back in the game
05-25-08, 10:39 AM
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back in the game
hey guys whats up. i been out of the rotary game for about 4 years ever since my tII was wrecked into. im picking up an 87 TII for one helluva deal. i drive a mid 12 sec z28 and i was wondering what would it take for a mid to low 12 sec 7 i want this car to be for the track and drag. thanx
Aaron
Aaron
05-25-08, 11:30 AM
#2
First, check out the single turbo forum for more info on this type of stuff. The short answer is, it all depends on how nice of a setup you can afford, but I'm going to give you some ideas on one of the more optimal ways to do it.
Now the more weight reduction you are willing to do the less power you will need. Is this motor healthy? Stock ports? First, you need to make sure you are up on all the maintainence. If you've got the money get the motor rebuilt with a street port and an s5 rear iron (s4 ones are weaker but are not 100% guaranteed to crack, mine's holding up to 20psi so far). You can still meet your goals though on a stock port motor with good compression.
If you want good response and power on pump gas your best bet is a GT35R setup from say A-Spec, or you can piece a setup together yourself. Then you will want a standalone EMS (Haltech, Microtech, Power FC, Megasquirt, etc. , depends on what your tuner/installer is most comfortable with) with the Bosch 160lb secondary injectors and a fuel pressure regulator. On pump gas and stock ports with a GT35R you can do usually do high 300's safely if tuned well and over 400 with porting. You will also need an upgraded radiator no matter what you do, the Koyo units will get the job done.
As far as drivetrain goes, you will want urethane motor and tranny mounts and an upgraded differential mount, none of which is expensive in parts just takes some labor to install. You will want an upgraded clutch too (ACT Street/Strip is fine) and you can get away with a stock flywheel but you might want an upgraded one.
That's for a medium-cost setup. If you want to do it uber cheap, use the motor that's in there, do major weight reduction, get a BNR stage 4 hybrid turbo, make a custom front mount, use 720/1000 cc injectors, and run an Rtek 2.1 programmable ECU (that's still pushing it though, you can go for a used oldschool Haltech as well), with stock flywheel, upgraded clutch and upgraded mounts, and upgraded radiator . Just don't cheap out on the tuning. Get as much stuff used as you can. You will have less response and less top end but you will have thousands more in the bank for suspension, tires, etc.
Now the more weight reduction you are willing to do the less power you will need. Is this motor healthy? Stock ports? First, you need to make sure you are up on all the maintainence. If you've got the money get the motor rebuilt with a street port and an s5 rear iron (s4 ones are weaker but are not 100% guaranteed to crack, mine's holding up to 20psi so far). You can still meet your goals though on a stock port motor with good compression.
If you want good response and power on pump gas your best bet is a GT35R setup from say A-Spec, or you can piece a setup together yourself. Then you will want a standalone EMS (Haltech, Microtech, Power FC, Megasquirt, etc. , depends on what your tuner/installer is most comfortable with) with the Bosch 160lb secondary injectors and a fuel pressure regulator. On pump gas and stock ports with a GT35R you can do usually do high 300's safely if tuned well and over 400 with porting. You will also need an upgraded radiator no matter what you do, the Koyo units will get the job done.
As far as drivetrain goes, you will want urethane motor and tranny mounts and an upgraded differential mount, none of which is expensive in parts just takes some labor to install. You will want an upgraded clutch too (ACT Street/Strip is fine) and you can get away with a stock flywheel but you might want an upgraded one.
That's for a medium-cost setup. If you want to do it uber cheap, use the motor that's in there, do major weight reduction, get a BNR stage 4 hybrid turbo, make a custom front mount, use 720/1000 cc injectors, and run an Rtek 2.1 programmable ECU (that's still pushing it though, you can go for a used oldschool Haltech as well), with stock flywheel, upgraded clutch and upgraded mounts, and upgraded radiator . Just don't cheap out on the tuning. Get as much stuff used as you can. You will have less response and less top end but you will have thousands more in the bank for suspension, tires, etc.
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