Ok guys... So this is the second pump I went through. What a ******* bad day, finding the pump blew just topped it off, and its only 5pm.... I guess im wiring the ports open until I can afford a new pump or to rework the entire system again.

 

What's wrong with the normal air pump (that's supposed to be on the car?)

 

what pumps are you using???

 

wayne - long gone
Icemark - same as silverrotor's setup, which is the same as sureshot's setup. Niether of them have had any trouble to my knowledge.

I too the actuators out and wired them open. Its frustratign that the pump went out again. You can here the motor brushes/windings shattered inside. Same thing happened to the old one. I thought it was heat related, so I mounted this 2nd one in front of the radiator instead of near the exhaust manny on the strut tower.

I had it rigged so it worked fine. Had a air bleed off and everything. Not sure what caused it. It could be the near full-minute runs with the pump running at high rpms on the highway, but even then i wouldn't think it would burn out.

The pump had been installed only 2-3 weeks.

 

Don't know much about you guys' setups, but do you have some form of pressure relief system built in so that once the ports are open, the pump can push just enough to maintain them open, yet still have "flow", so that the motor won't burn up? In other words, an "exhaust" system, much like the ACV, so that when the air pump's capacity is not fully used, no "back pressure" develops...

 

I had a relief/bleed setup worked into the system. It appaered to be working fine, and the pump never snapped a 15amp fuse. When developing and testing the system 6 months ago, I was blowing 35amp fuses because of the lack of a air bleed/relief. Once it was installed, The system never drawed more than 15 amps-- probably far less infact.

 

are these the air horn pumps???

if so they are really not designed for long term use (frankly I would be very surprised if they lasted even 2 months), and are very very easily damaged by both water and heat.

 

yeah... I guess

Any ideas icemark about rigging something else? I'm really not looking forward to sourcing the air pump and bracket, and really *reall* not looking forward to seeing another pulley on the engine :/

 

Because that would be the logical way to do it, and that's just not the done thing around here...

 

Kenteth

Go to walmart back in the auto section and get a campbell hausfield 12vdc air compressor. IT costs 10 bucks and is readily available. IT plugs into your cigarrette lighter. Cut off the plugs and take the motor out of teh case. This is meant for sustained use, an airhorn motor is not, and will fail quickly. Ask me how I know.

 

dont those thigns run at insanely high pressures?

 

Not really, no. IT barely has the power to air up a tire. I modify them slightly, anyway, so they do not hold quite as much pressure. I've yet to have one tear up, and I've yet to have one pop off a hose or tear up a diaphragm in the actuators. THere's a writeup on the webpage that shows how I do mine. Might give you some ideas. Especially the vent to vacuum when the solenoids switch off, which improves actuator response (snap open, snap shut).

 

vent to a vacuum, thats a very interesting idea...

so you just crack those units open and pull the motors out?

 

yup, look at the writeup and you'll see the motor itself.

 

don't you love it when you read something and then you're like "how the hell didn't i think of that"

edit:

just went through it: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...elec6port.html

and well, i need to try this hehe. the vacuum part is a very nice touch as well.

 

Yes, but this was far from that case. I always considered those portable compressors that put out "250pis" overkill for a diaphram that wants only 4-5psi at a couple cfm...

though using a solenoid to switch the relief falve to vacuum is an awesome idea imo, wish I'd thought of it sooner

 

Damn I'm good

 

the other approach would be to use an electric smog pump from a late model GM V8 like on a vette or camero/firebird...

of course then you have to wonder why the stock air pump is missing anyway if you are installing another...

 

Plus those are pretty expensive. I dunno-- I may just rig up an exhaust activation when i get makenzies setup here *cough*cough*

 

nah.. usually less than $20 on ebay

 

I am converting to electric aux/vdi soon. I am going to use 2 Lumbar pumps. This is what andrew lohaus did:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/ultimate-fully-electric-aux-vdi-solution-294539/

 

again not a pump designed for long term use, but rather very brief injections

 

Woot, after two months, I'm finnaly getting around to fixing the problem. I heeded Landers's Advice on what type of pump to use. I was searching in storage bringing out winter clothes this weekend and found an old christmas present: 12v air compressor

My wiring is a mess, so its taking a bit longer than I expected. Its pretty ghetto looking, but I'm mounting it in front of the radiator, so It'd be pretty damn hard for this thing to overheat at WOT unless I'm just spinning the tires.

The compressor packaging says after ten minutes of constant use you have to let it cool for ten minutes. Anyhow, I'm looking for my old wiring diagrams on how to wire a relay to negative switch so I can rig'er up to the stock ECU.

Hopefuly this thing will kick out enough air.

I'll post back when Ig et it working.

EDIT: Note for future ref.

Negative switch, positive motor
30: 12V Posi - Will be 87
85: Loop from 30, 12V posi - Relay power
86: Negative switch
87: 12V Posi to motor - came from 30

Negative switch, negative motor
30: 12VNeg Ground - Will be 87
85: 12VPos - Relay power
86: Negative switch
87: 12VNeg to motor - came from 30



S5 Soleniod Identity
S5 N/A: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...r+solenoid+vdi
S4/S5 TII: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/EM/solenoids.htm (not that anyone with a tii is trying e-aux port.)

Ignition switched common solenoid posi: black/white

 

Neat. I do believe I'll be doing that on my S4 NA here at some point... I have the RB presilencer and it supposedly works, but I'm not fully convinced of it working at the proper RPM (and the grease test just tells you that they open, not when), and I really don't like having to rely on exhaust backpressure to open the ports.

-=Russ=-

 

Yo - Kenteth - Do you remember something about having a 5th gear?
I'm not good at geography - Are there mountains to climb near Rapid City?

I suppose I never had a problem with the air horn pump because I never stayed over 3600RPM for long periods.

I guess that's another benefit of Florida - it's all flat..
When I was cruising at 95 in 5th the air pump was off.

The NA is still zipping around, the new owner seems to be taking care if it.