Ok I read the rotary resurection website emisions removal and it says when you remove the BAC to block off the coolant line that runs to it, is the best thing to do or would it be better to run it behind some how?

 

Well my set up was just by-passing the bac valve with a continous hose from throtle body to the thermostat housing neck.

 

well it's still going through the throttle body unless you're over riding that too. you can just unscrew the coolant line off the back and zip tie it to something (coolant doesn't go into the actual BAC, it's just screwed on). or you can cap both sides, but they hold a lot of pressure, so I would probably use some jb weld, or even take the nipples out and tap the hole and put bolts in them.

I put water weld, RTV, a vacuum cap with a hose clap around it on my rear one (on the iron) and recently it started leaking... water weld doesn't seem to hold up to coolant well, I wouldn't use it again.

why are you getting rid of you BAC valve though? it has nothing to do with emissions...

 

cuz its not working

 

Fix it, replace it, and get it working. The BAC is one of the few things worth keeping, it has a lot to do with idle quality and really should be kept.

 

Why don't you just replace the BAC valve if it's not working? They can be had for pretty cheap.

 

just take it off and spray a bunch of carb cleaner in there, it'll fix it.

 

you don't really need a water hose for the BAC anyway. its primary purpose is to keep the valve from freezing in cold temperatures.