yeah thats what i thought. too loud eh?
thanks for your knowledge. was searching ebay for the thunderbird coin/cup and they are trying to sell em for 35 american, are they pretty common at the junkers?

sorry about the quadruple posts

where do u find the coupe brackets or the double din adapters?

 

Yep, the majority of the sound should come from in front of you. You could fix that by turning down the rear speakers with the fader control, but then you might as well have bought smaller (cheaper) rear speakers. Stick with the stock locations and you'll be fine.

 

My vert trunk with an IDQ 12. Its a great lightweight, small box (.6 cu ft) it barely adds weight to the car. Mine is in a 1 cu ft truck box so it takes up a good part of the trunk. It sounds great with 200 watts and its a perfect mix of sq and spl, more on the sq side. I run it off a Zapco Studio 100x. I've got boston speakers up front without the headrest speakers and i get a great balance.

As far as putting speakers in that cover over the spare tire, when the top goes down theyd barely be audible I think. It's not a bad idea to give a try though.

For audio questions, check out elitecaraudio.com. They have an awesome forum there. Do a seach on Image Dynamics stuff and youll read some great reviews on IDQs

 

thats sweet...

never heard of problems with the under hatch location.
would a 12 fit in the rear hatch area?
how do you compute how much volume a custom box needs?

 

You use the specs supplied with the speaker.

 

Cup holders are standard Saab/Ford cup holders found on many ford and Saab cars.

The silver panel was a long long time ago, and has been replaced long ago, with black.

 

also, any link on where to get the double din adapter kit or the coupe stereo brackets?

 

ttt

 

this one almost got away! lol

 

ttt

 

Yo Str8ballin-R... you can get the double din adapter from any car audio store, man. Might not be exactly as Icemark used but the standard one is perfectly fine and fits and looks great.

 

get this back up there .. i know its old ... but many of my questions remain unanswered as well.

losing the headrest speakers?
why couldnt we just wire these straight into where the front door speakers are coming from .. that way we still maintaing function over it with the volume controls for the speakers.

also the double din kit?
where the hell do you get a double din kit for this car? I'm about to give up and go and exchange this for a single din.

 

As to adding base to my S4 Vert:

I bought a self powered base tube (bazooka tube like) that fit iunder the rear cover well between the spare tire and the compartment side. I tapped signal from the feed from the stock head unit to the doorr speaker amp. Thumps pretty good, at least for my needs.

As to keeping the headrest speakers functioning:

As I understand it, the signal to the headrest stock amp is a powered signal in a S4 and a pre-out signal on S5's. Further, the stock headrest amp simply powers on via a signal from the stock head unit.

All that said, it would seem you could maintain the stock headrest speaker amp in an aftermarket setup as most aftermarket head units have some sort of powered on signal wire. IMHO, it's certainly preferable to maintain the headrest speakers. That because they are one of the things that makes a RX7 Vert special as it allows you to hear your tunes with the top down much better than what most any other convertible models can provide.

I've been thinking about getting a Pioneer Avic-Z1 as it's the first decent double din head unit that has come out that also can provide GPS. But, I'll only go that way IF I can maintain my headrest speakers.

Icemark credentials are beyond impressive in this arena. I noted that it seems he abandoned the headrest speakers in his aftermarket set up making me think it's more complicated that I envision. But, hoping Mark will comment on what I've outlined.

 

yea i just dont understand why its so difficult to keep them?

also .. am I SOL on a double din kit .... ? I've been searching for 24 hours

 

i say go kenwood....kenwood rocks in my car....some of the sound was already in my car so i just left it the way it was but if i had the money it would all be kenwood....but i got my 2 kenwood 12's pushin good with my 800 watt comp pushin them

 

This is my set up thus far:

1- RF P3001 mono amp
1- RF P3002 stereo amp
2- RF 8 gauge single amp wiring kits for both
2- RF T162C door speakers
2- RF T142C dash speakers
2- P18S4 subs
Alpine CDA-9856 head unit

Future mods
RF CPC10-03 1 Farad cap
720 CCA optima bat.
T162S component speakers to replace the T162C set in the door.

I like to stick with the Rockford Fosgate thing in the vert, but it is a very CLEAN Smooth system, none of that over bassed BOOM BOOM systems that these kids do,

The vert wasn’t the most advanced designed audio system in the day. My main complaint is all the sound is at you feet.

I used the cheap 20$ mounting kit and to tell you the truth it isn’t all that bad, it keeps a very stock look about it. In the filler panel below the head unit I installed the remote bass controllers for the amps.

If desired I can post up some pics of the mounting kit, and my custom sub box for the subs and amps.

 

did any of you have to have custom brackets made? i dont know about you guys but using the stock brackets puts my double din unit justified to the right of the hole in the dash (because when the stock unit was in there it had the mute button to compensate for the justification .. and made it look like it was centered)

I see no other way ?

 

i gave up and am still using the kit I originally picked up with two half inch space on either side. I dont really notice it anymore , however I assume if someone wanted to jack mY Alpine it would make it that much easier.
my alpine unit power the rockford fosgates in the stock location/stock sizing adequately enough for my likings. I dont really miss the headrest speakers to tell you the truth. the sound is sooo much better than with thr stock headunit and on the highway with the top down I crank the volume and can hear fine

 

I'd love to see the pics for that- it sounds a lot like what I'm considering doing with mine other than I'm going to make an effort to keep the full functionality (including the center console controls) of the headrest speakers, and will likely using a JVC-HDR1 head unit (I got a JVC iPod adapter for a good price over in the non-RX classifieds forum ). I'm definitely interested in seeing how you put the sub box in- I'm hoping to make/install one that allows me to keep the spare in its stock location. Are you using the mono amp to power both subs, and the stereo amp to run the doors?

 

Dunno what is really different from the RX-7 setup from any other car, but you will need the dash kit to take up the room in the dbl din, plus your going to need to buy a wiring harness specific to the Mazda.

Out of all the installs I have done, I always need a harness and a dash kit. As far as doing new speakers, I suggest re-running all the wiring for them. Its better to just do that so you got some good wire in there.Then just hook it up with the harness.

Also, if you are doing subs, do you plan to also amp your internal speakers? If so, I would suggest picking up Tsunami RCAs and a Tsunami Wiring Kit that will split for 2 amps.

As far as subs go, Kicker is very good. Also JL Audio 10W7s are also very very amazing. Those are alotmore pricey. If you want a single good sub, I would go with the Kicker 12'' CompVR 2 Ohm. There are two versions, the 4 and 2 ohm. Make sure you get the 2 ohm. Also when choosing componets speakers for highs and mids, go with what you thik sound the best. I have Eclipse 6x9s in the back, and 4'' Infinitys in the front of my daily. The Infinity 4'' is one of the best ones I have ever heard. They have amazing highs.

When choosing amps, try and go with MTX. They are very good. Watch it on your gain and bass boost tho. They tend to put out more power then they are ranked for. I would suggest going to Circuit City and getting a 2 yr city advantage plan on any subs/amps you buy.

SO all in all you need:

Wiring Kit - Preferably Tsunami
RCAs - Preferably Tsunami
Subwoofer - Kicker
AMP - MTX or Eclipse

Thats my few cents worth.

 

Okay..this is a possible setup for you (btw all work was done by my trusted car-toys guy, since i cant fiberglass..or install stereos for that matter)
But Im running an Alpine head unit, jbl amp, jbl 10", jbl 6" in the door..apparently the brackets were already there from the previous owner , and jbl 4" in the dash
pixxxx


And concerning the cover rattling with the sub..I have not noticed any rattling, I mean the car is old and i get rattling as i just drive down the road. Mounting the subwoofer in the spare tire compartment is the best way to go, I have enough room in my trunk for ballasts for the traction i so dearly need in these winter months
haha
RECAP: I'm happy with the way I went and I'm pretty sure you would be too

 

That looks like a sweet setup- and pretty close to what I'm looking to do, though I'm looking more at two 8" subs like RX Drift is using. It's nice to see how it all goes into the space there, though!

It was mentioned earlier that the S4 headrest amp is (low power given the original head unit) speaker level and the S5 is pre-out level- does that mean if I can find a S5 headrest amp (anybody got one they don't want? :P ) I can just swap the two out and use the pre-out from an aftermarket deck to feed it? And likely running the output from the headrest amp through another amp to get more power out of the headrest speakers, depending on the results of some testing to see if it's necessary...

 

im still trying to figure out why you guys just dont bypass a seperate amp and hook the speakers directly to the head unit and use the fader to adjust the level coming from the headrests (i.e. rear of the car).

 

Well, I think that's what a number of people do. I am planning on ditching the mid-bass amp that in the stock setup drives the door speakers and just driving them straight from the head unit (likely hooked up to the rear channel). But the reason for keeping (or replacing with a S5 pre-amp input capable factory amp) is to maintain the functionality of the center console controls, so that either I or a passenger can adjust the level of their headrest speakers to their own comfort level or shut them off entirely. Wiring that capability into an aftermarket setup is beyond what I think I'm capable of doing. I'm probably in the minority on it, but I like that functionality of the original setup.

 

here is the setup i used,I rarely ever use the trunk and I like to see what I paid fore so I put it where it works and I can see it. The box I almost twice a big as it needs to be. There is a three-inch shirt at the bottom so the wires aren’t being crushed by the box and also there is a large air space between the two sub compartments so I could mount the amp.

_my current set up in I have relocated the amp on the backside along with another and there will be a rf cap in the old mounting place of the amp.




Before i did this i used this temp set up which worked out good except my top did rub a little, but that is am easy fix.