Thunder Shift

than correct it, then tell me the correct size

SuperRotorMan

i agree.. i like optima...

Thunder Shift

really? me too. (actually i dont know yet)

but what size should you get them in?

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

the titanium batterys from advance discount are pretty badass.

Thunder Shift

will group 34s fit without a problem? i'm juggling between
http://cgi.ebay.com/D34-YELLOW-TOP-O...QQcmdZViewItem

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DEKA-...temZ8026536456
as per aaroncake's suggestion

its going in an '87 TII thats used as a daily driver with a mid-range stereo system

Thunder Shift

is anyone using a group 34 battery? how does it fit?

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

sorry man, dunno the size i have but here is another vote for the optima. i have an FD alternator and optima yellow-top, love em, they work great.

Dynamic_Drifter

get an odyssey dry cell batt.www.odysseybatteries.com

Thunder Shift

in what size?

swanton187

have you been to Optima's web site???? they tell you right there.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you guys...man oh man...THE BATTERY IS USED FOR STARTING..the alternator supplies a regulated voltage and what ever amperge is needed ..up to the alternators capacity..if you exceed the amperage of the alternator YOU FRY IT..the reason that people upgrade is that it is better to run with an alternator workin at 60-70% of its capacity than at 100%..that is why they go to a higher amperage alternator..and also if you want to put one of those friggin Thump! Thump! stereos in your car the alternator can adequately supply it without burning itself out..now for safety..Gelled battery ..but realistically a Diehard is just as good under the hood..

RotaryX

If you drive a S4 on a stock alt. Then you need to upgrade the alt regardless of having a aftermarket stereo or not. Our cars in there stock form are almost pushing the alt to its limit.

Get a FD alt and a cap and your done. A battery can not help with consumption burst that occur while listening to music with bass. A cap can dispense the power faster, and is a good buffer between the amp and the alt.

RotaryX

rotohokie

I'm using an Optima Red-Top size 35/75 in my '91. I think the double size numbers indicates that it has both side and top posts. Anyway, this size fits perfectly in the stock battery tray. I just had to use the spacer that came with the battery underneath so that everything would fit properly.

Thunder Shift

i don't see the yellowtop being offered in either 35 or 35/75
isnt the fd alternator load sensing? i heard the alternator would fry itself or something, care to explain?
thanks for actually answering the question, but thats the size listed on the optima website (and it seems they dont make the yellowtops in that size)

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well i don't know, my alternator is doing fine and I have a standalone, msd 6a, electric fan, all aftermarket gauges with lights, and all my regular stuff and it runs just fine. now one battery i can tell yall not to get is the one autozone sells for the 88tII. It's about half the size of a regular battery and if you crank that bad boy like 4 or 5 times without it starting the ****** goes dead. Ask me how I know I need another batter, was thinking optima till i found this thread. looks like die hard here i come.

Thunder Shift

aaroncake recommended the deka intimidators...

any comments on the use of a fd alternator?

RotaryX

Here is the diagram that has been floating around the forum. Ive been running an FD alternator for about a year now. With no problems.






Your alternator will be fine, but If you had a battery die on you from turning over the motor just 5 times then the alt. wasn't able to run all your acc and charge the battery very well.

The S4 alternator has an output of 60amps. Where a FD alternator has an output of over 100Apms. And on average an electric fan pulls anywhere form 15 to 30 amps. So at night you have the fan, headlights, stereo, Taillights, brake-lights(at moments), windshield wipers (when raining, ................ A small amplifier can pulls 20-30 amps by itself.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

no amp here the only music I listen to usually is just the sound of the rotary i only have a crapy head unit witch i usually don't listen too. but yeah I'm not doubting the greatness of the fd alternator at all I just know that this crapy battery is more likely the culprit for my 5 crank troubles than my s4 alternator. seriously this battery is half the size of the normal battery.

niburu

iTrader: (1)

I've had an Optima Redtop in my FC going on 2 years now with no problem.
I put an Oddysey PC1200 in my FD with very good results - I spent a good chunk of time de-flooding the car one day and the amount of starting and turning over would have killed most batteries.

torean

u can easily check ur alt by measuring the battery voltage while the car is running....it should read 13+ volts if ur alt is good....my FD alt and optima redtop gives me a reading 15.1 in the morning then 14.4 when its all warmed up

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

hondahater ..the reason why you only get 3-4 trys to start your car with your little battery is the fact that it is A LITTLE BATTERY..therefore the rating of cranking amps(needed to roll the starter over) is low..If you had a bigger battery(or one with more cranking amps) it would make a difference..when you try to start the car and it doesn't start and then try again, the battery capacity is being drained..so you only get so much power out of it before it will GAG and not have enough power to roll the engine over..when the car starts the Alternator starts to recharge the battery and run the Accessories,lights what have you on the car..the higher the amperage output on the alternator..will mean that the alternator can supply more Juice to recharge the battery PLus run the devices ..regular size is fine ..if your car starts without problems and you want a smaller battery,go for it!..But if the car is prone to Hard starting then the choice would be to stick with a bteery that has the ability to roll the engine over Multple times without dying before the car starts..

stockrex

talk about little batteries,
back during turkey sales I bought a 300 amp standalone charge jump devices (sealed battery)
I drive in from novi and see my neighbor needing a jump for this nearly new tundra quad cab truck.
so I take my flashy new toy,
what the... the starter barely clicks and does not even turn.

so now drive my camry over and started it up and revved it to 3k rpm, bumped again, won't even turn, just click click.

we were about to give up when I checked on the tundra's battery, 660 amp or something ridiculous like that, wow.

so we put my mighty jump battery and the camry in parallel and bingo, the tundra started.

ROTARYROCKET7

Rx7 needs like what 425ca, the optima give ya like 900 for the redtop. Mines doing fine. Constant 14.4 volts

Jason NYC

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah you are exactly right, that is why I'm saying the battery is the culprit and not the alternator. I'm constantly working on my car and since it's a new engine I like to give it compression tests on a pretty regular basis and I'm telling you what after a compression test of just the rear rotor the freakin battery died so yes this thing is ment for cranking and going not working on your car. I will see how much optimas are on ebay but at the local store they are like 130 bucks so the one that aaron cake mentioned seems to be the winner if I can get it off of ebay for cheaper than an optima in town.