Jaared

ok where is the best place to get the boost/vac reeding for the mech boost gauge. Is it the line that goes from the UIM to the blow off valve? here is a pic.. if this is it.. can i just put a "T" fitting in it?




ok now the tps question... is the green thing i need to test on the drivers side? its in the pic. ok what do i set my multi-meter to, i know ohms, but 20k 200k umm i dunno... when i touch one lead to the top and one lead to the bottom right one it dosent change the reading... it stays at 1.



my precat to mid pipe joint is where my exhaust leak is... and is leaking alot... burns your eyes just working around the car...
The stud is stripped so the nut cant be tightened to taken off.. gonna have to be cut. should i go to a dp now?

jaared

Spawn VII

boost guage:
mine is t-fitted on that same line, although i was wondering if it's better to tap into a vac line BEFORE the tb

tps:
yes that's the plug, i think you might have to set the dmm to 20 ohms, 20k and higher is too higher, maybe thats the problem

dp:
racing beat has this 2.5" dp that replaces the precat and the connecting pipe, and not too big to give u too high boost... its 3" version only replaces precat i think, and might make you boost too high and blow the engine, so you'll need to adjust the fuel a bit for the 3"

Jaared

ok i put the gauge in... at idle it reads 10vac.... its on stands now so im not sure what the boost gets up to.
is this low? i think i read that is needs to be 20.

ill post later when i find out, im bleeding the brakes now.

jaared

NZConvertible

You don't get vacuum before the TB, so you'd never connect a boost gauge that way. The BOV line is fine. No, that's not the plug you use! The green plug is only for using test lights if you have them. If you want to set the TPS using the voltage or resistance readings you have to measure the TPS itself. Follow the wires from the TPS to it's 3-pin plug. That's where you plug the DMM into. Set it to around 1V or 1k-ohm and then experiment to find the best results for your car.

Jaared

ok tested the tps... one light... so its good.
blead the brakes... they feel good!
throttle responce is getting a little bit better, but still really has crap for power, until it hits 6k.... then it sounds like another engine opening up.
From 2500-6k boost is builds to about 3psi or so.
From 6-7k boost is 5psi.

now from 6 to 7k it sounds kinda funny. keep in mind i do have a big exhaust leak at the precat to mid-pipe joint. it is kinda ta tah taAAAAHHH.

its hard to think how to spell how it sounds but it is seems weird... i think most of the sound is commin from the exhaust leak... but i gont think it should sputter like that. the boost dosent sputter but the car does.

Now whats up with the twin scroll thing? when does it do what it does... is that why i dont see boost in first till 6k?

my drive way is a semi steep hill. the car barley has power to make it up the hill. i have to balence on the clutch anbd rev it to 3500 or so to even have the guts.
from a stop if i rev it to 4k and try to launch, well it just bogs back down and then revs up slow as could be.

*What I Think:*
Maybe the cats are clogged. The precat and cat maybe? That would explain why sooo much of the exhaust is commin out the leak, And the total lack of power down low.

so what do you think.. cats? should i go all 3 inch? im getting a fcd soon, and i already got a walbro and boost gauge. I want to make power with this thing.
But i do need to drive it to work everyday. how will 3" dp and all effect that?

I read that 2.5" wont make that much of a difference in creating boost. Is this true?

Let me know what you think.

Jaared

bump

NZConvertible

I don't like the lights method myself. Most don't realise all you're doing is setting when the ACV solenoids (switching and relief) are on and off. If a perfectly working emission controls system is your aim, use the lights. Otherwise use a mutimeter on the TPS itself to find the point that gives you the smoothest on-off throttle transition. That's not good. Probably blocked cats, but it could also be... The twin-scroll flap blocks part of the exhaust flow below 2700rpm to make the turbo spool faster. If it's not opening you will lose a lot of power. Follow the check procedure in the FSM to make sure it's working properly. I had exactly the same problem on my steep driveway, and cured it by changing the plugs. Make sure they're good. 15yo cats are nearly always clogged... With a 3" system you are going to have boost creep problems. Period. You will first need to remove the turbo and port the hell out of the wastegate. A bigger flap is the best option, so you can get the port as big as possible. A seperate pipe for the wastegate also reduces boost creep. A 3" exhaust will simply let the engine make more power. How you use that power is up to you. If you drive exacly the same as you did before, you'll actually use less fuel, because the engine's overall efficiency is increased by the reduced restriction. However if you use your newfound power all the time, your fuel bill will be frightening. Not true. A 2.5" pipe is over 50% bigger than the stock 2" DP, which makes a big difference. I had a stock DP, no cat and a 3" dual cat-back. I've just fitted a 2.5" DP (with a seperate pipe for the wastegate) and the turbo spools up much faster because of the reduced post-turbine backpressure. Max boost isn't the only thing to look at. The quicker you make boost, the faster the car will be. By max boost only increased a small amount, but the difference in torque and response was excellent.