So ive Always like going with K&N or Bosch and ive heard that they are the best because it filters 10 microns but i want to know what u all think so post what u think.

 

My mechcanic Gives me like little black mazda dealership ones =P

 

I use Mazda.

 

If I had unlimited $ I'd run K&N cuz those filters are ridiculous, but my $14 goes a little farther buying mazda filters for now.

 

Well i figer if u spend ur money on suping up your car might as well spend less on that and more on make sure it runs for well.

 

oem...

 

K&N i've heard are the best filters, so that's what im voting. Current filter I have now is the most expensive fram filter. It seems to be performing okay but K&N is next.

 

Wix filters have a built in check valve so oil doesnt drain out upon next start. IE cold ctarts. They too are 10 micron. they are also the NAPA gold filters but with a napa logo.

 

Bosch just cause its actually one of the cheaper ones at the kragen I go to lol.

 

It's been done before: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=oil+filter

 

i know i forgot about 1 wix

 

Wix or OEM.

 

Poll edited, since you forgot the best filter out there... the Mazda OEM.

And this poll is kinda dumb as the K&N and Mobil 1 filters are exactly the same thing, other than K&N makes the sellers charge another $2 because of the filter wrench spot on the top of the filter... but other than that, they are exactly the same filter as the Pure One filter... In fact Purolator makes the Bosch, Motorcraft, PowerFlo, ProLine, Purolator Premium Plus, Purolator Pure One, Quaker State filters.

So half the filters in the poll are made by the same exact company.

Now the Bosch, Motorcraft, PowerFlo, ProLine, Purolator Premium Plus, Quaker State all use a paper element instead of the synthetic spun material found in the Pure One, Mobil 1, and K&N filters. Those filters using paper elements, because of the cheap design and poor flow should not be used in rotary powered vehicles.

The Mazda OEM filters also use the synthetic material, and feature anti drain back valves that actually work (as opposed to the steel ones found on some).

And I stay away from the Wix filters (Napa, Carquest, Nissan, Honda USA, Chrysler (sometimes)) as the paper elements tend to not do as good of a job as the spun or synthetic media filters and their metal to metal anti-drainback system doesn't really seal well- so it can let the oil drain back to the pan like the Frams.

 

Do the Mobil 1 filters have the antidrain valve? Been using Wix for the longest time for that valve and I thought they had the synthetic material. The Oil in my Jeep always seems to drain cleaner when I use the Wix

 

Yes, the Purolator Pure One (Mobil1, K&N, Pure One) all have a Nitrile silicon anti drain back valve.

The only thing that I don't like is that they have a lot of pleats (64) which may lead to slightly higher oil pressure. The Mazda OEM filter doesn't have this many.

Also the Mazda OEM filter area, even though the filter is half the size, the filter area of the media is about 1/3 bigger than the Pure One trio. The Mazda filter does not have end caps on the element while the Pure One Trio has a stamped metal plate on each side. The Mazda denso built filters weld the end seams of the element instead of glueing them to carboard (like the frams) or a stamped end cap (like the Pure One Trio). This means a longer filter element, instead of a filter element that is capped at each end.

So, IMO if you can't get OEM Mazda filters, then go with one of the PureOne Trio (Mobil1, K&N, Purolator Pure One).

 

good info Mark!!! i've been using the napa gold filters (with seemingly good results) and feel it may be time for a switch to the oem filter...

 

I been using purolator for 5 yearsnow.

 

Nippon...I suggest a FilterMag too.. (magnet that grabs onto the filter.)

 

I just put in an AMSoil filter. Quick search before i bought it and it seemed to filter better then most and last longer too boot (not like it would be used longer then 30000 miles anyways but good to know).

 

Thanks Mark. Would it stand to reason that the Mobil1 filter (or the K&N or the purolator Pure one) for my 4.0L Cherokee would be of the same type, quality and construction in the Jeep part number as well as the rotary?

-B

 

i just go with fram not a big deal since im all stock.

 

When you can get 5 superior filters that were designed specifically to use with your car for $25, or $5 a filter....why would you get a Fram? Ones that are known to blowup?

 

yes mobil 1 has an anti drain valve and filters alot more crap than all the other ones all i use is mobil filters but i dont use there oil in my car cuz i was told not to use synthetic...but when i had piston engine all i used was mobil.....

 

FYI fram filters are known for BURSTING.......Stay away at all costs IMO(http://www.google.com/search?q=defec...lient=firefox). I run mazda oem, BUT in my t2 I have a remote setup with a system one filter. expensive at first but its the last one I gotta buy and it is good for far more PSI than I plan on running.

 

Yes. The 4.0 filter is probably bigger than the one spec'd for the Mazda under 2.0L motors, but as far as construction it should be identical.

I would not ever recommend a Fram. It is not uncommon to see Fram's with poor end plate attachment (which means most of the filter element is bypassed) and there have been stories of them leaking/ Bursting from the crimps, as well as if you have a high water content in your oil, the cardboard they use can dissolve, dumping into your oil system.

Fram filters IMO are the worst filter out there, and you would probably be safer not using a filter at all than using a Fram. At least then you wouldn't be under the mis-conception that they are actually helping clean your oil.


See oil filters are funny things. You could use a Fram or other cheapo filter and never have a problem... but will your motor last? See the difference between a good filter and bad filter only shows up after 50k or 75K miles, when you have increased bearing wear because the filter didn't grab those hunks of metal, or you have worn side seals, because that filter didn't grab that hunk of broken down additive that became sludge.

A good filter means your oil system will last much longer and the part needing to be oiled will last much longer. The difference between replacing a motor at 75K miles or 150K miles (or in the case of a Toyota, 150K miles and 300K miles). Using a cheap or bad filter like the Fram, may never appear... unless you keep your car. If you are dumping your car in 2 years, then just buy the cheapest *** filter that you can find... because it won't matter. But if you want the motor to last, get the best filter you can afford... for our cars I would recommend the Mazda OEM filter first, and then one of the Pure One Trio next.