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Which brakes do you guys recommend

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Old 02-20-07, 07:13 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tomoaac
The reason discs are increased in size is to reduce the pressure on pad and disc, therefore increase life!!
I'm no engineer, but am currently taking a automotive brake systems class.

The function of the brake system is to convert kinetic energy into heat energy through friction. The bigger the disc the more heat it can absorb. They don't reduce pressure on pads or increase life. You can reduce pressure by.... letting off your brake pedal! You want to increase life? Do less stop and go.
Old 02-20-07, 08:45 AM
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I keeping reading about brakes., but no one has mentioned the most important point. It doesn't matter how good your brakes are, it's your tires. Your tires stops the car. >>>> Synergy <<<<
Old 02-20-07, 09:03 AM
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Good point Fatal, tires do play a big role in stopping.
Old 02-20-07, 09:45 AM
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stock 4pot front calipers are awesome.
Old 02-20-07, 12:39 PM
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So i was planning on getting X-Drilled/Slotted Brembo Rotors, Greenstuff pads, SS lines and rebuilding the stock 4 piston calipers.


However, i have learned a couple of things on this thread.

Apparently, Hawk pads are better than Greenstuff.

X-Drilled is a waste of money because they will die sooner from cracking or exploding.



So heres my new brake upgrade then. Brembo Slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, SS lines, and rebuild the stock 4 piston brake calipers.
Old 02-20-07, 12:40 PM
  #31  
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Brembo blanks, stock calipers, Hawk HPS pads and Goodridge SS lines. Put all of that on my car this weekend.
Old 02-20-07, 01:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
you misapplied the Coulomb friction equation to brake rotor structure, and you are oblivious to the bite and glazing issues. I don't think anybody minds if you express your opinion on this forum, but attempting to represent yourself as an educated expert on this subject is rather far-fetched in my opinion.
Ok never said i was an expert, But do have a first in mechanical Engineering. After digging out book a book i can confirm that the fiction Equation stands up!!

Earlier I stated, Friction force = coeffiecient of friction x The normal force

(normal force refered to as actuation force in braking and clutch analyse)

also that bigger brakes work by increasing the distance from centre of rotation.
Therefore braking torque = frictional force times x distance at which that force acts.

The Book i have is Mechancial Design by Peter R.N.Childs (look up Childs he is held in high reguard)

Attached is the page refering the disc brakes

Childs combined both of the above formula to form

Braking Torque = Coefficient of friction x actuation force x effective radius (this means distance of centre of pad from centre rotation)
Attached Thumbnails Which brakes do you guys recommend-scan0002.jpg  
Old 02-20-07, 01:20 PM
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area Friction

Ok now check this, laws of Friction
Attached Thumbnails Which brakes do you guys recommend-friction.jpg  
Old 02-20-07, 01:26 PM
  #34  
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frankly i dont know how bite is effected by the type of disc

Glazing occurs when the pad exceeds it's max temp, So as i mentioned before drilled and slotted will help cooling and prevent glazing when comparing with solid discs, But on the road solids are more durable and the difference is barely noticable

Oh and sorry if spelling is bad, i just write fast and if i make mistakes i don't go back to correct because whats the point, you know what i mean.
Old 02-20-07, 02:09 PM
  #35  
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I'm pleased w/ my Porterfield R4-S or whatever they are, theyre the street pads.

havent had the chance to track them though
Old 02-20-07, 02:11 PM
  #36  
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try some motul 600 fluid, ss lines, and some brake ducts.
awrracing.com makes some backing plates that have 3" brake ducts on them.


also some sort of heat protection between the pad and piston (backing plate most often) can help w/ heat absorbtion into the fluid.

and yes, don't buy crossdrilled unless it wont see the track at all. they're lighter, but will crack if you put them through the ringer.
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