would you trust a bolt incage if in a crash?

i have came across a good deal on a 10point bolt in cage for my fc..

but was wondering what other people think of them?

i dont want too buy it and think that i am safe and have it fold on me if i were too have a crash..

cheers.

 

just find a trustable welder and get it welded in.

 

Properly done, it will be fine. I can't speak for rules in your class of racing though. Might be disallowed.

The key with a bolt in cage is to weld reinforcement plates onto locations where it bolts.

I'm probably going this direction with my car.

 

Absolutely NOT if it's a Cusco, they're designed by a drunk monkey. The front tubes have too many bends and will just collapse in a roll over and would NEVER be accepted by any sanctionning bodies. Also, their definitions of "points" are different than everyone else. To them a new point is added any time they add another bar to the basic 4 point bar. For instance a basic 4 point with 2 diagonals across the back would be a 6 point, where to everyone else it's still a 4 point, because it still only attaches to the chassis at 4 points.

Now if it's more like the Autopower bolt in cages then it'll be fine, but it won't be as close fitting or as strong as a weld in cage, but it'll be cheaper, faster and easier to install. Also, with a weld in cage you can get NASCAR door bars, extra door bars, extra diagonals, etc.

So if it's a good bolt in then it'll be ok, but if you want good or great, a custom weld in cage is the way to go.

 

If the roll cage is rated for your racing class, then it should be fine. Bolt-in roll cages that do not meet racing specs are ricer crap that will get you killed. As mentioned by Black91n/a, you can usually identify the ricer crap by the overly-bent bars that are designed to conform to the interior and look cool rather than to protect you.

If you are not racing and just want a cage for the street, then I recommend getting something that conforms to the SCCA specs, assuming that it is legal for street cars in your region. See page GCR-155 for roll cage specs. Also, the roll cage works in conjunction with the seat and restraints, so see the proper mounting of seat and restraints beginning on page GCR-79.
http://www.scca.org/documents/Club%20Rules/GCR2008.pdf

For comparison...

Roll cage designed to SCCA specs by an official NASCAR inspector working at a shop that specializes in fabricating movie stunt cars:


Roll cage designed purely for show cars. Note the dangerous S-bend, weak attachment points, and smaller diameter (most likely sub-standard material) bars:

 

I shudder everytime I see one of those actually installed in a car and I wonder why they're selling something that's so obviously flawed (I guess they're less litigious in Japan). I think it'd probably make the car more dangerous, rather than reducing any danger, because now you've got these tubes that'll collapse in on you in a roll over and give you all this extra metal to bash your head against with no benefits whatsoever.

I wouldn't install one in my own car or any other if you paid me a grotesque sum of money, because I honestly feel that it's unsafe.

 

BOLT IN CUSCO CAGE.

 

AFTERMATH

 

kirk racing, makes bolt in cages for FC, FD.I have a 4 point bolt in for my fc, fitment was decent, however, I had to have some platforms made in the rear for the cageto bolt into. I eventually want a full custom cage as evil has pictured, but they are quite costly!

 

That looked to be a rather gentle roll as these things go. It looks like it just sort of slowly rolled over onto the roof after it had basically stopped, not a very violent roll like can sometimes happen. The roof still looks like it's more or less in tact and it doesn't even look like it got crushed enough to even contact the cage. Not a real test of the Cusco "roll cage".

It really doesn't matter though, because it is a **** poor design that would not be accepted by any racing sanctionning bodies and I stand by my previous comments.

 

Wow, that driver was sure lucky to have a slow rollover like that. I guess in drifting you would tend to have a very mild rollover, hence the lax safety standards. There is no way that piece of **** rollcage would stand up to a violent rollover. I see that there is also no external battery cut-off, window net, or any other safety items.

Oh geez, I just noticed there is no padding on the bars! What a dumbfuck!

OK, based on that I am going to need to revise my earlier comment that anything that meets your racing class standard should be OK. Apparently that does not apply to such drifting events that appear to be run by morons.

 

dude its a BOLT IN ROLL CAGE!! YOU CANT COMPARE A BOLT IN PRODUCTION CAGE, to a CUSTOM BUILT WELD IN CAGE.. of course any bolt in will be considered crap..

Look at the cusco,.. its complete bolt in, hence why it has S bends... also alot of japanese cages are for chassis stiffening purpose, not mainly safety... Autoracing is dangerous expect to get hurt. The mounting areas on Autopower aint much better either.. they bolt to floor pan metal or wheel well area stuff on some applications, not solid hard parts.

Play it right and get a custom welded cage, still expect to get hurt but will be better then any bolt in.

 

No, the Cusco cage is crap, and a lot of ricer cages are designed for show cars purely for looks, not chassis stiffening. If you want me to go into chassis stiffening I can do that too, just to show how the Cusco is crap in that aspect also.

Compare with the Autopower bolt-in cage that is legal for SCCA and NASA because it isn't crap like the Cusco cage because it is made properly. Oh, and look at that, at the bottom of the web page you can order... roll bar padding! Apparently that concept is totally lost on those drifting morons.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=2407

Yes, a welded-in cage is better, but a GOOD bolt-in cage should be fine for low-level racing and autocross. You still need to put pads on it though.

 

It's not crap because of the mounting points, its crap because of the S bends, and because there's very little to no lateral bracing and triangulation. Truly a moronic design. Other bolt in cages just attach further back and go straight down, or go through the dash to be able to mount further forward. Cusco are the ONLY bolt in cage I've ever seen with the S bends in them. All the other cages are designed properly to the safety standards of racing sanctionning bodies. Even if you don't have to comply to the rules, it's a good idea to have the parts comply anyway, as it's a good base for a safe cage.

Actually, unless they've updated the bolt in cages, those Autopower ones aren't legal any more because they've only got the one door bar. The rules in SCCA and others now require two at a minimum.

The fact is Cusco "cages" are designed to be sold to people who don't know any better and mostly want it because it's "cool". The sooner you face up to the fact that you got con'd and bought crap, the better, because then you can get something that'll actually help protect you. Besides, I'm pretty sure the Cusco "cages" are more expensive than an Autopower or Kirk bolt in cage, so it's doubly dumb to buy one.

 

i dont give a **** , people will buy what ever they want, ill die in my car w/ cusco cage, YES!!!

no better way to die, except maybe in some *****.

 

in saying all these about the different types of bolt in designs..

if i needed different bars for different mounting points too be legal.. if i'm correct there shouldn't be much hassle too remove a couple of bars and add different angles or add a couple more too the design if a get a decent welder too do the work?

correct me if i am wrong please.

 

It really depends on the base design. Maybe it doesn't use tubing that's legal, like it may be too small in diameter, the walls may be too thin or it may not comply to some other rules, like here ERW (Electrical Resistance Welded, you can tell because it has a seam) tubing is no longer legal and it needs to be DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel, it's seamless) to be legal. You also really need to cut away the tubes at their joints/mounting points, and not just cut and weld them mid span. Adding tubes, like adding a second door bar is no big deal, but I'd shy away from having to modify it to fit, might as well get something better to start with.

drftwerks: We're just trying to help by pointing out that what you have is unsafe, so that you might be able to change it to something that is safe before it's too late, but if having something shiny blue with a Japanese brand name in your car is more important to you than your safety, then I guess there's no helping you because your priorities are seriously messed up. At least pad the thing, please, for your safety and for the safety of your passenger.

 

OP:

You need to put in a cage that complies with whatever form of racing you intend to do, welded or bolted (I know NHRA allows both). If you are putting one in just because it looks oh so cool, then please DONT. It will kill you.