ATF...Water...or SeaFoam
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Is That A 4 Rotor?...
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ATF...Water...or SeaFoam
ive been doing alot of reading and i was wondering what everyone thought....what would be best to free up carbon in the housing and seals...aft.....water (rob from pineapples' idea) or seafoam....who has done all of these treatments and has experience using all what were your conclusions?
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DILLIGAF
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it depends. i like bg 44k personally, but it is pretty pricey but worth it in my opinion. the water treatment works but doesn't get all the carbon out if you drive alot in the city. as for seafoam or atf i have never tried, jus make sure you have new spark plugs because anything other than fuel will foul spark plugs fast especially atf
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I've always used seafoam, but only in piston cars. My engine is pretty new, so I haven't had to clean the carbon yet. If you do use seafoam make sure to pour it in very very little at a time if you don't want to fowl spark plugs. But personally I would go with seafoam and be very careful when using it
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mazda mario
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i have done water mixed with coolant (for lubrication purposes)to steam clean the engine if you have a "mechcanic's" mirror to see through the spark plugs holes you can tell the difference. and also i done seafoam but it was through my gas tank
#10
Is That A 4 Rotor?...
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how did the gas tank treatment work for you i was wondering if that actually works....does it make your motor run like **** through that whole tank of gas and make it smoke alot?
#11
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noob question, sorry. how do you run water through your engine to clean it? i've done seafoam on my truck, but water? do you just run it though the intake like seafoam or what?
#12
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your supposed to disconnect a vacuum hose on your intake mani....and take a bottle of water preferribly a very clean soda bottle with very clean water...and have a buddy keep the rpm's above 4 grand...dont suck the whole bottle up in one shot...take about 3-4 breaks in between and make sure your buddy doesnt over rev while you take the water away from the vacuum line....if you notice that your cat and exhaust are getting really hot and red back off for about 1 minute and then proceed as normal...this is all to my knowledge im not held responsible if you mess **** up...this works to steam clean the inside of your motor...if i forgot something someone please correct me or add on
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i use it to clean my injectors basicly but didnt feel a difference
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ive also herd that you can take out the leading spark plugs and pour a small amount of seafoam into each rotor housing crank it by hand repeating until all rotor faces are coated and leave for 24 hours (buy new plugs b4 u do this) and after 24 hours get in crank it over and drive for about 20 minutes hitting redline 4-5 times and change plugs and oil
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ah, alright. i just poured a little seafoam directly into my TB on my V6 and kept the idle up with the butterfly. thanks. just my opinion i'd stick with water, i duno what ATF is, and i wouldn't put seafoam in a rotary. i'd be afraid to mess up my sparks. but atleast with water you can take them out, crank till the water is out and put them back in and hopefully it should work.
but thats just my 2 cents
but thats just my 2 cents
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ive also herd that you can take out the leading spark plugs and pour a small amount of seafoam into each rotor housing crank it by hand repeating until all rotor faces are coated and leave for 24 hours (buy new plugs b4 u do this) and after 24 hours get in crank it over and drive for about 20 minutes hitting redline 4-5 times and change plugs and oil
#20
Water works well, and I'm assuming you know how to go about using this to break the carbon loose.
I've used Seafoam in a few different piston engines, but never in a rotary.
I usually go about it by disconnecting a vaccuum and drawing the fluid in to the engine while it's running (at idle speed). Let it sit for about 20 minutes and start it back up.
...as well, in all the reading, and teaching that I've been part of; the best way to combat carbon build up in an engine is the occasional high RPM/red line pull.
If I was you, and the car is running fine (you only want to do this to say/know that you have), I would - at most, add some fuel treatment and continue to drive the car normally with the occasional high RPM pull.
I've used Seafoam in a few different piston engines, but never in a rotary.
I usually go about it by disconnecting a vaccuum and drawing the fluid in to the engine while it's running (at idle speed). Let it sit for about 20 minutes and start it back up.
...as well, in all the reading, and teaching that I've been part of; the best way to combat carbon build up in an engine is the occasional high RPM/red line pull.
If I was you, and the car is running fine (you only want to do this to say/know that you have), I would - at most, add some fuel treatment and continue to drive the car normally with the occasional high RPM pull.
Last edited by Mo_Jo_Jo; 01-21-09 at 09:28 PM.
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Hehe, is it bad if I give a few redlines on the highway every night going to get coffee with the missus? P.s. she hates my car for throwing fireballs, afraid it'll catch one day while we're cruising lol. That's why she bought me an extinguisher for christmas lmao
#22
I drive my car(s) hard (with the exception of the daily - that needs the best MPG), but I also go great lengths to properly maintain them... and worst case scenario, if it breaks I have the tools to fix it and I'm prepared to do so.
...I have to refference to the 'Italian Tune-Up' here.
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so nobody has a good picture of which vac nipples to hook the lines to feed water on an S5 NA?
I did it last night but I only got the front rotor I believe. I used the nipple right by the vacuum rack.
I did it last night but I only got the front rotor I believe. I used the nipple right by the vacuum rack.
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This thread is a trainwreck. So much misinformation I don't know where to start.
As for ATF: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm
Carbon buildup is a natural byproduct of burning a hydrocarbon fuel. It's going to happen. If you start putting chemicals down the engine to loosen it up, you risk causing chunks of hard carbon to come out of their resting places and get gouged between the rotors/apex seals and housings. Carbon is a very hard material. When in conflict with an apex seal, carbon can easily win.
Thus, I don't every recommend any of these "tricks" on a well running engine. If you have something with stuck seals, then by all means pour whatever you want into it. ATF, MMO, diesel, fermented cat ****, whatever.
However if you want to unstick seals properly, then pull the exhaust manifold and use a spray carburetor cleaner directly on the seals. Because guess what? Carb cleaner is designed to dissolve carbon. And since you can see the seals, you can then clean out all the gunk before rotating the engine and going to the next seal.
As for ATF: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm
Carbon buildup is a natural byproduct of burning a hydrocarbon fuel. It's going to happen. If you start putting chemicals down the engine to loosen it up, you risk causing chunks of hard carbon to come out of their resting places and get gouged between the rotors/apex seals and housings. Carbon is a very hard material. When in conflict with an apex seal, carbon can easily win.
Thus, I don't every recommend any of these "tricks" on a well running engine. If you have something with stuck seals, then by all means pour whatever you want into it. ATF, MMO, diesel, fermented cat ****, whatever.
However if you want to unstick seals properly, then pull the exhaust manifold and use a spray carburetor cleaner directly on the seals. Because guess what? Carb cleaner is designed to dissolve carbon. And since you can see the seals, you can then clean out all the gunk before rotating the engine and going to the next seal.