Ok I want to know if it is possible to relocate the battery to the rear but instead of grounding to chassis can I run both the new positive and negative to there corresponding original wires and solder them together? Also doing this will I need a I still need the breaker?

 

You "could".....but why? laziness? That's never a good reason for any mod.

That's a stupid amount of heavy gauge wire to run, have you priced that? (assuming when you say "rear" that you actually mean rear and not "storage bin")

For that reason, yes you would still need a breaker, a properly relocated battery has roughly 12-15' of wire connecting it with the stock system and the recommendation is to have a breaker no more than a foot from the battery. Some even use a second breaker in the engine bay. Should go w/o saying that adding 5' of wire and using no breaker(s) is....unwise.

EDIT: I would like to see your THAT soldering iron.

 

Soldering would not even be possible. You need proper crimp connections for that.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BATTRELO/battwiring.jpg

Note where the ground cable is recommended to be 18 inches or less. Running the positive to the stock wiring is acceptable, but many people would just rewire that, too.

 

Run the positive to the starter,then run From the starter to the Small cable that feeds the Fuse box(engine bay).

 

ok so if I ground in the rear what do I do with the original negative cable?

 

replace it with a 4 gauge ground from the frame to the engine

 

I followed the fc3spro method exactly, and it works great. It wasn't very difficult and having the breaker in the engine bay is very useful. Everytime I'm working on something, power on, power off, just like that. Here's another link to the fc3spro write-up.

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BA.../battrelo.html