Yeah i overheated my car and sent some coolant seals to the moon, stupid rad cap. Anyways, i was thinking about trying to block weld technique found here.

http://rotaryresurrection.com/coolantfix.html

If so how did it work for you? and for how long have you had it?

Im having a hard time getting it started due to the water flooding the spark plugs, how did y ou get over this? I got it started one time by taking it to the top of the hill in my neighborhood and poped the clutch, and it started good but quickly started to overheat and spit water out. So doing the things that write up states "5 or 6 times" is going to be a real pain. Thanks guys.

 

um, bump please

 

I've used block weld before, it works great if properly done. I race and drift so I can tell you that it will hold up while doing all that. BTW, my motor has about 169K on it.

 

Anoither one Charles?

 

Yes another one, these motors dont like anything other than perfect, or they will slap you on your face. My mom over heated the 4cyl mustang for damn near 20 mins with a blown radiator more than once, and it always fired up. Forget the rad cap for 5 mins, lifes over on a rotary. Oh well im off to try some "band aid" as the Parts Monger would say, because i have about 100 dollars in the bank, and no job.

 

knock on wood... but I've overheated my FC 3 times now... once to the point of boiling coolant, once with no water pump belt for 10 minutes of .. not gentle driving... and once reasonably severely, but not to the point of boiling... I've got no coolant seal problems.

Lucky me, I guess...

 

Just make sure the sysytem is as clean as you can get it!!!! Sorrey to hear about the latest fiasco. Did it happen at the track?

 

damn, I think because its a rebuilt motor with used housings throughout that the coolant seal went so easily. Like they were probably already slightly warped from previous usage.

Im going to get some of that degreaser, a coolant system flush kit, and some hose to bypass the heatercore so i dont damage it or have to worry about cleaning it out to, what do you guys think about that? Running a hose from the outlet next to the spark plugs to the outlet of the bottom of the radiator heater hose?

John- It was kinda odd how the chain of events happened. I was checking my water/oil level for a trip to Edisto (which im not going now damnit!) and my bud came over while i was doing it, then the UPS man came over and had me sign for my WBO2 sensor (did i say that? ) and in all of that i forgot to put the cap on. My freind was like "hey man can you take me for a ride?" So we went like out the neighbor hood, did a U turn, came back, overheated like a BITCH! It was like volcanoing steam out when i opened the hood, and that was it.

 

How did you get it started for 5 or 6 times like it states when flushing and things? I have to bump start mine from the top of a big hill, which i cant really do or the neighbors will call the cops (dont ask how i know).

 

Another testimonial as to why I run EVANS NPG+.

Due to my BRo-in law "helping me" I am driving with the heater core bypassed. I used the inllet of the pipe by the firewall, with a soft clamp on the line to restrict the bypass flow

 

Mine started to go at 161,000 miles:
Hard to start.
Finally catches on one rotor.
Runs rough for a few seconds.
Second rotor catches.
Big cloud of white steam out the back.
A few sconds later idle is OK.
Driving normal it runs a little hot & spits coolant out the overflow tube.

Gave it the "pixie dust" treatment in June 2003.
So far, it's running just like normal!

 

well guys
im trying this treatment, and i cant get it to start. I got it to start one time and it instanly blew all the coolant out of the overflow tank well before it "warmed up" and i after cutting it off and refilling it, tried to crank it.. nothing. I pulled the plugs and water just poured out. So i dont know if my engine is too far or what. thanks

 

OUCH, I think I have some salvagable irons over here

 

Cool, can i barrow a few hundred for the gasket/o-ring kit?

 

The BUC (augusta down-south blowemup-crew) strikes again!!

Damn Charles, you fucked up one of MY motors! Im gonna have to come down there and show you boys how to work on this **** arent I?

BTW, I dont think used housings have anything to do with it. Everythign is measured and cleaned before use, and it's obvious when one has been hot before, it gets thrown away with a quickness. Bottom line, you're the only one to blame, not me or the used engine housings.

But, if you want to bring that bitch up here (short block) I will help you tear it down and replace the coolant seals, and we can reinstall everything else just as it was with no breakin etc. You can get a basic s4 NA gasket kit from atkins for $120 which has all the coolant orings, dowel orings, and tension bolt seals that'd be necessary. IF you did **** up an iron, I have plenty to spare, and changing one wouldnt really affect the motor either.

So long as you do all the bitch work, Ill help you with it for no charge since you're a past customer, but I will have none of this badmouthing my work or my materials. It's bad enough that Im still waiting on John to tell you that you should have went with pineapple instead of me!

 

If he would have run Evans he wouldn't be in the predicament he is in now.

 

True, but doing things that way isnt part of the BUC lifestyle, is it now charles??

Just wait until detruich gets on here talking about racing cobra mustangs in his NA basemodel

 

The pineapple goes to the dyno tomorrow in STOCK trim, to establish a baseline. Its nice having an engine that starts on the first twist of the key and idles and 750 RPM. Plus it didn't require: "You want the rebuild to idle at around 1500rpm for the first day or more"

 

True, but I'll take 1500rpms for 1500 miles, rather than $1500 extra for the same year/model engine!! Even if my engine dies before his would, I can build another and still be ahead of the game.

 

Come on down to Batlground Saturday, we'll dyno stock engines against stock engine. I still have the stock manifolds, ecu and exhaust. Just de-emissioned and Pineapple sleeves

 

the 1500 is worth the 5 year warrenty! Plus the NEW housings and ALL NEW seals

We can agure all nite! You have your standards, and I have mine

 

I have a better idea. You spend your $2500 on the stock pineapple engine, and do all the "freebie" mods you want to it.

I will build my own engine and start out at my regular prices. I will then spend the remainder of the $2500 budget on mods to my engine.

*THEN* we will head off to do battle.

Now what?

 

IF that were a fact everyone else agreed on, I would offer a 10 year warranty for $1500 extra. Even if I had to build the engine 3 times in 10 years due to abuse, I would still come out way ahead. But, who is gonna pay for that??

Yup, you're exactly right. A lot of people seem to agree with mine. Doesnt much matter to me though, so I'll let it go. To each their own, I just like presenting other sides of the coin.

 

No, just bring your stock engine down and we'll dyno. If we want to play run what ya brung, I can play that game too.


the extra 1500 was well worth it for:

"John, we are working on more info for the website.
Thanks for the input! The difference between the 2yr
vs. 5yr is the 2yr is a quality replacement rebuild.
The 5yr has in addition to the new rotor housings,
apex seals, bearings, oil rings/o rings, spngs etc of
the 2yr: spark plug eye brows machined for ease of
alt. plug use(like cold race plugs), new corner seals,
side seals, cryo treated oil control rings/bearings,
stage 1 oil mods, port cleanup, applying of thermal
barrier to the plug hole(to help prevent cracking).
These are the big highlights."



and the piece of mind.....

 

Ilike my version better..."run what ya paid for". What is unfair about that? ISnt that what amateur racing is all about, who can get the most performance for the least money? It's not like IM talking about a v8 swap or anything, what are you afraid of?

I dont see this going anywhere very constructive, so I wont be replying back here on this topic with you tonight.