alright so i just recently did a full brake upgrade on my gxl so the car now has these mods:
ate (or something?) DOT 4 fluid
hawk HP pads
mazdatrix SS lines
DIY MC brace

it seems that the feel of the brake pedal leaves a lot to be desired and doesnt feel much better from stock. i verified no pistons were seized and brakes were bled decently. it still seems like the pedal takes quite a bit of effort to stop the car even at low speeds. im figuring part of the problem could be my booster blowing it

my question is are there any other mods/tricks that have worked for you guys to help the braking feel better? its a 20+ year old car so im not expecting perfect

 

The brake fluid won't make any difference in brake performance the dot 4 helps stop paint removal when spilled and also stands up better under extreme heat conditions ( does not absorb moisture as much as Dot 3 , the pads might last a bit better but still not much better performance. The lines will help make a good safe system but I can't see there being much difference than stock if the calipers are stock . the brace will help keep the system solid under heavy braking but still not much change in performance . All things added together should make for a little better operation but nothing super . Did you have the rotors cut smooth or are they the same as before you changed the pads ? If the rotors are not cut it might take a bit of use to seat the new smooth brake pads to the uncut rotors . Even in good shape uncut rotors are still not matched to the new smooth pads . hope this helps. Make sure the air is totally bled out of the system . Gerald m.

 

New pads but i assume used rotors? I honestly hate doing that.

 

Try adjusting the input rod under the break pedal. There are a couple of locknuts on the rod you have to loosen to let the input rod out more. I had to do this on my gxl a few months ago. Its pretty straight forward and simple. Adjust in small increments to get the feedback you want.

 

^thats not how it works. Need a certain amount of free play and ****.

 

If you didn't noticed I stated very clearly, let the rod out in small increments. I let my input rod out about 3mm and it made a massive difference. If the master cylinder is getting worn out compensation needs to be made to introduce the correct amount of pressure into the braking system to circulate the fluid into the brake pistons.

 

Master cylinders do not "wear out and need compensation"....they work and then they don't.

 

You are correct, my mistake.

 

I dont know "about 3mm" is in the right specs is what im saying or " Adjust in small increments to get the feedback you want". In the manual it says something about the amount of pedal height and free play your suppose to be inbetween. Dont recall off hand but hey thats not all important right?

 

Correct the rotors were inspected for warping and if thickness was within factory specs but they were not replaced

If my booster is eating it that could explain the need for all the brake effort no?

Thanks for the input guys

 

Yes, as could a bad check valve.