I did the check as in the FSM, If you unplug the BAC, the idle is NOT affected, the max spec for resistance is 12.3 ohms and its at 13.something. If you give it 12v it clicks. Is it possible for it to click and still not work? I'm trying to diagnose a few probs and high idle is one of them. Timing has already been set, idle speed won't come down. It sits at about 1k rpm...

 

This url is worth looking at. If you do not have a Turbo, read it anyway, there is not that much difference. The relevant material is down the page, not at the beginning. Actually it sounds to me like you have a vaccum leak, or the fast idle cam and thermo wax assy is out of whack. My car is set properly in this area, except about two weeks ago I took my thermostat out of the car(even I don't remember exactly why) and ever since the thermo wax assy will not melt enough for the fast idle cam to completly come off the cam. It could be several other things also. Timing too far advanced? etc. Oh, the url http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html

 

Should have said something else. I can almost guarantee that if the idle is around 1k, then even if you have a perfect bac, taking the plug off will not show any results because you are already letting in so much air from another source that the bac will not make any noticable difference. My understanding(not always the way things are in real life). Throttle butterflies cracked open too much? You probably already have one but if you do not go to the free manual at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com and look in section 4a for N/A or 4B for turbo. Has you setting the idle etc. Shows hte fast idle screw, the thermowax device, the cam it rides on. Make sure you have a thermostat in the car and the water hose is connected to the throttle body and the line is not clogged. Could be a lot of different things(standard disclaimer so that when you find that the thigamajig is off by two hairs you can't blame me).