what is the best kit in your opinion? i heard using stock 3pc seals on a rebuild is the best. is that the truth or a lie? help me out here guys just found out my motor is running on 1 1/4 rotors... front only has 20, 20 ,45 compression

 

yes the factory 3 pc seals are far the best. MOst shops that mill those rotors for the 3mm seals sometimes are not precise and end up messing up the groove causing the motor to have blow bys....What do you mean when you said, your motor is running on 1 1/4 rotors???..

 

ceramic apex are the way to go!!

 

3pc are NOT the best. The tiny corner peice of the seals eventually make a nice SCAR in the rotor housing. For the best wear, use 2 peices. As I told you before, Atkins and Hurley carry some good 2pc's

 

its basically runnin at 65% of full capacity. the compression is like 20,20, 45 it would explain the - 12 inches of vaccum, hard starting, 10lbs max boost , and lumpy idle

 

GO with the factory seals.

 

www.atkinsrotary.com just call em

 

hmm lets think about this for a second, Mazda who have made MILLIONS of rotary engines over the years spend the time and money to develop not only 3 piece apex seals but also a machine with such fine precision and control to be able to make that 3rd piece of the apex seal, now would mazda bother IF the 3 piece seals weren't as good as 2 piece?

3 piece apex seals seal better than 2 piece ones, that 3rd piece is there for a reason, that piece of the apex seals needs to shift a little more than the rest, thats why it's there. short of spending BIG $$$ on some ceramic seals, 2 mm 3 piece mazda apex seals are THE BEST there is. Go to the 2mm vs 3mm thread in the rotary performance or single turbo section.

 

I have seen some high horse power rotary drag cars that use factory seals with no problem.

 

2 piece are best, that is why older 13B and 12A engines last so long. I have a high compression engine with turbo on it, I used to break apex seals every two months. I switched to 2 piece and the problem was solved. Ceramics are not adviseable for street everyday use. They are for racing applications for over 40 psi of boost.

 

So what's the difference between the 2-piece versus 3-piece that doesn't leave scarring?&nbsp The 2-piece seal still uses the triangle assist piece that still leaves a scar on the rotor housing...


-Ted

 

This just shows you're doing something wrong.&nbsp There's a good thread one of the other sections (Rotary Performance?) about stock apex seals - if you keep the detonation in check, the stock seals are fine past 30psi.



-Ted

 

I've had great results from hurley's.......why not and they're cheaper than dealer.

 

ejem ejem 12a use 3 piece stock seals.. thats why they are not as delicate as 13b engines are... thats why they are more prefer like to do bridge(like my 8512abridge).... just my opinion

 

ooops i mean 3mm seals lol my bad... they dont break as much a 13b in my experience...

 

you have flawed logic

how many turbo'd 12A's do you know of compared to turbo'd 13B's?

there is probably 100 or more 13B turbo'd motors per every turbo'd 12a on this planet. Could this have ANY reason why 13b's break more seals than 12a's? I THINK SO!!!!!!!!!

 

I think you have been kicked by way to many kangaroos' The 2 piece seal is flawless and will work for any Normal-Semi high performance application. Its easier to install and will adjust just the same as a 3 piece. Your Mazda logic just blows... look at how many **** up's they have not fixed... hell they will still sell you a S4 Pulsation Dampner for christ sakes (among 150 other flawed parts) and you trust them with your logic behind Apex seals... I prefer not too. I don't think there is a whole lot wrong with a 3 piece but I think a 2 is better, and certainly easier to install. Call ANY reputable shop in the US ( less head fractures from the roos') Pineaple, Atkins, Hayes, few others ... they ALL use 2 piece.

 

Why is it only US guys cant seem to build and tune motors to handle 30psi and over and make well over 700HP using the stock 2mm apex seals. maybe your combustion flame fronts swirl in the opposite direction to ours and it has to flow in the southern hemisphere direction to be able to use 2mm apex seals

 

When we started our drag rx-7 it was a 12-A turbocharged with a 650 cfo holley marine carb. 1980 rx-7. We ran low 10's with it and the car was still 100% factory except the engine and the tranny which was a 3rd gen. tranny... We had no seal problems at all. The scaring from the seal usually occurs when the car goes lean. The seal heats up and usually looses the tip at the end where the two pieces meet, causing the cornerpiece (little triangular shape) to scratch the housing. Since the 2 piece have a wider cornerpiece this scratching doe not occur. Just be carefull when doing settings a little rich on the high end is better than lean.