well i found a steal of a 7 with mint body and lots of work done to it, but the problem is, its a autotragic, so how much to change it to stick would it cost or if its worth it at all.

 

It's far easier than most people would have you believe..
Basic costs...
*$50-150 flywheel [This would be the best time to get a light flywheel if you want one, aftermarket ones will bolt directly to the automatic counter weight, preventing you from having to remove the flywheel nut....]
*$50-150 manual trans [S5!!! Or S4 with an S5 tailshaft - the S5 trans has the Y-braket that bolts on diagonally to the trans]
*$100 OEM grade clutch kit
*$130 clutch hydraulics [Buy all brand new ones from Mazdatrix! It's a HUGE pain to keep replacing parts when you try to go cheap... and $130 really isn't bad for brand new Mazda parts - master cyl, slave cyl, hard line, and some soft line.. You're probably safe to use either the stainless steel one or the pure rubber one]
*20-50[?] brake/clutch pedals and bar
$30-60 Manual driveshaft
$30 misc parts [angle steel to replicate the trans mounts, spade connectors, wire]

And then some time.
Basically: Take the auto out, take the auto crossmember and bolt it to your S5 manual trans, install a manual or aftermarket flywheel [much easier], install clutch kit, bolt the trans to the motor, measure how far forward you need to have the mounts and cut/drill two pieces of angle steel [the back end will bolt into the body where the auto crossmember use to, the front will need nuts/bolts to attach to the auto crossmember], secure those, install drive shaft, do the wiring [search for my post about S4 auto->manual wiring -- it's really easy], remove the bar that holds up the brake/clutch pedals [you do NOT have to drop the steering wheel/remove the pedal assembly!] insert the manual bar and pedals, install the clutch cylinders, adjust the pushrod for the clutch pedal so that it just touches the piston in the clutch master cyl., bleed the clutch and enjoy!

 

or if u were lucky like me and had access to a donor car, cut the manual mounts out and weld em in to the auto car.

 

Yea, that is a better way of doing it.. But you have to be able to weld [I can't yet], lift or remove the carpet in the front and make sure to get them lined up right.

Driving a factory manual car back to back with mine I found out that the angle steel is actually very close to having factory mounts, I didn't notice any difference. Of course.. If you have turbo aspirations then I'd get worried about the extra load on the angle steel..