My driver's door hits the striker loop just a little low, when completely closed everything looks good but I would like the closing action to be smoother.

I figure if I can adjust the rear of the door up about 1/8" it would shut smoothly with less pressure.

I have the fender off so I have access to the hinge bolts, is this just a case of loosening the bolts and raising the rear of the door to align with the striker?

Tips and tricks appreciated!

 

Just got done re-hanging my buddies 79 camaro doors (fuggin heavy...). The pins that the doors are pivoted on, go through holes on a mount. The hole shave metal bushings, but after years the bushings (like most others) become disfigued, elongated, ect. They make little inserts and door pin bushings that correct the elongated holes. His door is now 100% perfect again. Before you would have to use the door handle to life the 50ish lb door up onto the latch.

Anyhow... I don't think our lightweight things are nearly that bad. Even so, it may be one method of dealing it.

 

You should just be able to move the actual latch around a bit. The part bolted to the body.

I haven't looked at my 7's doors closely, but on every other car I've had, those are just screwed in with big phillip's head screws. Loosen them, slide the latch up a bit, then tighten again.

 

I wanted to avoid moving the latch or the striker, because when closed the door is perfect, if I move it down to meet the door, the door will be sitting too low.

I'm hoping that there is some adjustment in the hinges, I'll check the pins for wear first, if they are OK then a little forward on the top one should bring the door up just a bit...

 

no, it won't move the door at all. This is why you need to adjust that part I spoke of. Leave the door out of it, because you shouldn't have to adjust any aspect of the door nor its hinges.

 

I know that I , but that door was damaged awhile back and has since been fixed, the damage was restricted to the outer skin, which was replaced.

When the door is latched closed, the alignment is perfect, if you say then I don't see how you could position a replacement door and have all of the moldings and body lines line up with the fender. From what I see if I move the striker plate down to meet the door then the door will sit low at that end and none of the body lines will match...right?

 

No body man here, but I've had doors off before, and if memory serves, to align the door when I put it back on I found some adjustment just in the bolts that hold the door to the hinge.

Not talking about the hinge to the frame......I said door to the hinge. Scribe a mark around the hinge at the door, then loosen the bolts and see if there isn't some play there to adjust with. Sorry, I ain't a gonna loosen mine up to see if my memory is working or not.

Not arguing with JGard either. Just my memory says some adjusting can be done at the door/hinge bolts.

 

Yes, no arguments, just looking for insight on the adjustments available.

I hope to sort things out today and get the driver's door closing smoothly!

 

Well, I have the new hinges and I am putting them on today!

The top pin was worn and allowing the door to drop at the back. I figured that for $25 bucks a piece I'd do it while the car was in pieces

 

Heh, I have the same problem. The wind blew my door when I opened it a while back. I tried to catch it, but it opened all the way and since the wind was strong I assume that something got bent wrong. I tried leaning on it a bit and that seemed to make it better, but it still catches just a bit. Will try adjusting the latch in a little while.