OK, update of sorts. Took off BAC, gave it the "temp fix, clean", and brought the readings within parameters per FSM. After, drove around, checked TPS again. Had to reset to 1.0, and drove it again. Checked BAC, still good, TPS fine at 1.0. Ran WOT, above specs at 6.1.

Interesting points to add. Trouble codes previously, 12 & 18, TPS , full and narrow, respectively, now only 12, full. Makes sense, getting better. But, now the check engine light is on from start up. Came across working TPS, should have in two days. Also, AFM, CAS, and timing are all within specs.

If anyone has anymore ideas, send them on. I will post more as they develop, and one last thing: Starter took a dump, and blew out the passenger side tire 2 days ago, same day. I am SERIOUSLY looking for another Vert, this one will be new by the time my NOW 17 year old kids takes ownership, and mucho buckos arrive today. Sell me one, so I can make it new also.

Thanks for everyone's help.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Why? Personally, with how loud my car is anyways, people probably think I'm idling at 84309340rpm or something.

 

What is the condition of the actual connector? Could be a corrosion problem. Do you have another TPS to swap in as a test?

 

man ... you're just nit picking me now ... thats completely up to interpretation and calling me out for that is a bit pointless and not needed...

by "fine" idle i meant the car DOESNT stall ... stays alive on its own.... etc etc
in the original post i quoted, the dude said without all that stuff the car WONT idle .. i was just saying .. yes it will ...


why? im the only one that notices .. i have a racing beat exhaust and my tone is very quiet ... it sounds almost the exact same at 800 as it does at... hell 1500


i have a few reasons for keeping it that high
one is to keep it from stalling when i first start it up .. that way i dont have to baby the gas to keep it alive until its warmed up a bit .. (because i have no thermowax) ... since i have it set this high .. i can start it up .. blip the gas like 3 times and it will hold an idle while i got back in the house and wait a wee bit ...
this is personal preference and shouldnt be regarded as something seriously wrong ..

i assume its the gauge and i have an aftermarket ready to install just havent gotten around to it ...



i read alot of your posts, you're a knowledgable guy, and you have helped me in the past, but you're attempting to make me out to be a dumbass with a fucked up engine ..

the ONLY reason it idles that high is becuase i set it there via the idle set screw
on the back of the TB. I had this car idling PERFECTLY at 750-800, and i changed it after swapping TB's ...

why did i set it there? because i have no BAC valve to accomidate for load under varying conditions ... and before you make fun of me for having no BAC valve, i've already stated in this thread and SEVERAL others that if i could do it over again i wouldnt remove the BAC ...


i just dont understand the reason for trying to belittle me

 

No corrosion problem Aaron Cake. I clean all male and female connectors whenever I disconnect any of them. Got a special "file" for connector cleaning. Should have another TPS shortly. Thanks for the input, its all good.

PEACE THE DOG

 

HAILERS:

your post about the timing advancing when the A/C turns on might explain an issue i have been having. i have an SAFC-II, and i recently tuned my cruise very lean, by going to the point that the engine would start dying, then richen it up again a bit. now, i did this while the A/C was off.
one day, i turned the A/C on, and i was cruising along, and my engine started really surging and stuttering, etc. i couldn't figure it out until i richened the fuel up a bit on cruise, then the problem went away.

sorry to be off topic, just though i'd mention that, considering the original poster fixed the problem...

so many wierd things with these cars i find out...like how the left side of the car has different springs than the right (so says the FSM)

 

I never watched the timing while driving and turning the a/c on. I only did that at idle. I've no idea what happens to the timing if I turn the a/c on at a steady speed. I might take a look later today.

I know about the front springs being different on the front. I'm not sure just why. Gotta take a look sometime. Spring rates different?? Mazdatrix site might say one way or the other. I think they show stock spring rates on their site. Maybe, maybe not.

 

yup, front only i think. the FSM doesn't mention spring rates specifically, but if you take a look at the suspension section (in the S5 manual anyways) all the coil dimensions are different. wierd...