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Boost control questions

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Old 08-01-01, 09:03 AM
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Boost control questions

Hey guys, I have a MP on my new 88 T2 and will be doing a single hi flow muffler setup soon to go along with my intake, would I even need a boost controler? Are the home depot versions worth while? Any other advice is cool!
Thanks & happy motoring!
Old 08-01-01, 09:12 AM
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You wont need a boost controller. You may have too much boost when you open it up. Do you have a DP? What air filter are you using and have you done the TID mod. I was barely OK w/ a 2 1/2" DP/MP but I was choking it through the stock air filter assembly. I've upgraded to a '91 turbo and added the TID and cone and am creeping to about 9lbs. You'll go way over that w/ the '88 turbo's small wastegate.

A good boost controller would help you spool a little faster since it'd keep the wastegate shut till it hit the pre-set boost level. Problem is that if your creeping beyond the wastegates ability if you start higher earlier you'll creep farther. Hope that makes some sense.
Good luck,
Scott
Old 08-01-01, 10:10 AM
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Hello, & thanks! No I don't have a DP yet, I know I would need fuel upgrades if I went that route, so I am opening up the rest for now. I have the K&N type cone filter intake...I also plan on removing the air pump & going with a dual alt. pully. I just flushed the anti freeze and went with snythetics in the gear & tranny....Thanks again & any other advice is always appreciated!
Old 08-01-01, 10:15 AM
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Oh, I don't have the TID mod, but inquired about it at is it KRD site? They didn't seem to have it available yet, I emailed them but haven't gotten a response. I can do my own tuneups ect.ect. but would rather have a pre made setup for that mod. Did you make yours? (TID)
Old 08-01-01, 04:37 PM
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Originally posted by 87jap951
Oh, I don't have the TID mod

would rather have a pre made setup for that mod. Did you make yours? (TID)
Yes, it's pretty simple. You have to open vent the factory BOV w/ a check valve. I used a 1 1/4" sump pump valve w/ a 1 1/4 to 3/4 barb adapter. This makes a nice sound from the BOV.

Then get 2-3" rubber reducer to mount to the turbo and a blk pvc 3" 45deg street elbow. Cut the flange off the street elbow then use a 3" rubber connector to attach this to the AFM.

You can leave the pcv(not pvc) tube unhooked or do what I did and drill an exact size hole for the little aluminum check valve to fit in on the 45deg pvc elbow. You need to cut off the barb part of the check valve so it's a straight tube and epoxy it into the hole in the elbow, make sure it's facing the right way or it will block the wrong direction. Attach the rubber tube for the pcv and your set. My only problem is that I have lean spots down low under load causing some hesitation. Also a silicon reducer would be better but I think the rubber will last a couple years anyway.

Good luck, Scott
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