wankelhead

got a question about what class one would fall into...maybe somebody can give me a idea.the vauge part is,the car would have 89+higer compression rotors,as well as a 89+ intake manifold,on a 87'[n/a]..would this automaticaly put it into "prepared"?thanks
david

stickgoat

http://www.scca.org should give a decent description of what fits into the different autox classes...

http://www.autocross.com is a good informative site, too.

Hope this helps...

wankelhead

hmm..i think the rules/regulations pages are down on scca..anybody else?

go_speed_go

The intake would be allowed in Street Prepared as intake and fuel delivery are 'open'. The rotors would be subject to interpretation of the rules regarding back-date/update. Porting will definately move you to prepared (unless you can hide the loping )

I wouldn't worry where you're going to wind up, because honestly, the ol' 7 isn't a competative autocross car in Street Prepared any more. It's still a blast to drive and will be fun, but the Miatas and CRXs are way faster.

In Prepared, it could be a competative car, but the $$$ you shell out to get there would be deep into 5 figures.

I autocrossed a '90 Convertible for 5 years, first in stock, then in CSP.
I loved every event I drove it in and showed many lesser drivers in better cars lower times. Have fun!

wankelhead

cool!!thats what i needed to hear..thanks a lot
david

RETed

At the local level, most people won't give a crap what you're running.&nbsp The chassis would put you in C-Street Prepared.&nbsp Technically, the hi-comp rotors would stuff you into B-Prep(?), as you can only back-date components.&nbsp You're better off running in IT-S!




-Ted

wankelhead

where can i get some info on IT-S?i'm pretty much a greenhorn here,and just looking to get involved with some entry level stuff and go from there.also,$$'s is a issue,and i dont know much about it-s,what kind of money is involved[other then the car-heh]?thanks
david

go_speed_go

IT-S is a class for Solo I.
It allows you be classed in CSP for autocrossing, but you have to be compliant with all the Solo I rules including having a roll bar and wheels no larger than 15x7. You're allowed to gut some of your car and do a lot of other neat $$$ things, but if this is your daily driver, it's a bad idea to even consider.

If your green, just show up and have fun. Don't worry about doing anything to your car for several events until you're a little more broken in and you know it's something you're going to stick with.

When you show up, be sure mention to the people at registration it's your first time, etc. Each region usually has some sort of introduction and small orientation for newbies & novices to help them along amd make sure they have fun.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

If it all looks stock under the hood, you can get away with calling it stock for local races


Ending up in a street prepared class can suck, My t2 has engine mods that put it into ASP, but doesn't have the suspension and tires to back it up! (yet) Some of the ASP rules are screwed tho, a T2 and a 3rd gen with mods end up in ASP together, but my car with its mods are as fast as a stock 3rd gen, and a 3rd gen with my mods is in the 270RWHP range...

Gene

iTrader: (1)

oh yeah, regarding up-dating and back-dating of components. it's complicated. I think you can actually swap certain parts, tho sometimes you have to swap the whole motor.

FPrep2ndGenRX7

I may be wrong but even with the higher compression rotors and 89+ intake would still put you in CSP unless you ported the engine at which point you are in FP(with me) or maybe you could run in SM2 on street tires.

go_speed_go wrote: In Prepared, it could be a competative car, but the $$$ you shell out to get there would be deep into 5 figures.

I have to disagree with the high dollar amount required for a competitive car. The car that won BP at Nationals this year is a prime example of a low cost car. After talking to the owner I feel you could reproduce his car for no more than $12,000, possibly less. He did his homework/research and most of the work himself. All the parts are available for anyone to buy on the internet. My car is also a low cost car for a prepared class car but it also will never be able to compete Nationally with me driving it, much less someone else. When all is said and done I will have about $8000 in my car over a three year period not counting the trailer and tow vehicle. That isin't cheap but locally and possibly divisionally the car will be semi competitive depending on my driving and who shows up.

go_speed_go

I stand somewhat corrected. You can build a regional/divisional competative Prepared car for < 10,000.

When I was adding the numbers up in my head, I was going by the list I was told for a F prepared 1st gen which was going to be competing nationally. Those guys spend crazy money. Of course the national level guys in stock can spend pretty wicked amounts too.

Doing work yourself can cut down a lot of the budget.

Ryde _Or_Die

Hey do win any money for winning or anything?

Cwaters

you win the pride and jow of knowing you were the best! And maybe a little trophy

Cory Waters
hasn't won anything YET!

SpeedRacer

I disagree...I ran very competitively this year in CSP in my 90 GTU. I have intake, racepipe, and GC Coilovers, and those are only mods, besides weight reduction, and 4-piston calipers. I beat tons of guys running with R-compounds(I have Yokohama AVS), mainly Kumho V700's and Hoosiers. In fact if I was going to be here next year I am pretty sure I would be in therunning for a possible #1 overall for my region(assuming I got race tires). The CSP National's in Topeka Winner this year was an RX-3. At the Bremerton Nationals this year, an FB took 1st by over a second. 2nd and 3rd was a new Toyota Mr2 spyder(same car, 2 drivers), and I came in 4th in my FC. After that was a few Miatas and CRX's and a Del Sol I think.

go_speed_go

Again, I'm referring to Divisional and National levels.

Have you driven against a fully prepped CSP Miata or CRX with a capable driver? A regional event will not offer any realistic gauge for the competativeness of your car or your driving abilities. I've known several 'hot shoes' who did very well in their region but came back from divisionals with wide eyes and dropped jaws saying "I had no idea how much faster people can drive."

I ran very competatively in my regional CSP class until someone with a national caliber car & driving skill shows up. Then it turns into a competition for 2nd place between myself and the rest of the pack.

The RX-3 that won at nationals, from what I understand, is one hell of a car, but it's not an RX-7 which is what I was referring to. When you look at National standings, CSP is otherwise dominated by the CRX, MR2, and Miata. The old CRX & MR2 is just as extinct as the RX-7, but you still see them placing in national competition because they're competative.

Don't get me wrong, I love the RX-7. I drove RX-7's for 9 years. They're great cars and still do very well on Solo I and door-to-door road racing, but their competative days autocrossing in stock and Street prepared (except for the 3rd gen) are in the past.

By the way if you do intend to drive in a divisional event, you need to ditch the cross drilled rotors. They're not legal in street prepared. Even though they don't provide any major advantage, divisional events not only draw out higher caliber drivers, but also a few higher caliber whiners who'll protest anything outside the letter of the rules that goes faster than they do.

FPrep2ndGenRX7

Continued from my post above, the car that won BP at Nationals this year was an 87 TurboII and all the cars he beat were Corvettes. The Corvettes had atleast 100-150 HP more than the TurboII and it still didn't matter. The car was well driven and setup properly not the mention the driver has lots of seat time driving this year running ever event he could.

BhamBill

In 2000 I won my class locally so I went out and bought my 88 GTU last winter. The spring change moved me from CS to CSP. This year I went down to Seattel to compete in a bigger pond. Over the course of the year I improved in relation to the winning time because of my driving improvement more than anything I did to the car. At the beginning of the season "winning time/my time" was .88. At the end of the season it was .94. I started the season in last, finished in midpack.

The point is that if you're getting started don't worry too much about what you're going to do to the car. Unless the suspension is really bad the car is capable of staying with you untill you learn what you're doing. If you decide you want to compete at the national level later, you'll figure out which car will give you the best chance to do so.

SpeedRacer

Thanks for letting me know, I had no clue they were illegal. I actually only have rear x-drilled rotors, which is even LESS of an adavantage. I got them for free from a forum member. i'm surprised nobody complained to me at the Bremerton Nationals. I was one place out of the trophies, or otherwise somebody probably would have protested.