i'll check compression tommorow although i'm sure the engine is done....

i'm kicking myself in the *** for not picking up another spare keg when i had the chance, **** i feel stupid....

 

I skimmed through the whole thread but I dont remember you checking this: did you check the hose from your boost gauge to see if it didnt pop off? I find it hard to believe that the gauge can fail so badly where it wont display a vacuum reading. Doest the gauge still display boost? A vacuum leak will cause your car to idle funky.

Do the compression test anyways and post the results. You do know how to do a compression test with a piston engine tester right? I think theres a write up on Rotary Resurrection.

 

I'm 100% behind the blown-motor theory... Sorry man--but I suppose we all go through it.

Hopefully the turbo wasn't damaged.

 

Thats very optimistic of you

This thread could have progressed so much with a compression test long ago.

 

i found a vac. leak and the vac. is now back to normal, but the car barely idle's....

i've procrastinated on the compression test this week because i had an accident at work so i've been pretty much bed ridden, but i will most likely check the compression tommorow....

if anyone has a link like the one guy above had mentioned regarding compression test using a piston engine's compression guage, please send it my way!...

i'll keep you guys posted!...

 

wow, sorry man...just got all that stuff sorted out and wamoooo. outta nowhere...

 

i got everything sorted out, it was running PERFECTLY....

then, ofcourse as my luck would have it....

 

umm the basics of the right up remove the shrader valve piston motors build compression rotarys have a constant power stroke. If you leave the shrader in compression will build to the face that has the most compression leaving you in the dark about the others. i hope for the best and that you have good compression numbers. You still leave us with unanswered questioned. what engine management are you using, are you using the stock ecu? check for vacuum leaks, i still wouldnt rule that out. i know someone mentioned if the pulled off all the vacuum lines there car would still run... like ****, all that unmetered air would kill the motor on the stock ECU. so do the compression test if bad well sorry if good start looking for a vacuum hose that probably blew off

 

just get a piston compression tester, take out the center valve by unscrewing it (it is the exact same type as you would see in a tire valve stem), and then with the throttle held wide open, carefully watch the needle as the engine is cranking over and you'll see what numbers you are getting. Make sure that the other cylinder has a spark plug out, or else the engine will turn over more slowly. It's also kinda hard to see the numbers you are getting because the needle moves soo fast. I've also tried putting the tester in the trailing and the leading and I've never noticed a difference. Oh yeah, and before anything else, disconnect the crank angle sensor so that you don't have to worry about the fuel and spark. Just unplug it and test away.
Brian

 

sorry guys, i'm running the stock ECU with an HKS PFC FCON with the GCC attachment, it was PERFECT for 5runs, then on the 6th caught a huge lean spike, thats.... about it....

so for the compression test, you want me to have a spark plug out of each hole?, like one from the front rotor and one from the rear?, or both from the same rotor housing?...

 

Pull both the trailing plugs, leave the leading ones in. Screw the compression into one of the trailing plug holes. Push in the clutch, push the gas pedal to the floor, only because it opens the throttle plates to allow more air in. Turn the key over for at least five seconds, look for three even bounces on the guage and see what psi its hitting as it bounces.

Put the guage in the next trailing hole, leave the first plug out, to allow the motor to spin faster. Repeat. Two low pulses in a row, bad apex seal, one low pulse and two good, side seal is bad. Those are just rules of thumb.

About the vacuum lines, your probably right about the unmetered air, and running like crap. I have full standalone and tend to forget about not having a afm.

 

so this is what i did guys, pulled the top plug in each ( only one out at a time ) and cranked it with the tester in holding the gas, it would blip low on the front housing and the higest number i got was 60, on the rear the highest i got was 90, i couldnt get three bounces so i could only get the peak for whichever housing....

Front - 60 peak
Rear - 90 peak

 

Yeah it's done.

Don't feel bad, I did a whole emissions removal/3" turbo-back install, and a lot of cleaning up some problems a while back, got the car running, and made it 16 miles before I blew a seal on the back rotor. I was feeling just about as bad as you are now.

 

i feel pretty shitty, but kinda wondering if my symptoms point towards a chucked seal or chipped, or?...

kinda wonder the condition of my turbo....

 

When it happened to me I lost the rear rotor housing and the turbo exhaust turbine. You'll need to disassemble everything to know for sure.

Good luck,

 

yeah thats true, the engine seems tired though, thats all....

it still made 278rwhp @ 10psi on a "blown" motor....