Hi,

currently im starting to feel the bug for RWD. I currently have a rediculous Honda Prelude running a JDM H22....... FWD is great but the time for RWD is comming near at hand......

i have allways liked the 2nd Gen Turbo II look. I found a Turbo II rx7 with a great body and a blown engine for about 1,300. Im just looking for a shell as right after i get it ill be dropping this in..... http://www.jspecautosports.com/catal...px?prod_id=168

Question, and i checked the FAQ and didnt see to much.
What are some things i should know about rotory work. I swaped my Own H22a into my prelude, but thats a whole different ball game........

What are things i should do, i assume right away start fresh and replace the apexi seals, MM size?

how is the rear end? i have a qualif on my lude and i have loved that LSD.

i live in chicago and it gets ***** cold in the winter time. I have heard that RX7s dont like the cold.

Its either an RX7 or a 240SX SR20 build. I would rather do the RX7 but im not sure how comlicated it is to learn the mysterys of the ****.....

any tips would be appreciated......

 

well, if its got a blown engine - don't buy that j-spec you had the link to, just rebuild the one thats in the car now.

There's no problems with running these cars in the winter other than starting, traction and driveability issues I've only ever ran my dd N/A in the snow - never my TII. I wouldn't *really* recommend running a boosted 7 around in the white stuff, just get a beater.

As far as learning the nuances of the rotary, it just takes time. If you're goign to be ruebuilding that engine yuorself, you'll learn alot off the get go.

However, I would always recommend that if you ARE thinking of buying one.....spend some money on a real decent, real clean TII. the last thing you want to do is buy a "good deal" with a blown engine, rebuild it, have to wheel bearings in it, suspension, brakes, brake lines, fuel lines, electrical nightmares AHHH - just spend another 1500-2000 and you'll have a car that you won't even have to TOUCH for years, other than any upgrades you want to do.

 

Do the SR20 build, youll be happier.

 

I didn't buy a turboII but I thought I was getting a good deal and I have ended up almost replacing hte whole car. Not thats its a bad thing but if I look back on everything I might have just bought that first gen mr2 and dropped the 4agze in it.

I still love rotary engines and rx7s but you gotta really ask yourself how much money you want to spend. Some guys get lucky and get a rx7 with no problems and they can drive it for years to come. And there is me ^_^, I am still happy that I bought a rx7 though. I learned so much it's hard to believe.

goodluck

 

well.... the body is good.......... the suspension is going to be rebuild anyway for track and the interior will be gutted with a cage for SCCA and track days......

little things like W.B. dont scare me as i can replace those no problem. Breaks and lines are all going to be redone and probably change every 2-3 events anyway......

as for the car i found, The tranny is busted and the tubro is also shot. He said it runs, but the wastegate is stuck open and he cant shift into 3rd and he has no power and it dies if you let off the gas.........

i would really rather start fresh with a new tranny - engine - rear end that i build up myself......

Here are some specific questions
1. Rear end, is it good or should i beef it up with a good LSD
2. Tuning, i know honda tuning, but only for NA and nitous setups.... i have worked with VAFC's and Hondata..... i assume RX-7s have their own good tuning tools
3. Intercooler, I will probably leave the turbo stock for now... Vmount? Front Mount? stock?
4. Apexi Seals 2mm? 3mm? advantages and disadvantages
5. Removing things like PS/AC/ABS.... i did it for my lude and never looked back. Freed up a lot of space in the engine bay and some power. I know the RX7 is allready well ballanced.... is it as important as with a 58%-42% weighted prelude?

 

Don't buy it.

Even though you think you'll do all these things to this car, trust me, its sooo much easier, cheaper, faster and better to just start out with something clean. But you don't have to take this advice, I just know that a car, especially a 7, thats a little rough around the edges - is ALWAYS way more rough everywhere else.

And just a question, you are SREIOUSLY going to change you brake lines every 2-3 races???

Specifc questions
1. The TII diff is fine - I've seen 450hp FC's use a stock S4 diff without issue.
2. Tuning tools - the ultimate is obivously full standalone. There are really not many options other than things like the R-tek (a programmed ECU for minor mods) or standards like emanage, safc, HKS AIC's etc....
3. I/C - the stock topmount will be good on a stock turbo for up to about 12psi, after that you're just cramming boiled air into the motor.....a front mount is always a good idea, even on the stock turbo.
4. search that exact term anywhere on this site and you'll find HORDES of info on the differences, and +'s and -'s (this thread will turn south if we go down that road)
5. Removign those items free's up space and a minescual amount of power. Its pretty well same **** different pile in comparison to the honda. Keep only what you feel you want.

 

sorry... the SS lines will stay every events.... but the Pads and rotors and probaby fluid will change......

that would be crazy to change the lines every event...... lol

 

Turbos are better than N/A. Get the FC!!!

 

the SR20 is also turbo.... i was looking for more reasons why, aside from the me liking the Turbo 2 body a lot more, i should get the FC

 

Well, to be honest they are both good platforms. The biggest reason that I (or most rotary owners) own them is simply because its got a rotary. The platform/drivetrain and everything else is good, but its not vastly superior to a chassis like the nissan's in any real way.

If you're passionate about being able to smoke a V8 with less displacement then the amount of water you drink in a day - then get the FC!!!

 

to be honest... i love being able to show Rustags and Non LS1 V-8s my tail lights with only a 2.2 L (reving and making power all the way to 8300 rpms, got to love JUN cams)......

i would love for them to say, "hey, what is that a V8?" and for me to answer, 1.3L........... and then off i would go to my next adventure.....

 

yeah it is a great feeling!

And the "no pistons" line really throws them for a loop. But like I said, the main reason *most* people buy them is simply the rotary novelty and exclusiveness. The chassis' are great platforms and very capable, but Im not gonna lie to you and tell you its the best thing you can possibly buy. It is however, one of the cream of the crop.

The decision is up to you (obviously). Just don't get discouraged if you do decide to buy a fix-er-up-er and end up having the thing torn down completely before its ready to use. Thats the main reason people think these cars are junk after owning one - they bought a piece of ****. Which is why I ususally recommend to someone starting out to just suck it up and spend that little extra, because there's no way you can buy a $1500 car and make it into the same kind of shape as a fully certifiable, running, driving, boosting and stopping RX for $3500 for the 2000 dollar difference.

 

Dude, get that FC TURBO. F*CK the sr20 even though, its a real nice setup and my friends got s13s and s14s. I'm jus sayin f*ck it, because the rotary is bad azz. This **** has VERY GOOD POTENTIAL on autox or drag or drifting. It can do it all, and looks hella sick. This car is my dream car and now I have it. I can say, I am a lot happier now that I have it. I turned down a brand new 04 Mazdaspeed Miata which my dad offered to buy me(cuzz he doesn't like the fact no one fixes rotaries where we live), and I have no regrets. If you really want a Rx-7, then get it. Plus the rebuilds are cheaper especially if you do it yourself. Just try to tune it right and get advice and opinions sometimes, so you dont blow apex seals from lean conditions. btw, the learning process is not really as hard as other people say, its all about starting over just like when you first learned hondas. most people are too lazy to learn how the rotary works, because its only useful to the 7. But a true enthusiast would.

 

Yea, if you really want to stand apart from your friends or what not. It's really unique.

 

While I'm not gonna say to get great condition one, the one your talking about does sound like bad news. I would at least get one thats in decent shape mechanically, because there's no reason to have to mess with a whole new tranny as well. I guess if that one you linked to comes with a tranny, then go for it.
These engine are suprisingly simple once you see them apart. They are much simpler to rebuild than a piston engine. You cant beat 3 moving parts. I would caution you about getting a j-spec, but it sounds like you are planning on rebuilding it, which is a good idea. Get the rebuild video from www.atkinsrotary.com or www.rotaryaviation.com to see how to do it.
As for the driveline, there are people with stock transmissions and rear ends putting down over 450 to the wheels with no problems. S4 turbos have a clutch-type diff and s5's have a viscous diff. You can also swap in the internals from a FD torsen diff.
Also, it is highly recommended to keep the engine within the same series, either s4 (86-88) or s5(89-91). Otherwaise you have to change out ALL electronics, not just the stuff in the engine bay, and its just generally more trouble than its worth.

 

Yep, I'm throwing a series 5 motor into my series 4 TII. I might have to go standalone on this one just to avoid the wiring mumbojumbo.

 

Btw, Do Not Buy From Jspecautosports. I Got A Seized Motor From Them.

 

you should checkout the clean S4 TII for in the for sale section. (shameless plug) It's already been rebuilt and passes emissions. It's a great place to start.

 

the jspec motor ur gonna buy is a s5 and the shell that ur gonna buy is a s4. juss think about it for a minute