whats the best lightened flywheel to install on a 86 NA?
thanks guys!
would this be the best next upgrade after exhaust/cold air intake?

 

Depends on what you want to do with it. You have to slip the clutch more on lighter flywheels. So a lightened steel flywheel is ideal for a street car/daily driver and drag racing. An aluminum flywheel is better for a car that doesn't go from a stop often and is spent more time accelerating out of turns, like at AutoXs or race ciruits.

 

I was wondering the same thing since i am in the middle of a rebuild i thought of a flywheel change, are there any types that are good? and what the lightest wieght flywheel/counter wieght combo i should get?

:edit:

that is for a DD car

 

I put on an RB aluminum flywheel during my rebuild and port, and honestly it's no big deal. Takes a day or two to get used to, kinda like learning to drive a manual all over again (for me it was at least) but after that it was like I had never changed anything. I do a lot of stop and go/traffic driving every day with it to college uphill for a fair amount of the time, and it doesn't bother me one bit.

 

its a street car.
i like to race though -so i want something that i can see some acceleration increases with...
is there anything else anyone would recomend for my next upgrade besides exhaust/intake since i have done both.

 

dDub, didnt you change your counter wieght to a lighter one also? or was that me misinterpreting your rebuild pictures?

 

I changed the counterweight to the one that came with the flywheel. The stock counterweight that goes with the flywheel is built into it, but with an aftermarket one you either need the one that comes with it (RB) or get an auto tranny counterweight (ACT or used RB, etc.)

 

You might wanna try an SAFC to lean it out a little.

 

dDub do you notice any difference in accel or responce because of it?

 

Under 4000 rpms, yes, but since I'm in the rebuild break-in I cannot go above 4k rpms until I hit 1500 miles and I'm only at 600

Does rev much much faster in those rpms, though.

 

I've got a ACT pro lite in mine. The lightest one they make. My car revs really fast and stop and go really bites. And you can't just ride the clutch when you're backing out and what not. It takes a few days to get used to but its worth it.

 

how much you end up paying for it?

dDub are you going to go over 1500 miles just as a safety sake thing or are you gonna punch it right at 1500?

 

Normal break-in is no going over 4k rpms until 1500 miles, then from 1500 to 2000 gradually increase rpms to redline, and oil changed at 500 and 2000 miles.

Btw, the ACT clutches are for TII trannies ONLY, so unless you have a TII tranny in your n/a it's not going to work.

And as far as I know the ACT flywheels without counterweight is the same weight as the RB aluminum without counterweight. And it's not the lightest, I've seen a 7lber on ebay from Japan before, damn I wish I had won that auction

 

After a month of slip clutching through stop and go driving to and from work, I couldn't wait to change it out to lightened steel.

MUCH MUCH better.

 

Hmmm, I daily drive every day to and from school in stop and go traffic and I have no problems at all, now that I'm used to it it's like I never changed it. I guess it's just how well you adapt and personal preference.

 

Personally, I had the RB aluminum flywheel and LOVED it on my S5 TII. Prior to that, I had a lightened steel flywheel which came with my OS Giken twin plate clutch setup. There was still a noticeable difference between the two, although the OS GIKEN setup utilized a smaller diameter clutch to further aid in acceleration.

IMO, if you're doing any driving involving drivetrain abuse... go with a steel-type flywheel. If you don't like to abuse your drivetrain, go with an almost always lighter aluminum one. Also, if you have a puck-style clutch disc, it will wear at the flywheel much quicker. Most, if not all, aluminum flywheels have a REPLACEABLE friction ring which the clutch disc makes contact with. When it wears, just replace with another friction ring. If you had a lightened steel flywheel with a puck-style clutch disc, you would have to eventually replace the flywheel.

Just more factors to take into account...

 

ive got a SR motorsports 9lbs with a 2 lbs counter weight. Act xtreme heavy duty clucth and Xtreme heavy duty PP and i love it . I get some minor bucking once in a while , i think it might be a bad diff mount. but other than some minor modification to it. i love it ,., quicker rpms, fasteraccleration , and with just a intake , hi flow cat, and exhaust . it makes my na very fun to drive and i have no problems passing people . after driving this car and my friends cars with Lightwieght flywheels i think im going to do this to all my cars. ill be putting one on my T2 eventualy

 

so, my s4 na will benefit from an 11 pounder? or should i get something a bit lighter? and yes i plan to put alot of abuse on the tranny, it'll be DD car but it will also be my whip out 360s car too

 

Yeah the ACTs are TII. I exchanged a TII block for it. So I didn't pay anything. But its pretty damn light. And I was referring to it being the lightest ACT makes. So I'd imagine the TII and FD ACT flywheels are the same. Because the ACT I have came out of a FD and I'm using it with my TII transmission.

 

well my question is for us NA guys im assuming the TII isnt going to work. so compared to the one ton gravitron on the stock 13b what would you consider getting? for a mildly abused Dailly driver?

 

For the tranny swap that I was forced to do (mine went boom), I opted, being that I couldn't get a stock tII flywheel, for the RB lightend steel flywheel. My friend with his mustang got an 8lb flywheel IIRC, and it is an absolute BITCH to drive with it. He also mated it to a CF Dual Friction clutch, so you gotta almost chirp the tires taking off anywhere. A real PITA to drive on the street. The only problem, it is quite fun on the street with that little mustang...When nobody is watching

 

Since you mentioned a DD. Consider whether you are going to use your AC. I've noticed with my RB Lighten Steel that on occasion if the RPMs drop quickly with the AC on, the car will stall. This is not a frequent problem. As all rotor faces are 8.3 or better on compression, it is not a compression issue. I'm guessing in using an Alum. Flywheel the problem could occur more frequently due to the lighter rotating mass.

JP

 

Blip the gas when turning on the AC I'd say is the solution, just something to consider

 

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. The AC stalling situation happens under conditions of rapid deceleration, where you back off the throttle quickly. Again this is not frequent and has only occured a couple of times. Since this occured with my lighten steel, I was only suggesting that it could happen more frequently with aluminum.

JP