Blew my 4th engine in 3yrs...done with rotary turbos. How reliable are NAs
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
My N/A ran like a scalded dog until it popped. Think it was my first post on here to. Smoked like a freight train, and then one day it just let go. Took it apart and it was because of one fed^ port job, went into the oil seals area. Now I got a new motor and should be good to go for about 150k if I dont turbo it.
2nd Gen. Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 388
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From: New Hampshire
Man, my TII has 148k on the ticker and still runs fine. It still has plenty of power and doesn't smoke at all once warmed up.
Why does everyone think that because you have a modded TII with all kinds of power that you have to use the power all the time. Nothing likes to be worked as hard as possible all the time, If you keep poppin motors why don't you just take it easier on them.
Why does everyone think that because you have a modded TII with all kinds of power that you have to use the power all the time. Nothing likes to be worked as hard as possible all the time, If you keep poppin motors why don't you just take it easier on them.
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by Karack
yep that is true but FDs tend to average about 100k per rebuild, not impressive but not bad either. statistically the more power you put through a rotary the longevity of it will decrease even with proper tuning.
n/a - 200k+
TII - 150k
FD - 100k
300RWHP - 75k
400RWHP - 40-50k
etc etc etc
these are just averages and mileage can be exchanged, such as using RA seals to trade the life of the rotor housings for more rigid apex seals which are less likely to fail. using Atkins seals may last a little less but are less likely to damage the rotor housings when they fail.
keeping a boosted motor out of boost can help keep it alive longer but i see no point in owning a boosted motor if it rarely sees it, point being i have seen FDs with 200k original miles and TIIs with over 200k as well.
n/a - 200k+
TII - 150k
FD - 100k
300RWHP - 75k
400RWHP - 40-50k
etc etc etc
these are just averages and mileage can be exchanged, such as using RA seals to trade the life of the rotor housings for more rigid apex seals which are less likely to fail. using Atkins seals may last a little less but are less likely to damage the rotor housings when they fail.
keeping a boosted motor out of boost can help keep it alive longer but i see no point in owning a boosted motor if it rarely sees it, point being i have seen FDs with 200k original miles and TIIs with over 200k as well.
Boost in..Apex seals out.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,931
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From: Maryland, 21794
Originally Posted by Icemark
Well since I have never seen an american brand domestic built motor last past 100K miles without major work needed, even 100K miles on a FD/13BREW is a bargin... but people don't always see it that way.
Our old F150 (1987?) lasted to like, 180k. Only thing it ever needed was a new radiator and AC condensor
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by adrock3217
Our old F150 (1987?) lasted to like, 180k. Only thing it ever needed was a new radiator and AC condensor
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
I have never seen a GM vehicle that didnt come in for work above 60k. My corsica its like a planned thing, every year ill have to replace the water pump(go through 3 so far). The SBC(supposidly the best motor in the world) they usualy have to be rebuilt be 120k or so. Of course some people will be like Ive never rebuyilt one, and never seen one fail. Yeah sure but how many times were the head gaskets replaced, and oil pumps kick the can.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,789
Likes: 2
From: Jacksonville, NC
If you got a little cash to play with (and don't feel like building an N/A 20B), ditch the emissions and EFI, build a 13B 4-port with high compression rotors, Weber's, cryo'd internals, a massive streetport, and LET THE GAMES BEGIN! 
Or buy a TII...
Or buy a TII...
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,789
Likes: 2
From: Jacksonville, NC
^ That's what all the N/A folks say...
The thing is, when driving a N/A FC, I can't help but get the feeling that something is missing...
N/A
1k braaaa
2k braaaaa
3k braaaaaa
4k braaa... ok wtf this sucks
TII
1k braaaaa
2k braaaaaa
3k braaaaaaaAAA
4k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
5k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaA1!!
etc...
The thing is, when driving a N/A FC, I can't help but get the feeling that something is missing...
N/A
1k braaaa
2k braaaaa
3k braaaaaa
4k braaa... ok wtf this sucks
TII
1k braaaaa
2k braaaaaa
3k braaaaaaaAAA
4k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
5k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaA1!!
etc...
Originally Posted by 13b4me
^ That's what all the N/A folks say...
The thing is, when driving a N/A FC, I can't help but get the feeling that something is missing...
N/A
1k braaaa
2k braaaaa
3k braaaaaa
4k braaa... ok wtf this sucks
TII
1k braaaaa
2k braaaaaa
3k braaaaaaaAAA
4k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
5k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaA1!!
etc...
The thing is, when driving a N/A FC, I can't help but get the feeling that something is missing...
N/A
1k braaaa
2k braaaaa
3k braaaaaa
4k braaa... ok wtf this sucks
TII
1k braaaaa
2k braaaaaa
3k braaaaaaaAAA
4k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
5k BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaA1!!
etc...
agreed. im getting used to t2 and subconciously started bracing for when boost hits and now when im in an na, its not even fun to floor. run to 3k and shift... laugh at all the na guys trying to be fast. even if it is faster, it doesnt feel as happy in the pants as when you watch that gauge swing to the right and pin you.
Originally Posted by Karack
yep that is true but FDs tend to average about 100k per rebuild, not impressive but not bad either. statistically the more power you put through a rotary the longevity of it will decrease even with proper tuning.
n/a - 200k+
TII - 150k
FD - 100k
300RWHP - 75k
400RWHP - 40-50k
etc etc etc
these are just averages and mileage can be exchanged, such as using RA seals to trade the life of the rotor housings for more rigid apex seals which are less likely to fail. using Atkins seals may last a little less but are less likely to damage the rotor housings when they fail.
keeping a boosted motor out of boost can help keep it alive longer but i see no point in owning a boosted motor if it rarely sees it, point being i have seen FDs with 200k original miles and TIIs with over 200k as well.
n/a - 200k+
TII - 150k
FD - 100k
300RWHP - 75k
400RWHP - 40-50k
etc etc etc
these are just averages and mileage can be exchanged, such as using RA seals to trade the life of the rotor housings for more rigid apex seals which are less likely to fail. using Atkins seals may last a little less but are less likely to damage the rotor housings when they fail.
keeping a boosted motor out of boost can help keep it alive longer but i see no point in owning a boosted motor if it rarely sees it, point being i have seen FDs with 200k original miles and TIIs with over 200k as well.
there are not too many engines PERIOD that can claim seeing 40-50k mile longevety while making 400RWHP. Very large, Very modern v8's excepted.
A friend of mine has a 400whp honda (jdm closed-deck h22, 2.4 liter) - 20k miles and it's time for new motor.
You can't just expect a motor built to that level to last forever.
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: N/A
Okay, I've read about how long the NA's will last and the T2's will last if stock and driven politely. But the thing I want to know is how long the NA's and T2's last if you DO run them hard. As in, daily drive it, take it to autocrosses and track days often, drift it* 5-7 days a week (for ~2 hours per day).
*
Please be polite. I know most of you don't like it, but different strokes for different folks.
Edit-Forgot to mention that I wouldn't really modify power-wise (maybe basic stuff like exhaust and intake). I'd put my money towards suspension.
*
Please be polite. I know most of you don't like it, but different strokes for different folks.Edit-Forgot to mention that I wouldn't really modify power-wise (maybe basic stuff like exhaust and intake). I'd put my money towards suspension.
Last edited by GeaBu88; Apr 9, 2006 at 03:24 PM.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
From: Boston
Ive had my TII now for almost 4 years. Bought it with 77k and shes still running really strong (cept for the turbo) because i dont drive like a jackass half the time (ie, race every moron that revs his engine next to me at a light). I just think that its all in the owner and how the car is driven. But there really is no debating the fact that forced induction is going to cuase more internal stress and therfore last less than an engine without forced induction.
If people would just take care of there Rx7's we wouldent have the negative reputation we have with the rotary engines. IMO!
If people would just take care of there Rx7's we wouldent have the negative reputation we have with the rotary engines. IMO!
Originally Posted by Icemark
Well since I have never seen an american brand domestic built motor last past 100K miles without major work needed, even 100K miles on a FD/13BREW is a bargin... but people don't always see it that way.
my work truck ('90 S10 4X4 with 33" TSL thornbirds) has 150k with no major work at all, just 30k services minus oil changes. one fault with mid model chevy engines is weak valve oil seals. it smoked at first but i just stopped changing the oil. it has lived an abusd life and the current oil change has close to 40k on it, i just add about 1 quart every 2-3k miles.
but still, any abused engine won't last no matter who built or designed it.
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Hollister, Missouri
I have an 88 GXL with 200,500 Miles on it.. I've heard they were pretty reliable, so what do you guys think I have left on it? Should I have some work done now? Or wait until there is a problem?
-np-
-np-
Last edited by Nic Pre; May 7, 2006 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Wanted to subscribe to the post. I couldn't do it with Quick Reply.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
From: Portland. OR
Originally Posted by Nic Pre
I have an 88 GXL with 200,500 Miles on it.. I've heard they were pretty reliable, so what do you guys think I have left on it? Should I have some work done now? Or wait until there is a problem?
-np-
-np-
I've daily driven my GXL for almost 7 years. I got the car when i was 17, and its seen the redline frequently. I've always been good to it maintenance wise though. My friends would make fun of me for changing the oil every time it got slightly dark looking. The only time its been down is for clutch job, and a broken oil cooler hose. Now i have almost 150k on my motor and it still has 110 & 115 compression!
I'm looking for a TII but i'll never sell this thing, it will be my daily driver until it simply cant be sustained anymore.
Last edited by synesthete; May 7, 2006 at 08:16 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
From: Portland. OR
I'm not sure if you can rent the tester but i would think so. I just borrowed one from a friend. You can use a standard piston tester, but to test each face you need one that can release the pressure with a button or something.
It is actually really easy, if you can change the spark plugs than you can compression check your motor. The local mazda dealership can probably do it with their special one, but they might charge for it, might not. Procedures are in the service manuals and posted here if you search, very easy, takes 10 mins. Good luck. PM me if you have any questions.
It is actually really easy, if you can change the spark plugs than you can compression check your motor. The local mazda dealership can probably do it with their special one, but they might charge for it, might not. Procedures are in the service manuals and posted here if you search, very easy, takes 10 mins. Good luck. PM me if you have any questions.
