2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Blown coolant seals = coolant in combustion chamber??

Old Nov 10, 2004 | 11:00 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Damn dude, just buy the friggen car, or leave it alone already...
damn dude don't beat me up :P
it's not just buy or not buy.. if it was my money I would have got it allready! but my parents are gonna buy it for me, and Im still in the process of convincing them...




btw... did I forgot to mention that Ive got permition and money to buy it?!?
oh yeah!!
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 01:09 PM
  #27  
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Well if you do buy it I hope you have $2000 extra for the emergency engine fund and other repairs.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
Well if you do buy it I hope you have $2000 extra for the emergency engine fund and other repairs.
Im counting on the money for the rebuild.. around 500€ maybe a bit more. new tires, oil...
what else I should count with?

emergency fund? I hope I can keep my grades high or this car is gonna stay in the garage for long time
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 03:15 PM
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it should be a bit more than 500€. like twice that. depending on what all parts and who rebuilds.

btw - how did you make the € symbol?? its on my number 5 key, but i dont know how to do it. i've always wondered.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 03:34 PM
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Im on europe (portugal) so my € symbol is the same key as a "E" just press "Alt gr" +"E" .. I guess there is the same thing but with "5"..
Im gonna do the rebuild my self. will it not cost just the parts at rotary aviation?
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 03:36 PM
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More than likely one or more of your housings will have warpage, cracks at the water jacket, pitting, or other problems requiring replacement. You might be better off to get a jspec shipped in, drop it in, drive carefully with it, and save money/accumulate parts for the rebuild of the old engine as you can.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 03:42 PM
  #32  
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i know the Euro and its value, i kind of keep an eye on it. i believe it was $1.28 some days ago.

yea, the Euro sign is on my "5" key. whats alt gr ??

the master kit should be enough, but its $937 (plus whatever shipping to Portugal costs). i guess the kit would be about 732E.

937/(american dollar value of Euro)


you may be able to get away with the Basic kit only. i bought the basic kit, then solid corner seals (which wasn't necessary; i had earlier planned to half bridge), side seals, the oil chain, rotor oil seal set; thats all i can think of. that also doesn't include the gasket kit. my gaskets are pretty much all black and gray sealant (i forget the name). it also helps a lot to have parts soda blasted; scraping gasket is NO FUN. i dont know how some people do it.

Last edited by casio; Nov 10, 2004 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 04:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
More than likely one or more of your housings will have warpage, cracks at the water jacket, pitting, or other problems requiring replacement. You might be better off to get a jspec shipped in, drop it in, drive carefully with it, and save money/accumulate parts for the rebuild of the old engine as you can.
I was so afraid of that.... I mean... where will I get a new engine?? I believe my parents wont get into that game HELP guide me pls.. :P
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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Uhm...you get them from the same place everyone else does...japanese engine importers. Perhaps you could find a contact in japan who will sell you a whole engine outright, to save shipping back and forth from the US.

What, you're buying this car thinking that it will magically just start working properly again? It's going to HAVE to be rebuilt or replaced. There is NO cheap method of doing this, especially where you live. I'd say you'll incur costs between $1000-2000 USD, that's on the low side of average most of the time.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Uhm...you get them from the same place everyone else does...japanese engine importers. Perhaps you could find a contact in japan who will sell you a whole engine outright, to save shipping back and forth from the US.

What, you're buying this car thinking that it will magically just start working properly again? It's going to HAVE to be rebuilt or replaced. There is NO cheap method of doing this, especially where you live. I'd say you'll incur costs between $1000-2000 USD, that's on the low side of average most of the time.
nope I was expecting it to work after I replaced the inside with one of those kits from rotaryaviation.. but the housings ?? that's like impossible to get here...

how can the inside rust out that easy ??... I mean, isn't the inside full of oil on the walls??
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:16 PM
  #36  
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I think you're getting in way over your head. Just wait it out for a good running condition FC.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:17 PM
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how can the inside rust out that easy ??... I mean, isn't the inside full of oil on the walls??
How long has the car sat since it last ran normally? Water + air + bare metal + time = rust. Duh.


Take a look. These are water seal motors that have sat for a long time. You can also see a busted water jacket on the iron, making it non-useable...this is often the root cause of bad water seal motors.

www.rotaryresurrection.com ---> tech ---> internal engine damage
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
I think you're getting in way over your head. Just wait it out for a good running condition FC.
there are like what.. 10 FC in my coutry ?! :\
ok maybe not that few.. but in my part of the country (Algarve in case any of U guys came here on summer) there are 5. 2 of them are N/A and only this one is an s5.. oh.. 3 of them are of a friend of mine.. this is a super rare car here.

damn it!
will a compression check acuse if the housing is cracked? or will it crack overtime or sumthing like that?
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