I'm no engineer, but am currently taking a automotive brake systems class.

The function of the brake system is to convert kinetic energy into heat energy through friction. The bigger the disc the more heat it can absorb. They don't reduce pressure on pads or increase life. You can reduce pressure by.... letting off your brake pedal! You want to increase life? Do less stop and go.

 

I keeping reading about brakes., but no one has mentioned the most important point. It doesn't matter how good your brakes are, it's your tires. Your tires stops the car. >>>> Synergy <<<<

 

Good point Fatal, tires do play a big role in stopping.

 

stock 4pot front calipers are awesome.

 

So i was planning on getting X-Drilled/Slotted Brembo Rotors, Greenstuff pads, SS lines and rebuilding the stock 4 piston calipers.


However, i have learned a couple of things on this thread.

Apparently, Hawk pads are better than Greenstuff.

X-Drilled is a waste of money because they will die sooner from cracking or exploding.



So heres my new brake upgrade then. Brembo Slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, SS lines, and rebuild the stock 4 piston brake calipers.

 

Brembo blanks, stock calipers, Hawk HPS pads and Goodridge SS lines. Put all of that on my car this weekend.

 

Ok never said i was an expert, But do have a first in mechanical Engineering. After digging out book a book i can confirm that the fiction Equation stands up!!

Earlier I stated, Friction force = coeffiecient of friction x The normal force

(normal force refered to as actuation force in braking and clutch analyse)

also that bigger brakes work by increasing the distance from centre of rotation.
Therefore braking torque = frictional force times x distance at which that force acts.

The Book i have is Mechancial Design by Peter R.N.Childs (look up Childs he is held in high reguard)

Attached is the page refering the disc brakes

Childs combined both of the above formula to form

Braking Torque = Coefficient of friction x actuation force x effective radius (this means distance of centre of pad from centre rotation)

 

Ok now check this, laws of Friction

 

frankly i dont know how bite is effected by the type of disc

Glazing occurs when the pad exceeds it's max temp, So as i mentioned before drilled and slotted will help cooling and prevent glazing when comparing with solid discs, But on the road solids are more durable and the difference is barely noticable

Oh and sorry if spelling is bad, i just write fast and if i make mistakes i don't go back to correct because whats the point, you know what i mean.

 

I'm pleased w/ my Porterfield R4-S or whatever they are, theyre the street pads.

havent had the chance to track them though

 

try some motul 600 fluid, ss lines, and some brake ducts.
awrracing.com makes some backing plates that have 3" brake ducts on them.


also some sort of heat protection between the pad and piston (backing plate most often) can help w/ heat absorbtion into the fluid.

and yes, don't buy crossdrilled unless it wont see the track at all. they're lighter, but will crack if you put them through the ringer.