as title states

 

I wanna know too!

 

you can usually get about an extra 1 degree of positive/negative camber with a kit more or less, if that is the info you were looking for?


now i wouldn't suggest installing them unless you do an actual alignment with a machine because if you don't know what you are doing you can make your car handle way off and make it unsafe.

 

opinion: unless ur car is lowered, I don't think there is any benefit. If your car is lowered, there is a small benefit, if you autoX.

 

Get an alignment. Unless your camber is wayyy off.

 

i'm thinking about getting 17X7 rims wiht lo pros is why i asked sry for got to state that

 

If you drop the car more than an inch....that changes the way the car distributes the weight(IE, sits on the wheels). Kits are good if you go more than 1"

 

What "camber kits" are you talking about?

For fronts, don't mess with anything less than front camber plates.
For the rears, get the Racing Beat rear camber adjust bar or the rear camber links from Mazdatrix.

DON'T GET THOSE CHEAP *** CRASH BOLTS.
They will slip.
Don't be tempted by those eBay audtions for $5.


-Ted

 

Camber plates are a very nice, fairly inexpensive upgrade. FC owners have a variety of quality companies to choose from as well...HKS, Tein, Cusco among them. I've got a set of Tein's in my car - only good things to report. No noise, a wide range of adjustability and easy to install. Plus, you also get rid of the mushy old upper mount in the front. These companies should also offer rear units but they are just solid mounts, obviously not adjustable pieces. As Ted said, the racing beat/Mazdatrix route is a good choice for rear camber adjustment.

 

camber adjustment is always worth it. one degree is a big difference. especially if youre lowered. rear adjustment needs to be done, and youll have much better turn in capability.

 

Uh, ok.

Too much is not always a good thing.
Too much negative camber will prematurely wear tires.

(Rear) camber has nothing to do with turn-in...really.


-Ted

 

try a fatter sway bar rather than cambering out your tires, your tires should sit flat on the road. a sway bar will make your suspension work together rather than independently, unless you drive on rough roads where you want the tires to work independently.


more tire on the road=more traction.

 

That only works when you're turning.


-Ted

 

i assumed turning was the point of this thread, camber will cause a pull if it is out too much, otherwise the only affect it has in a straight line is also traction if your camber is off you aren't getting the most out of your tires.

+1 degree of camber is about perfect for most any application, the tire still sits flat and suspension busings take up the 1 degree while in a turn as well as geometry to lay the outer tire flat while in a turn. only reason anyone should need a camber kit is if they have been running into too many curbs while drifiting.