Markd01

Need brake upgrade advice for my 1986 NA. 4 lug. Upgrading to 16" wheels. Again thanks for your time.

Icemark

get some good brake pads

adamlewis

Yeah...Id get some better pads too.

I used to think that the bigger rotor was always better, but unless youre driving habits are overheating your rotor to the point of brake fade, youd probably be better off with higher performance pads ( Even then, you could just custom make some ducting to help cool your brakes... ). Wider, stickier tires can also help with braking too.

Ni5mo180SX

5 lug conv?

fastrotaries

um better pads go a long way, and maybe some SS lines if the stock ones are shot. hold of on the conversion, and do these first, since they're cheaper and you may be happy with them.

Markd01

Thanks. That's the kind of advice I need. I do appreciate your oppinions. Thanks

Markd01

What about slotted rotors, kevlar pads, etc ceramic? Any opinions?

adamlewis

Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk.

Icemark

Generally not worth the money or reduced rotor life on the FC.

West TX RX-7

Pads and braided lines are going to help you the most without breaking the bank. Pads first and if you have the money the lines will sure help pedal feel and consistency. Hawk HPS is a good pad so is EBC green stuff, I hear Endless is good also.

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

I would have to second the pads and stainless lines upgrade. Pads you get from any general auto parts store are harder than rocks and dont really handle heat that well.

Stainless lines are prolly the best thing you can do to make your pedal feel firm and stiff.
Your stock lines will flex and contort under heavy braking, thus giving you a crappy pedal feel.

blind

i always wondered if some kids try and drill homemade holes in there rotors what would happen. i dont wanna do that to my car becuase most likely there are pretty bad results but eh figured ill ask.

yea def breake pads, and brake lines wayyyyy before rotors.

Markd01

Thanks! Great website. Can't tell you how many hours of trying to figure this stuff out on my own has already taken. Appreciate all input.

Ni5mo180SX

With the 5 lug conv. you can then use the 4 piston calipers on the higher end models as well as larger and vented rotors front and rear. Id probably upgrade to this then try to work with the single piston assembly.

bingoboy

he would have to convert to the 5lug setup first.

Ni5mo180SX

Yea I already suggested that. I was just reinforcing my point as to why thats the better choice.

Markd01

How or where can I pick up conversion? More recomendations as to manufacturers? This has always sounded as if it would be a good/smart upgrade.
Thanks

Icemark

See I don't believe in upgradeding to the 4 piston fronts unless you have added a significant weight to the car or you have a big desire for less sprung weight at each wheel.

The single piston brakes have more than enough stopping power for most applications and there are several (both autoX and track/road racers) that use the single piston all the time.

Its only as the car starts approaching the 2800+ lbs/ weights that the 4 piston will make any difference.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Get some Ford Spec brake fluid, dry point 550 degrees. Wicked stuff. I was at the track and the pistons were pushing on the rotors. The boot in the caliper failed and the metal from the pad welded to the caliper, but I had NO fade!

IMO drilled and/or slotted rotors are for ricers or real racers. There are maybe 3 people on this forum who could actually use them and have some benifit. There are lots of people who are serious racers using typical brake rotors.

n4ji

iTrader: (1)

I'd go for the KVR brake pads. I just bought cross drilled and slotted rotors for my Olds Cutlass... They're nice, and have great reliability in wet and dry stopping. But they're just too damn expensive and don't think they're worth the money. BUT, if you do want them, just get slotted. They won't crack as likely as drilled, and plus they're more efficient than cross drilled.