well. I have the mods listed below, accect, I have a bosch fuel pump, not rewired (walbro in the garage). last year I bought this 87 turbo mint, 80k on it, 6 days later, blew the engine, got an engine from Aktins, 4 k later its blown again. Upon teardown he (Dave Atkin) found a blown apex seal, stated the rest of engine was great. he figures, and sounds corect, that I detonated, this is caused by running lean right or maybe hot as well? I never have had the engine hot, #1 and #2 the the wideband is right on the money. when it blew I was going about 23 mph in 2nd gear under normal accelaration. I have my mbc set at 10.5-11 lbs and run premium fuel.

dave says to get the fuel injectors tested and cleaned.

btw it was the front rotor.

what else should I check?

thanks

jared

 

wow sorry to hear. How things work out. Is there a warranty with that rebuild you purchased?

 

Check for a engine with pistons in it

Joking... :P

 

MBC??

Sounds like you need a stand alone and proper tuning or you have a clogged injector

 

Manual Boost Controller

 

How was the timing? Can't improper timing produce detonation?

 

good question, car ran sweet though.

and the questions about the engine, he doest cover busted apex seals. I guess he makes his own and theyre sweet? I am springing for 3mm seal on the rebuild.

but I never ran lean... ...really?

 

bump.

ideas, what to check...

 

How much boost are you actually running? With that setup, I would expect major boost spikes...

 

I boost too like 11 pounds i hit it fast, it feals like it blew under heavy boost but low rpm. you generate the most boost at lower rpm, like 4k (?) its that senario that blew both engines it seems, low rpms but accelerating, once I was racing my buddies wrx and I am sure I was boosting to nuts, that was before the mbc and ported WG.

you think I should remove the MBC and do something to the intake, the car has an HKS drop in. I know if I restrict it more, I.E. but the cover back on it (the last owner cut it off but I hav a spare). maybe that would help, plus the fuel injectors cleaned.

thanks dude

jared

boost spike is erratic boost curves right, with "spikes"? just to clarify, becuase I can make my boost gauge hop big jumps

 

If you are boosting high at low RPM, then detonation is more likely. Lugging the engine is bad.

Boost spikes are sudden jumps in boost over the normal amount. Boost creep is the slow increase of boost over time because the wastegate cannot bypass enough exhaust. You probably experience boost creep, and if you don't have an aftermarket guage, you will never know.

Remember that a boost controller cannot lower boost, only raise it.

 

yeah, I have a VDO "t"ed into the uim. I figure Ill be chucking the MBC but. how do I remedy the boost spike?

 

Here's what I would do once it's running again:
- Rewire the fuel pump. Depending on what model it is, the Bosche pump's probably fine, but any pump is useless if it's not getting adequate voltage.
- Lose the boost controller for now. With that exhaust you probably don't need it, and it may be contributing to any boost spike.
- Check to see the timing is not advanced from stock.
- Consider a FMIC. Lower inlet temps means less chance of detonation.
- Get to a dyno. Under those more controlled conditions you can check both boost and mixtures under load.

 

Hope things work out for ya.

 

heh that sounds like what happened to me... i was cruising about 65 mph(in a 60, i don't speed on the streets.... or highways... save it for the strip).... and all of a sudden... the ping of death... i didn't even think to look at my temp guage, i was pissed... but i knew it would happen, cause this car blew 4 motors in the 16 months before i got it... i've narrowed it down to the stock radiator, definately running hot... i got plenty of fuel, and an air fuel ratio meter that tends to show me running rich almost all the time... either rich or right in the middle.... just like a rotary should run

 

I blew my engine too some how....

i have 3mm and streetport.. and 11,000 miles on it..
had CAT on for 7000 miles going to 4.5 pounds boost then changed to Racing Beats Presiliencer for turbo catback. and got 14 pounds.

i broke / cracked 4 seals but all stayed in place and did not go through the turbo the housings are fine and the rotors have spots on them.

car would not idle and stall but this was happening for a month already before i noticed a klunk sound while maintaing a low idle @ about 500 rpm.

Temp guage never went over half way,
but a thign that did worry me was a lower oil pressure since i had the rebuild.
it never went past half way.and @ idle it was lower than 30...

have autometer boost gauge and never saw it go past 14 pounds never saw a creep either....

Rotary Power did my rebuild and are currently pulling it apart and redoing it for me. It is just taking a little time.
will now be getting Apexi AVC-R and FMIC either a 3row if under $1500 then a 2 row if 2 much...

 

i was also throwing flames and cleaned the injectors when i had the rebuild done so i could not be running lean...

 

the car is never hot.

I too, was

"throwing flames" ...?

 

Did you get a downpipe? What mods did you perform? I blew my engine from running lean. Now that I got a new engine I think the first mods should be fuel upgrades. In rotary engines you have to make sure you have the sufficient fuel. Then you can perform other mods, I suggest a more efficient radiator.

 

Get your injectors clean and calibrated, and check their connectors. I recently had my TII dynoed at K&D and he found a bad wire on my front secondary, probably why I poped my front rotor back then.

 

if you retard your timing a bit, does that reduce the chsces of detonating?