classicauto

iTrader: (3)

If it does take a crap on you - give this a try:

http://www.speedmachineperformance.c...tCode=HP300001

I have it on my turbo, its a little bit of work trimming it to size, but it is thick and really gets the job done.

I'm sure you could source one within Canada as well, but I bought mine from speedmachine......

apexFD

Wow Aaron... very nice fabrication and a very nice build!


I dont know if i like the paint scheme but who cares about the color, its going to haul ***.


Cant wait to see it ina action!!!!!!


-Ben

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

sorry if i missed it.... are you running an AUX. injection?? is this pumped gas and thats it?

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Yeah i'd think for sure you'd crack an S4 iron on pump gas with that much power.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I looked at that and it seemed very similar to the DEI part. How well has it held up for you? Is it basically retained using the stainless steel zip ties?

I don't really believe in "extra bottles" whether it be nitrous or some kind of water/alcohol injection.

Only if I detonate it. Which I won't.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

I know that, i'm just thinking it's gotta' be hard to not detonate with a gt40R on pump though. What octane do they sell in canada? I'm paranoid so i'm gonna' run methanol injection for my 60-1 set up that will be done probably sometime next year.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've done so many 60-1 setups running decent boost (15+ PSI) on high compression engines and never had an issue. I'm not really worried too much about detonation. There's no indications so far that high boost is going to be an issue.

Some updates...

Yesterday afternoon a little tuning took place. Finally got some time to get out of the city and actually see some real boost.

First the low load was cleaned up so that at light throttles an in vacuum, A/F ratios are rarely leaner then 13.5. This made a huge difference in the way the car drives, not to mention fuel consumption. I'd go as far to say that it drives nearly as easily as stock. You can cruise all day at 2000 RPM without issues with the A/F ratios in the high 14s, and the car can be launched at 1700 RPM without any major drama.

Slowly we worked up to 10 PSI and past, bringing the fuel down to reasonable levels. At 10+ PSI, the car is a beast. Even with A/F ratios of 10:1, the thing just hauls hard. At 14 PSI the turbo really comes alive and the car looses traction in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. It's my guess that at less then 15 PSI, the car is easily a mid to low 12 second car and that's with A/F ratios probably costing 80HP. Once things are a little saner at 11.5:1 under 10 PSI and probably 11:1 or high-10s at above 10 PSI the car will really start to pull.

No real videos right now of the tuning, but here's a little teaser showing the real response of a ball bearing turbo:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1MryAt1dw8

Count how many seconds it takes to stop spinning after the car is turned off.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Wow your build up looks great. Looks like you put a lot of time into this. Congrats on finally getting her all together. But was it really necessary to build your own wrenches too? J/K

[/QUOTE]

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Pfft, that takes too long. Just shove your finger in there and stop it

got_boost

iTrader: (16)

wow ... sounds amazing !!!!
cant wait to see it at the track, drag strip and on the street !!!

dont be shy with the videos !!!!

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

Woah it just hit me you were serious

rotary84autox

ahh but just imagine it will turn into a 4 rotor high compression turbo with two gt40R turbos hehe you know you want to Arron and we all know you could and it would be freakin amazing!!! and imagine the sound mmm i think i am in rotary bliss...

ohh could you get a sound clip/ video that i could really hear the exhaust in? i am very curious what it sounds like with those silencers?

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

very nice you are always proving yourself above and beyond

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The scary thing is that I have had to make my own wrenches. The original turbo NA install required a custom stubby 17MM, and I ended up making my own -6 AN wrench out of an old flare nut wrench. But for the benefit of everyone else, those wrenches are the ones that came with the die grinder for the collet nut.

I'll get right on that. I've already cut off a thumb, so I may as well start on the rest of my fingers.

I may go to the track this Friday if I'm bored. Just a few 12 second runs to get used to the car...

Well that's just excessive. A 4 rotor running twin GT40s would be making something like 1400 HP. A little more then is necessary I think. Honestly the power that the car makes now is useless anyway as there's nowhere it could ever be legally used on the street.

The 4 rotor will be NA for sure.

I'll see what I can do.

Updates from yesterday:

Finally someone noticed the oil filter! I was smiling the whole time I bought that because I was just waiting for someone to complain.

A little more tuning yesterday. The car has lots of fuel for probably as much as the turbo will throw at it. At 13 PSI (current wastegate spring, no controller) injector times are less then 4 mS and A/F ratios are still in the mid 10s. I'm slowly cleaning up the car and aiming for high 11s before 10 PSI, low 11s at 13 PSI and high 10s at higher boost. Timing is currently very conservative under boost with a linear progression from 15 degrees or so around 8 PSI ending up at 10 degrees at 13 PSI and above. Certainly there is more power to be made with timing but I'll cross that bridge on the dyno and not the street. The car is rapidly becoming too fast to safely tune on even the most remote and deserted roads. Rolling on the throttle will result in loss of traction in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear at nearly any speed.

Boost control is rock solid. It spools to 13 PSI then just sits there regardless of load without a hint of creep.

I must say that the datalogging feature of the Nexus gauges has made this process very simple. Of course the Microtech does datalogging, but it's far more convenient to grab the Nexus remote and step through a run while tweaking the fuel map at the same time. Currently I have a 512MB SD card in the remote for logging which is about 30 minutes worth of recording. Very handy for the drive to and from work to clean up cold start and cruise.

turbodrx7

iTrader: (43)

Very impressive fabrication aaron. I too have the gt40r on my FD and it is a great turbo. On about 15psi, which is right around 420whp on a ported motor...is good for around 11.8@122. I am still trying to figure out why you are having such an issue with traction, what size and brand of tires are you running? Do you have suspension mods, especially in the back? Have you thought about running atleast the Nitto 555 radial?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I don't get it. Why not race gas and 25-30 psi? Isn't that like a waste of a turbo to do otherwise? Or am I missing something here?

boog

wow ... u better be going to sevenstock!

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Basically with the zip-ties yes. Its holding up well though - I had fitted it to the old turbo before blowing that engine, so it hasn't seen a *tonne* of run time, but its been on and off about 4 times so far (those stainless ties are sharp!!! ) and the holes where you "sew" the ties through haven't enlarged at all.

Real long term testing will resume shortly though sooo.....

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Not exactly, considering that whether its in its effciency range or not - that turbo will pull like a frieght train at 10-14 pounds.

So why not? Just because you can run something to the ragged edges of its capability doesn't mean should all the time. I know my setup isn't going to be pushing 20+ pounds until I feel I've gotten my money out of it

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Well that's not bad at all. Considering the amount of evil in 13 PSI, I don't think I'll be upping it to 15 PSI (much closer to the efficiency range) any time soon.

I'm running Sumitomo HTRZ II 215s on the back, so there's not a whole heap of rubber on the road. In retrospect I could have gone with a wider tire, but I'm very happy with the HTRZ II, especially considering the price. Also keep in mind that a base model 2nd gen has shorter gearing then I think just about any other model of RX-7 (save for some 1st gens), and it's the lightest of all 2nd gens (something like 2600 LBs....and I'm probably 100-200 LBs lighter then that). Oh, and 9.7:1 compression doesn't hurt.

Well....

1. Race gas is expensive
2. Race gas is not available at any corner gas station
3. I don't need a 650+ RWHP 2nd gen (who does?!)

It's PLENTY fast right now, and once I turn the boost up to 15+ and get the richness out of the current tune, it's going to be scary/dangerous fast. More then 30% throttle on city streets is terrifying.

I'm considering going, but I will by flying. The drive would be a bit long considering it's nearly across the continent.

Sounds like it's holding up better then mine will. I don't think any of my holes have enlarged, but the aluminum coating is looking a bit sketchy at this point. We'll give it a week or two before I decide if I have to send an angry email to DEI.

Damn straight.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Updates....

The DEI heat shield is dying a slow death. Where the inner surfaces touches the turbine housing, all the aluminum coating has flaked off. Every time I was the engine bay I end up with a shiny aluminum coated towel. Will it get worse? Don't know at the moment but it certainly does not look as good as it did in the original pictures.

I'd have to say that because of this, I am not happy with the product and would not recommend that anyone else spend their money on it when there are other well known blankets that can stand up to rotary exhaust heat. I'm going to send a letter to DEI asking them to make it very clear that the product is not rotary compatible.

As for the tuning, the car is coming along quite nicely. I've been datalogging nearly every day and working out the kinks in the light load map in the hopes of getting reasonable gas mileage. Currently the car cruises in the high 14s/low 15s most of the time, falling to the high 13s under light acceleration. Because of the general leanness of the map it's taking some time to really dial in the cold start (there's only one chance per day to work on it), and as the engine breaks in fully I've needed to tweak the idle a few times. Nothing out of the ordinary really.

In general the car is terrifying to drive under WOT. It's still running pig rich under boost in the low 10s but it's slowly coming around as I've been leaning out the map. Soon I'll need to book some dyno time because as the A/F ratios improve, power is improving dramatically and the car is too fast to safely tune on the street.

This Friday (tomorrow) I'm going to make a trip to the 1/4 mile to make a few easy runs and just see what the car will do right now. Primarily I'll be looking at MPH at the end of the 1/4 mile as it's the best indicator of potential. I'm not going to beat the car at launch yet with things like the anti-lag until the A/F ratios are a little more sane.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

I have used the "turbo blanket" material that SMP sells. It sounds as if it is very similar to the DEI stuff you are using. It lasted about 500 miles on my car. It was a joke and a waste of money. It burnt up to a thin crisp of nothing.

Best bet for a turbo blanket is the Gotham Racing one, it is more expensive, but it works tremendously!

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

Aaron, ur a nucking fut. Awesome dude.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That sucks. I've seen the Gotham Racing blanket before on a few cars and it seems to hold up, so I guess that's the direction I'll be going.

forced inducted fd dude

wow....