nineteen83rx7

Hey guys,
Is there any possible way to maintain a cold idle without the cold start stuff? (standalone, safc, anything??) Bought this car from a user with emissions already removed, so i dont have any of the parts. But as of right now, wont idle when cold, and when warm idles steady at 1500, but if revs drop quickly, itll idle below 1000, until u blip the gas, then idles back at 1500. any ideas? 87 tII btw. no bac, tw, ap, all the fun emissions. TPS, AFM, timing all checked.

Alternatively, do any standalones eliminate the need for it? Planning to go microtech in the future, but if i have to recollect a lot of emissions parts before anything will work, then itll delay me for a bit.

Or is my best bet searching for a unmolested TB?

NZConvertible

A standalone can only control idle speed if it's connected to an idle control valve (BAC valve). A cold engine needs more fuel and air, which is not something an electronic device can do on it's own.

Your problem sounds worse than I'd expect just from removing the idle controls. Sounds more like a vac leak...

RotaMan99

I tried one day to use an electronic solenoid to bypass air around the TB for cold start idle but had didn't come out to great. Once the RPMs got up to I think around 1200-1300, the engine would bounce and the more air you bypassed the more it would bounce it would not go past a certain rpm. I believe this is due to the TPS still reading 1v while you are trying to raise the rpms without any change to the throttle reading.

I think standalone is the only way you would be able to go around this.

forced inducted fd dude

vacuum leak imo

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I'd go for an unmolested TB. Put a WTB ad out and check the classifieds. On a street driven car, it's worth having the BAC and fast idle systems.

nineteen83rx7

I did buy a bac valve off of a member on these forums, its just waiting to get put on (gotta buy hoses).

As far as vac leaks go, ive checked and checked and checked and checked.
..but ill check again.