy the most expensive set of coilovers you can find /TIC

 

You can get offset bolts (make me nervous and I won't use them, but I have not heard of them failing).

They will allow small camber adjustments.

 

Eccentric bolts, or crash bolts will work on the front, but to gain camber you'll be reducing wheel and tire clearance to the suspension. They are also known to slip over time, especially with aggressive driving and grippy tires. Camber plates are better for the front, but don't work with stock type springs, you need coilovers.

For the rear you can replace the center subframe link with an adjustable one and that's the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Those individual links are good to adjust out the uneven camber that exists on almost all cars, especially when using the central adjustment, but don't think that you can use only them. They cause the bushings to be twisted which will cause binding and might potentially be damaging, especially if you have harder than stock bushings. You can get some spherical bearings to eliminate this problem, but unless you do they really should only be used to even out the camber after setting it to the desired amount with the central link (adjust each one the same amount in opposite directions).

Next time do a search, it's been covered many, many, many times.

 

why WOULDN'T you want to adjust camber...

 

What a relief. This is what the alignment shop recommended for me for the front right. I was afraid it was a ghetto mod or something when I saw the mazdatrix part (which is actually for the rear). Friggin' bent frame...

 

Those ONLY work for the front.

 

rucas

 

I bought a set of Tein camber plates from Rishie at Auto RnD. They work perfectly with my Tokico HPs and standard strut-type springs (Eibach progressives), so they would also work perfectly with any stock-type springs. They allow up to about 1.8 deg neg camber up front with no slotting of mounting holes. It looks like the full-width springs would hit the strut tower before going much further. Maybe you could get 2.2-2.5 deg?
With the .75 drop from the springs, I have about 1.5 deg in the rear. With the 17x9 wheels I'm running shod with Falken Azenis RT-615s in 255-40/17 all around, my tire temps ran ~20 degrees higher inside than outside, indicating a need for less camber, not more. I think about 1.5 front/1.0 rear should be about right.
One thought I had is that maybe an eccentric bolt could be used to remove a little camber, while increasing wheel-to-strut clearance. (Is it possible to get them to stop shifting with Loc-tite or other threadlocker? ) Currently, I'm running a +15 offset in the front for safe strut clearance and it makes things pretty exciting when braking at speed...

 

I don't think you can really stop them from slipping any way other than to mark their position and check it occasionally and reset it when it does move.

 

Red loctite keeps them in place....

 

we have a winner...