buying t2 advice
buying t2 advice
Ok guys,so I'm looking at a 90 turbo II and it does have some extra parts on it,but for bigger stuff it has a rtek ecu chip and agx shocks and aluminum radiator. I would be paying 3k but it needs a rebuild. Has 170k on engine and chassis,but has had a rebuild 65k ago and that is the only rebuild he has told me about. But the main question is that it idles rough and doesn't go past 5-6k rpm. Sounds like a cracked seal? If so,do you think the housing and or rotor is damaged? Also,any recommendations on a rebuild kit?
Thanks for any input
Thanks for any input
The chassis of that car had better be in pristine shape for $3K. Typically a Turbo II with a blown engine sells for about $800 or so.
If the engine is having problems after only 65k miles, then the rebuild job was not done properly or it was abused, and therefore I would not be surprised if it has several junk parts at this point. Worst case scenario you are looking at about $6K in parts. I would not buy a 'rebuild kit' until the engine is disassembled and the parts are evaluated.
No way in hell would I pay $3K for that kind of risk, but to each his own.
If the engine is having problems after only 65k miles, then the rebuild job was not done properly or it was abused, and therefore I would not be surprised if it has several junk parts at this point. Worst case scenario you are looking at about $6K in parts. I would not buy a 'rebuild kit' until the engine is disassembled and the parts are evaluated.
No way in hell would I pay $3K for that kind of risk, but to each his own.
Oh geez,that's not sounding nearly as good anymore. It is a very clean car,the body is absolutely beautiful,but I haven't gotten to see in person,so I have no idea about interior or chassis. But at this point in time,I can't afford 6k in parts. Where can I go for a new engine entirely? Might be good to budget that on for worst case scenario.
Wait until you see it.
Oh, btw, I'm in Bemidji if you'd like someone to come with you. Ive dealt a ton with these cars, I'm no expert, but I've have enough to look for rust spots, common issues, etc.
Last edited by Jager; Apr 2, 2015 at 07:37 AM.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
$3k..for a Blown up car?..
I can sell you a Bridge!
I'll tell you right now to stock up on Tylenol because you are just going to be getting another person's headache.
(pass it up.)
Jager's a good guy so If he is offering..I'd take him up on it!
I can sell you a Bridge!
I'll tell you right now to stock up on Tylenol because you are just going to be getting another person's headache.
(pass it up.)
Jager's a good guy so If he is offering..I'd take him up on it!
Trending Topics
Wait a minute, there are lots of things that could cause similar symptoms, so why automatically assume the nuclear option?
If the chassis/interior is in good shape it's certainly worth some investigation into the engine.
And anyway, all this talk about $800-1000 unmolested cars certainly doesn't apply around here...just ask spectre.
The only $800 car in these parts has a tree growing through the floor.
If the chassis/interior is in good shape it's certainly worth some investigation into the engine.
And anyway, all this talk about $800-1000 unmolested cars certainly doesn't apply around here...just ask spectre.
The only $800 car in these parts has a tree growing through the floor.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
prices in our area are weird, the junkyard is actually willing to pay top dollar for some reason. they bought a running but not smog passing S5 for $2000.
the last S5 T2 i know about went for $2500, it was originally blue, repainted pretty well in red. ran but had a blown water seal.
if i was looking, i'd make sure that the engine is or isn't blown before i jump to any conclusions, and since you're northeast enough, look for rust/bondo etc.
the last S5 T2 i know about went for $2500, it was originally blue, repainted pretty well in red. ran but had a blown water seal.
if i was looking, i'd make sure that the engine is or isn't blown before i jump to any conclusions, and since you're northeast enough, look for rust/bondo etc.
My priority list for a new 7 would be:
- Straight, unrusted chassis with no crash damage.
(Dented panels would be considered separately, with less weight given to replaceable panels (fenders, etc.) then the body shell itself.)
- Reasonable paint.
- Complete, reasonably nice interior.
- Engine.
- Straight, unrusted chassis with no crash damage.
(Dented panels would be considered separately, with less weight given to replaceable panels (fenders, etc.) then the body shell itself.)
- Reasonable paint.
- Complete, reasonably nice interior.
- Engine.
Wait a minute, there are lots of things that could cause similar symptoms, so why automatically assume the nuclear option?
If the chassis/interior is in good shape it's certainly worth some investigation into the engine.
And anyway, all this talk about $800-1000 unmolested cars certainly doesn't apply around here...just ask spectre.
The only $800 car in these parts has a tree growing through the floor.
If the chassis/interior is in good shape it's certainly worth some investigation into the engine.
And anyway, all this talk about $800-1000 unmolested cars certainly doesn't apply around here...just ask spectre.
The only $800 car in these parts has a tree growing through the floor.
I think everyone does the "I know a guy who bought one for (insert low price)."
I overpaid for a great condition GXL. Hell, I just overpaid for a 4.88 gear with a torsen. Part of the area.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
If i were you i'd bring a compression tester and let that help you decide, the engine could be healthy, but, you could play it off 
But yes, T2s are getting hard to find now days, if your looking for a project, buy it, if you want a daily and the wallet is tight, honestly, i'd be looking for a N/A, turbo 7s are always sniffing your pants where the wallet sits, ESPECIALLY when your buying it from someone who doesn't know the car, which is what sounds like your case with the seller

But yes, T2s are getting hard to find now days, if your looking for a project, buy it, if you want a daily and the wallet is tight, honestly, i'd be looking for a N/A, turbo 7s are always sniffing your pants where the wallet sits, ESPECIALLY when your buying it from someone who doesn't know the car, which is what sounds like your case with the seller
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
risingsunroof82
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
8
Sep 7, 2015 01:11 PM







