jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Ok, 2 calipers are frozen and I need to replace all 4 calipers, but I have had bad luck with most of the rebuilt or remanufactured replacements, except Motorcraft, which no longer rebuilds them. On my 3 cars I tried Raybestos, Dorman, Beck Arnley and Bendix. None seem to last very long and 4-piston new oem calipers at Mazdatrix are $579!!!. I searched and this seems to be common place that longevity sucks. I do see other brands out there but I am weary of them as well. Anyone had any good luck with a rebuilt/remanufactured caliper?? If so, where did you get them? I guess hit or miss expected no matter what brand? 90 Convertible.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

They do sell front and rear caliper rebuild kits at Mazdatrix... Not just new calipers.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I see those but if companies have the right tools and have little success getting it right, I figure my chances are slim.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

^ What do you mean by that? Their rebuild kits are of poor quality?? I've heard pretty good things about their caliper rebuild kits.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i bought my rebuilt calipers from advanced auto parts for about $40-$50 each (after core charge). they always have online coupon codes which give really good discounts.

https://shopping.billmelater.com/store/advanceautoparts

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I think you overestimate their expertise and underestimate your capabilities.

Rebuilding calipers requires little in the way of "special" tools.
You already have a 10mm flare wrench (you do, right?), all that's left is access to some compressed air and possibly internally expanding pliers (for the occasional really frozen piston).

In my experience, the most common problem with calipers is frozen bleeder screws.
I'd check those first and if free, try to rebuild the calipers yourself.
The kits are fairly cheap and if you fail, there's still enough left for a core exchange.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I suppose I could give it a try, but don't you need a hone? I rented a hone from Autozone once tears ago to do a cylinder on a motorcycle but using micrometers it was wavy. Eventually had a machine shop fix my mess.

solve_et_coagula

I work for oreillys and A1 cardone rebuild ours. Sometimes you can get wagnor rebuilt calipers.... I just havnt looked to see if they rebuild fc's.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Calipers and master cylinders are two different animals.
In a MC the seal is on the piston and travels through the bore, in a caliper the seal is fixed and the piston slides through it.
Basically, one doesn't bore calipers- if the body is so badly corroded as to affect the seal area, it's toast.
Usually, it's just new seals, lightly clean the piston, lube it w/ brake fluid and pop it back in.
New dust boot, finished.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I just got my remanufactured calipers for all four brakes. Is it best to replace one caliper at a time, bleed it, and then replace the next one, repeat? Or can I replace all 4 then bleed? I would think all 4 at once would have really hard time bleeding the air out.

After I'm done I gonna rebuild one myself.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Seems that this conversation is focused on front calipers, which are simple to rebuild and cheap to purchase outright if you choose to.

What about the rears? They seem much more complicated to rebuild and they are way more expensive if you try to buy them at the parts store.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The rears are even simpler than the front four pistons.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

What about the bleed question. Install one at a time, bleed, then go to next. Or replace all at once then bleed each? Which is the easiest way recommended as far as ease of getting air out?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I've always replaced them all at once and then bled, never found it to be a big deal.
I have speed bleeders on all four corners and usually bleed the car by myself.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Speed Bleeders are great and I use them as well. Since the rear calipers are new (rebuilt) units I have to bleed the lower fitting as well, which I have regular bleed fittings right now. Did the Autozone and Advance part places looking for two more speed bleeders, but they don't have them in stock.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

When I rebuilt my rear calipers I didn't even bother with the "lower" fittings, just the top.
I'm thinking those lower fittings just make the caliper body universal, no matter which side they're mounted on there's a fitting in the proper orientation.

southsidecox

iTrader: (52)

ive got CENTRIC brand rebuilt for my frt and rears,sae as yours 88GXL,they appear at least to be high quality,looks like every single bit of hardware is new,pistons,even the bolts that hold the caliper halves together,cant wait to install them

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Clokker, so are you saying you didn't even bleed the rear lower bleed fitting on a new caliper? So, I assume getting all the air out is possible from the top bleed fitting alone? Hope the answer is yes so I can start today.

I got Centric rotors (Power Slot) but was wearing of the calipers for some reason. The rotors are high quality.

southsidecox

iTrader: (52)

you dont need to bleed lower fitting because any air in the systym will always travel to highest point

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

FYI for anyone rebuilding their calipers. If you have cast iron calipers (not sure if the rears are or not, I've never even touched them in over 8 years of owning my car) then you can in fact hone them. If they're aluminum, don't even bring that stupid hone anywhere near them. Honing calipers is not for removing pits, it's pretty much only for cleaning them up just a little. If they're pitted badly then they are junk, as Clokker said.

Everything gets cleaned with surgical precision, and you only lubricate the internals with brake fluid. I did a writeup for rebuilding the rear calipers on a GSL-SE. Some stuff can still apply, obviously the parking brake stuff can be ignored.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/brakes-how-rebuilding-se-rear-calipers-855449/

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that write-up is excellent! I now can't wait to see inside my calipers, especially the rear ones being 22+ year old originals.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Crap! A/C Delco sent me two Left rear calipers. Box part numbers are correct for L & R, but each one has a L in it.

southsidecox

iTrader: (52)

theres no reason to hone brake calipers,the best way to clean is totally dissasemble,clean,inspect,beadblast with glass or other gentle media,clean well and reassemble,anyone can do it if there was scorring or heavy pitting on the piston cylinders you would just rebuild another caliper,also the piston can be reused much of the time if the chromelike surface is still good after cleaning,i use a scotchbrite pad for that part

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Rebuilt a rear with Agreens thread i think will look for pics. As far as replacing them, i find it easier to replace calipers and bleed farthest to closest to mc one at a time.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Well, this weekend is a wash. I'll now have to wait until I get the rebuild kits. My AC Delco calipers are junk. Got the two rear left calipers they sent me, and the front left caliper leaks past the bleed screw. I swapped out the bleed screw from the right side and it leaks too. When I install them both on the right side caliper there is no leakage. I normally use teflon tape anyway to prevent air sucking in past the threads, but I'm not going to rely on that for the primary sealing. Sadly, Made in America is no longer what it was.