I have done research and can't seem to figure out how to adjust my idle. Car is freshly streetported and I'm just trying to get it to idle around 1300. I thought I knew what I was doing adjusting the throttle and then fine tuning with the bac but I just made it worse and now it will idle up to like 1700 than even itself out at 13-14 but whenever I push in the clutch after moving it idles up to 2k. The car is in break in still and I can't run any boost but when I shift into 2nd my rpms are to high causing it to boost. I'm sure it is just my idle/throttle needs adjusted but I'm clueless on how to do it. I feel like its because I was messing with it and didn't know what I was doing and just threw it out of whack. Can anyone help me out.

 

Bump. Someone please help. Can't break in engine until problem is fixed

 

Before setting the idle did you jumper the Initial Set Coupler?

 

No was I supposed to?

 

turn the screw in on the BAC, if that doesn't bring it down enough then there is an idle set screw underneath the intercooler facing the passenger side of the engine.

also be sure the throttle cable is slack.

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

The bottom of this page will help you, also provides visuals. Have you checked other related parameters such as CAS, timing, and TPS? Last week I went over all that stuff to finally get a solid idle. Once you properly adjust all those things, you should be able to set your idle as you like. Also, do you reference the FSM? It's all over the web for free and is a valuable asset which will definitely help you with all the adjustments I referenced.

 

Just tested the tps and it was 1.7kohms at a still and it only goes to 3.6 at WOT isn't that too low?? It says that it should be 1k at idle and 5-6k at WOT. Is this what is causing my idle to be bouncy and rev up when I push the clutch in?

 

The TPS should be set to 1 voltw/key to on at the Green/Red wire, and the engine as hot as it can get.

 

You mean 1k ohm? Or should I be measuring voltage?

 

Satch> "The TPS should be set to 1 voltw/key to on at the Green/Red wire, and the engine as hot as it can get." back probe wire, while plugged in, 1 Volt to ground.

 

Hey I was working on her the other day and I set the tps to 1 ohm at idle while it was warm. It seemed to have made it a little better and once I have it warmed up it will hold idle around 1k which is kinda a miracle but, when it is cold and when I first start it, it refuses to idle. I have to manualley work the throttle to warm it up , but after I do that it idles good? I'm gonna retest the tps again and work with the bac but why will it not idle when its cold? Can anyone help me???

 

Sounds like the thermowax system has been removed. Has the throttle body been modified?

 

Are you talking about the subzero starting tank? The little tank that was sitting by the charcoal canister and cruise control? I was told that it was pointless and it had no fluid so I removed it. The throttle body doesn't look modified. Do you think that maybe my throttle cable is sticking? There is rust in some spots but I can't see how that would cause it to not idle when cold.

 

Is this what you are talking about?

 

Nevermind I know what you are talking about now. I'm about to test the tps again and see if I have that valve

 

Drove car today, it pops at low rpms when I boost it but when I take it to 5k its smooth. Anyone know what it could be? Maybe vacuum?

 

Whats your fuel system and computer? Also what kind of pop?

 

Stock fuel and ecu, its just like a spudder kind of

 

pops and backfires when i give it gas while rolling but after i get to 4-5k rpms its smooth as hell and sounds great. the engine was streetported with a rebuilt turbo and thats it everything else is stock, fuel, ecu, ect. i plan to get a haltech ecu and tune it once i get the money. do you think that this would solve my problem if i tuned it? sounds like the air/fuel is wack.

 

Stop driving it... Street port with stock fueling and no wideband is asking for trouble exp if it has after market exhaust and intake. Get a wideband, a fuel pump and a way to control fuel (Megasquirt, power fc, etc....)

 

I was planning on getting all that but wouldn't it be a good idea to break in my engine first? Its got about 700 miles on it.

 

Yes it would be a good idea to break in your engine, with the right parts to go along with the build. A street port, pending on how large, can make it go lean under boost. And if it creeps beyond 10ish with a fuel cut defender, the ecu dosent have enough fuel to keep everything happy.

 

Thanks! Adpatronics coming in the mail along with a fuel system. Would it be a good idea to get fpr too or would I need to get bigger rails and lines?