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That B!^CH water line...

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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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That B!^CH water line...

hi, on Turbos and TII is there any trick to getting on the water line that runs underneath the TB?
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 12:06 AM
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Make sure the "pipes" are clean and use a little lubricant. Have the clamps in place so that you can reach them with your screwdriver, if you are using those types.

GL it IS a bitch.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 03:32 AM
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i use a bit of silicone spray lube it seems tto work for me.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 09:55 AM
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I have better luck getting the line on and off the block rather than the throttle body.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 10:20 AM
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Just remove it and block it off.

No more headaches.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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The coolant line that goes from the TB to the block...
I replaced mine last time I had the manifold off but I think if you remove the hood it would make it a little easier. At least it appeared that way last time I had my hood off and was inspecting the clearance.
Ohhh yeah, and I wouldn't reuse the oem style clamp that is on it.. installation will be smoother using a screw style hose clamp.

Last edited by Soma; Sep 22, 2007 at 11:22 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 02:12 PM
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definitely, those OEM clamps are such a pain to deal with on those little hoses way back in there... took me like 15 minutes and two nicked up hands to get those on and off last time I dealt with them!
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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yeah, i can get the whole UIM off (EVERYTHING) in a record of 17.5min (yes i timed my self). and you cant block it off or the car will not get the proper coolent flow because my stock hose riped and insted of ordering and waiting i got bulk hose, however it cant make that sharp of an angle in that small of a space and then it kinks causing over heating problems.
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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i suppose you could bypass it with a bit of pipe to the BAC but i dont know what this would affect, does any one have any ideas?
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:32 PM
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That's the one always get the rust for some reason. I just use a good pair of pliers to get the OE clamp out of the way, then get grip around the hose with the same plier to twist it, comes right off. I used to be afraid that I would crack or rip the hose, but worked every time after destroying my knuckles a few times. Wish I just did that from the beginning. If the hose is pretty much gone or partially melted, it doesn't matter to keep it anyways, or just cut the first 3/4 inch of it off after.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 02:30 PM
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putting it back on is my main issue, i still think its a bitch
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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Don't set your upper manifold and tb back down all the way. Leaved it raised up an inch or so. Use some vaseline on the nipple and then a little on the inside of the hose. It will slide down with the force of two fingers then. It's a PITA, but still doable.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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I'd love to see the guy that did it in the factory.

He must have been cursing all day long.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by F.C.3S
I'd love to see the guy that did it in the factory.

He must have been cursing all day long.

the motors are long blocked before they go into the car... makes it a lot easier to assemble that way


as far as taking it off and putting it on.... it's just a pain in the ***. A little lube and patients goes a long way
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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I hate that hose. So glad that I am installing the new motor all together so it is already on there and done.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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The guy at the dealer here use a torch to bend a pair of pliers in a 90 degree angle. That helped him
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 05:14 AM
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I don't get why people think this hose is sooo hard. With a few simple (and obvious) tricks, it's easy to remove and reinstall.

Firstly, replace the squeeze clamps with screw clamps. Not only to they provide a more secure connection, it's much easier to reach in with a screwdriver than pliers. Secondly, remove the rubber elbow from the TB. This allows you to lean the UIM up against the firewall as shown below. As you can see, the hose is reasonably easy to reach. And lastly as mentioned, used a little spray lube in each end of the hose.



Easy. Not worth all the whining...
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 08:32 AM
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as i can see you only have the end of yours on, i want mine like OE all the way on. and iff the engine was out it would be really easy cuz you could get at it from the back sideof the engine
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BASTARD
it's just a pain in the ***. A little lube and patients goes a long way
what are we talking about?
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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i also hate this ******* hose...

yesterday i took my UIM off the fourth (!!) time since i have the car... im so glad that i got a new spare hose from my mazda dealer

i cust cut this bitch of everytime... the hose only costs about 8dollar from mazda... so i have one new OEM hose laying around everytime to be save
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gear_grinder
as i can see you only have the end of yours on, i want mine like OE all the way on.
The stock hose does not go all the way on (it's far too short to even reach), and it doesn't need to. It goes on far enough to be securely clamped, and I've never had a problem with it.

Originally Posted by SpAm@FC
i cust cut this bitch of everytime... the hose only costs about 8dollar from mazda... so i have one new OEM hose laying around everytime to be save
You're wasting your time and money. I only cut the hose the first time, since it was baked on after nearly 15 years. With a new replacement hose I've never had a problem removing it. Once the clamp is loosened it slides off easily.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
The stock hose does not go all the way on (it's far too short to even reach), and it doesn't need to. It goes on far enough to be securely clamped, and I've never had a problem with it.


My OE replacement from Mazdatrix kinks up if it isn't pushed all the way on both nipples.
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